How should I strap things down in my new cargo trailer?
| Posted in Tools for Home Building on
We are in the process of buying a 7’x14′ cargo trailer with a ramp and side door. The inside will be paneled.
Does anyone have a trailer that they use with “E-channel” for tying cargo down? I’d like to hear your thoughts on what you use it for, how high off the floor it should be, etc…
We will be hauling a pressure washer, texture sprayer, shop vac., various hand tools – mostly grinders, and of course the usual hand tools and small replacement parts. In addition there will be 50# sacks of cement admixture and 60-70# 5-gallon buckets of sealers, etc…
Cliff.
Replies
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Hey Cliff,
I've got a 7x14 wells cargo that I can't imagine being without. I'm not familiar with the "e channel". I've tried lots of configurations over the 6 years I've had it. On one wall I screwed in D-rings on every stud at about 16 inches high to strap in compressors, saws, vacs, etc. ON the other side I bought those basic steel shelving sets you see everywhere but installed the brackets upside down and rippped a little off the shelves to fit. The bracket then becomes a guard to keep stuff on the shelves. This ONLY works for light items. The shelves full of nails and stuff get put in regular and a 1x4 screwed to keep stuff in. Buy lots of black bungies to run accross shelves to. If you have employees, label everythings place or it will quickly turn into a disaster!
Eric
*Eric,Thanks for the ideas.The "E-channel" goes by the names of "E-track" and "Cargo Channel" also - depends where you buy it. It's a stamped metal shallow "U" with flanges (can't think of another way to describe it) about 10' x 5" with rectangular slots spaced every couple of inches into which straps and rope tie-offs can be locked or clipped into position with a quick release metal clip - easily adjustable. The track screws into the studs and has additional holes to screw into the wood paneling, if need be. They also make a vertical E-track too, but it's only about 3.5" wide. It looks as if they have clips that hold 2x4's or 2x6's, vertically adjustable - don't know that I need that for anything. It looks like a neat system to hold equipment in place. In the catalog that I'm looking at, a 10' track runs $34 - not cheap, but not prohibitively expensive either.I'm glad to hear how far up you have your D-rings, because the only installation that I had seen to-date with E-track was only 12" off the floor - it seemed low to me.I was wondering about that metal shelving - had a similar thought about turning the shelves upside down - glad to hear that it works for light stuff - got lots of that.Like the bungie idea too.I found a 7x14' with a ramp - took a lot of patience, but I figured the ramp would be easier to wheel stuff out on than having to lift 50 - 200# several times each day - that wears thin. Come to think of it, it wears even thinner in and out of a pickup truck. I'm looking forward to an "easier" go of it.Many thanks,Cliff.
*cliff... i'm thinkin that a trailer will be my next big thing... and the 7x14 sounds about right.. what's the head room ?is it a tandem.. are the wheels outside the box?what did you pay for that ?is it new ? what else should i know ?
*I have a 6' x 14' single axle cargo trailer that can haul 1 ton. I installed e track at about 30" off the floor so that I can strap sheets of plywood to it. This seems to work good for anything I have to haul. I just use the trailer for hauling materials and tools to the job site. I don't have it full of shelving or tools on a regular basis. Works good. Use it a lot more than I thought I ever would.
*Mike, I have a 5' x 8' single axle trailer that only has about 5' of head room inside. I can tell you that unless you have midgets working on your crew, you don't want one that short. I am planning to buy another trailer in the next 6-8 months. These are some things I will be looking for. They might be helpful for you. Tandem axles - pulls better, seems to track straighter going down the road. Higher load capacity. Electric Brakes - Bad feeling to have all your tools and equipment try to keep pushing you forward when you want to STOP. Ramp door on Back - Easier getting table saws, compressors, power washers, etc in and out. 6' Min. Door Height - Self explanatory, have it or issue hardhats or hire midgets Ability to install Ladder Rack - Make sure you can bolt a ladder rack in to the wall studs and keep the bolts sealed. It is nice to be able to drop the trailer at a jobsite and have all the tools inside and the ladders on top ready to go and frees up your truck for picking up supplies. Also buy the largest size you can easily park on most of your jobsites. It doesn't do much good to have all your tools organized and in one spot if you have to park 2 blocks from your jobsite because you don't have room for the trailer. Depending on the area, install a decent alarm system.
*Mike,I bought a used cargo trailer - get it delivered tomorrow actually. It took awhile for the right one to come up for sale - it's about 1 1/2 years old, aluminum skin (no rust!) - some trailers have a reputation for their steel skins rusting around here - no names, but supplied upon demand, so I waited and waited and waited until this one came along.I'm 6'-3"+ so I have a head-banger problem, but this trailer is 6'-6" so I'm OK. 6' height is standard on 12' and up. The wheels are outside the cargo space, tandem axels. Don't go with a single axel - they don't pull as nicely. Been there, done that, ain't going back for seconds! There is also some sort of electric safety brake device on it. The first owner put vinyl tile down on the floor. He also scraped up the roof, so I'll be replacing some of those panels.Ramps can be a real pain. Most have a simple small hand crank to raise and lower the ramp. Didn't want that. Fortunately this trailer has a spring assisted ramp - just like the kind used on garage doors. You can open and close it with one finger - two is easier though.I am also puting my company name, what we do and our phone numbers on the "driver's side" in BIG BOLD letters and 3 colors across the full length of the trailer, top to bottom - red, black and blue. The ramp will have "DECORATIVE CONCRETE" in blue letters across the top. Our telephone numbers in bold black in the middle and "WATERPROOFING" on the bottom in red. The passenger side will take a little longer. I'm planning on having some job photo decals made up of the various types of work that we do with a brief printed description under each one. Our company name and phone numbers will be in the top right corner, readable, but not overly large. Graphics will be the name of the game on that side. It's going to be pricey up front (2'x2'=$200+ for each pic.), but in my opinion it's the cheapest advertising that I can get. The trailer will be on every job site. We have several gated communities around here (houses from $150,000 to $3,000,000 in one). We can't put a company sign on the job site, but we can park our trailer on the job site for the duration of each job - get the picture? The contract that we got yesterday - decorative resurfacing of the concrete entry walkway to a gated community clubhouse - they won't let me put up a 2'x2' job site sign, but they will let me park my trailer right in front of the clubhouse for the length of the job. OK. My standard contract has in it that they agree to supply me with a suitable supply of fresh water, electricity and a convenient parking space for my trailer!!!I also looked at other sizes of trailers. 6' wide seemed too narrow. 8' wide was nice, but not readily available and as easy to handle on some job sites. 7' wide is usually a special order, but if you're going new or can wait for a used one to come up for sale it seemed ideal, at least to me.As far as length and axel ratings go, I needed something right away that I could haul about 3,000# of equipment and materials in. My current hitch has a rating of 5,000# - that kind of pointed to a 14' or smaller trailer - 14 footers seem to weigh 1,850-2,000#. I will need to haul up to 6,500# (trailer weight included) somewhere down the road, so a tandem axel with 3,500# rating on each axel seemed about right. 5,000# axels are an option on 14 footers, but usually standard on 16 footers. When one goes to a 16' trailer, one is talking about needing a bigger horse up front to haul it. That expense scarred me off. That left either a 12' or 14' in a 7' or 8' width, tandem axel, ramp and side door for me to look for. Actually, when I thought about it I quickly dismissed the 12' trailer because I wanted to have a space up front for a clothes rack to hold several changes of clothing so that we can keep reasonably comfortable in the heat of the summer here in Texas, and put in a curtain and port-a-potty. We've come across some sites where "convenience" facilities were lacking or in such disgusting condition that I wouldn't let my dog go in. One homeowner wouldn't let us use their restroom and complained when my men drank water out of their hose. So I figured that I'd bring my own facilities along when I could - now is the time. I'll also have an ice chest strapped in for keeping drinks cold.What did I pay? I paid off the guy's note - $3,181. He didn't want to go that route (wanted substantially more), I didn't have anymore, and no one else answered his ad., so after waiting and dickering for about 6 weeks or so - I hope that I can say that I lucked out. I priced a new one and it was right around $5,000.Whew! This has gotten into more than I had anticipated, but I'm waiting for a phone call and a delivery, so no damage. I hope that this has helped you. It took me about 5 months to find out what I really wanted and needed and could afford - if this cuts that time down for anyone, then I will have done my good deed for today.Good luck!Cliff.
*Just the thoughts of a DIY'er, we've got a lot of use out of a stock (horse)trailer, 18'- 2 axle 7,000 lb. rating, good for a lot more than those smelly animals. 7" wide, low to the ground, big doorway. The openings can be covered with a little cobbling but maybe not theftproof but fairly weathertight. This trailer has more miles carrying furniture and construction material than it does with animals. Maybe not for big professional operations but very easy to find used bargains and modify. Most of the time the running gear has seen very few miles.
*Be sure to add some kind off anti-slip to the ramps. Before I got my enclosed trailer I had a "landscape" trailer with a ramp in back. My guys and I busted our butts so many times when it was raining! That was the main reason for not getting a ramp on my enclosed. The other draw back with the ramp is security during the day. It takes more effort to raise and lower a ramp then to open a couple of swinging doors so I would think the tendency would be to leave the ramp down and accessible. We rarely lock the rear or side doors during the day but keeping them closed limits the possiblilty of the occasional walk by thief and limits people scoping out what you have. Be sure to get insurance for the trailer and the contents!! It's kind of scary knowing a thief could get 75% of my tools in a brief moment but the convenience far outweighs the fear!
*Lefty,We tried to go that route. This is cattle and horse county. The horse trailers retain their value better than the cargo trailers do, so it wasn't possible to get as good pricing. I noticed what you mentioned though about them being low - very nice. Many of them here have a separate change room in front too.Cliff.
*Good idea about the nonskid material on the ramp. Thanks. Ours has a spring assist for opening and closing - 2 fingers does it real easy!Cliff.
*Mike Usually trailers are square in cross-section. 6'wide-6'tall, 7' wide- 7' tall etc.We have a trailermate and they offer an extra head room option so you can stand straight up in a 6' trailer. Definitely go for the 7x14, the 6x12 I use is jammed full when I get all my assorted equipment in there. Alos get some ladder racks Preferably 3 and have them put the middle one closer to one end so you can get a six foot ladder on it. Ladders eat up alot of inside space.Happy traileringMr. T. (for Towin' tools);)
*Cliff, I'm in the market for a trailer as well, and have been looking for a couple of years for the right buy. With that new a trailer, with those features, sounds to me like you paid a fair price and maybe got a deal. The only difference in what I'm looking for is I want swinging doors. I figure I'll carry a couple of planks, or a lightweight aluminum ramp, for use with the heavy stuff. I often work where parking space is at a premium and wouldn't have the room or the peace of mind to leave a ramp down all day. Also I don't want a side door--less room for stuff!Another feature I'm looking for is a skylight, or I'll add my own. Hard to see what you're looking for up front with no natural light.
*Mike,I've been thinking about a ladder rack. I haven't checked it out yet, but how long an extension ladder can one get in a 14' long cargo trailer? What kind of ladder "rack" are you using? Are you referring to just a pair of large squared off hooks on the wall or what? Where do you have the rack(s) placed in your trailer?Cliff.
*Mike,Mine has a skylight. I just did't mention it. It is an excellent feature. I'm even considering a second. The biggest problem that I see is that the skylights that the trailer industry use are flimsy (cheapos, unless you're paying for it). I've been looking at some marine skylights. They seem considerably more well built - cost more too, but I can do my own installation.Cliff.
*I think the skylight concept becomes a maintenance issue. Think about all the skylights we've repaired over the years in houses and now imagine those houses moved and shifted all the time. I solved the light problem by simply adding lights! Trailers of this size come with batteries for brake away brakes and it's easy to wire in low voltage lights with a switch at the back and at the side door.I love having a side door. There are times I cuss not having that wall space but when the back of the trailer is overflowing with stuff you toss in at the end of a long day, it's great to be able to get stuff from up front without crawling over it all. I swear everytime I spent a day reorganizing the trailer that I'll stop piling stuff at the back but it never seems to happen.Regarding the ladder racks, I agree 100% to have three bars accross the top sized to fit a six ft ladder. We keep a four foot ladder on the back swinging door to easily strap down and load/unload ladders. As far as length of ladders, we normally carry a 40ft one with no problem. The racks are also great for carrying long pieces of trim. The smoothest set up I've seen was an entire platform with a side ladder built on top of the trailer. It was used as scaffolding in gas station work but what a great concept. Easy access to ladders, trim, long pieces of pipe and even lumber. Someday...
*Just a thought on the leaking skylights. I've gone the boat route and use what many of the marine guys are using - polyurethane calk. Most trailer manufacturers use silicone - not the best route to go as it does deteriorate, separate and leak.For those of you having difficulty locating polyurethane calk - I've found Jamestown Distributors to be an excellent source. They also have a lot of little stainless steel goodies for marine use that come in handy on land too. Cliff.
*Hey, before yopu go and buy $35 strips of e-track, check out a local(?) truck and trailer supply down in the truckyards. They've got 'em for $10-$15 per 10'. There is no equal that I've seen to e-track, ratcheting straps will hold secure almost anything quickly and custom width, once you use them for a while you'll be surprised @ the peace of mind you'll have knowing that your stuff isn't going anywhere. I had a box truck with rows at 20", 4', and the shorts that were left over at 6'-7' near the front for tall stuff.
*In past trailer yaks...posted that I have 20' Wells Cargo dual axle 11,000gvw. Shelves on end and one side. Holds lots...and you can work in it if needed. Travel no biggy because it rarely moves. near the stream,ajOh and has side door...back doors...skylights and power...and lights and mini porta potty though never used it..for emergencies only.daily work schedule and plans hang on the walls.
*Well guys, we've got the cargo trailer, put up the e-track on 12" & 30" centers, and are looking at building in some shelves. As we had some Rubbermaid Roughnecks (plastic containers with lids) and wanted to use them we are going to screw some wood cleats to the floor to keep them in place while travelling and build some shelves over them.We're still considering the ladder rack. This is something that hadn't even entered our minds initially, but it certainly has us thinking.We are going to put down some Sealoflex products on the ramp to act as an anti-skid material. We read the comment about slipping on wet ramps and appreciated it very much because the very first day on the job the ramp got wet. We exercised appropriate caution as a result. You were right. A wet ramp can be a problem when loading equipment!Thanks for all of your input. You have made a difference - for the better - and we appreciate it. Our cargo trailer is working out better than we anticipated.Cliff. JohnstonQUALITY-CRETE RESURFACINGStephenville, TX
*All you need for the ramp is sand mixed into your paint, like our tennis court paints....Enyjoy.near the stream,aj
*ordered our Car-Mate last week..7x14 dual torsion axle... 3 ladder racks.. dbl.e-track on the side door side..dbl. door rear...thanks for the info...
*I apologize for cluttering this thread with a non-contractor question.I've been in the market for an open top utility trailer that would have the same capacity as an 8' bed pickup truck and would haul about the same amount of weight.(Is it around 1-ton ?)I am planning on visiting the local trailer yard but want to do some homework first.Is there such a thing as an open trailer that can haul a 4x8 sheet flat on the floor ?Given this, would a trailer this size need to be tandem axle with electric brakes ?At the risk of getting laughed out of this thread, a (rear wheel drive) Volvo wagon will be used for pulling it.Not wanting a full sized vehicle that would not get daily use, I thought this might be an option worth considering.Thanks for any info,Alan
*sounds like a landscape trailer.. maybe 6x10...probably single axle.. go to your trailer dealer .. they'll give you the specs
*Alan, my first "truck" was an '80 Volvo wagon--tough sucker. Thule racks on top for lumber and ladders, and with the back seat folded down, I could get quite a few tools in there. Reese hitch which saw occasional use hauling trailers.I don't think you'll need tandem axles or brakes unless you plan on filling the trailer with gravel.
*Thanks, Mike Smith, for the mention of the 6x10 size and "landscape" trailer.Gives me a good start.And to Mike Maines, yes, them wagons are heavy duty mules dispite their yuppy appearance.I've gotten strange looks shoving bales of hay and loads of lumber into the back of it.But after loading several 6x6 treated posts on my Yakima rack and see it bow down I figured it's time for something better.After searching for a 1-ton, 8' bed Toyota from the late '80s and not having much luck, I thought it would be interesting to at least look into the trailer route.You think the Volvo factory hitch will not be as rugged as the Reece ?Thanks for your help,Alan
*Alan, I'm sure any heavy-duty hitch would be fine. I had heavy-duty springs and shocks put on, too.Once I loaded a PT beam, 8x10x16' rough sawn (full dimension) onto my racks. Come to think of it they were Yakimas, not Thules. Then I drove it a couple hundred miles. Sucker must have weighed 400 lbs.At some point I think the wagons stop being Yuppie and start being Hippy.Where are you located? This classifieds site from Maine may have trailers and/or Toyotas: http://www.unclehenrys.com
*Hi, Mike -I got a little nervous about damaging the rain channels when the cross bars started bowing down. Next time I do this there should be three or four cross bars to spread out the load.It was a load of 12' and 10' long 2x10 and 2x12 PT boards.I'm in southwest part of Virginia and would be reluctant to find something up in the New England area. We probably have less salt-damaged cars around here that suits my needs if I look hard enough.Interesting web site - I did check it out and thanks.I did have a 1980 265 wagon and now have a '85 745 with 270,000 miles on it and still looks new.I called a local trailer yard that sells the Leonard brand and they have a good selection of 3,000-lb rated single-axle 5x8 and 4x8 landscape/utility trailers with tilt beds or tailgate ramp that would lay flat sheet goods. Price is around $450 - $600 - not bad. I think I can get a hitch installed for around $250 - $300.But a beat up Toyota or F-150 would be better....
*Yeah, a beat up Toyota would be better...
*Hi, Mad Dog -Looked at a '83 Toyota 3/4-ton 7' bed 4WD yesterday.I thought it was going to be an 8' bed, which is what I want...Sooner or later.Alan
*Alan,I've been building houses for years with a Chevy that has a 6 foot bed.In many cases, it would have been slightly more convenient to have the extra 2 feet but there are only two things that I have more trouble with that is significant: Hauling ladders and longer boards, say 16 footers.But I usually just buy some shorter boards and put them under the longer ones, strap it all down, no problem. Same trick works for ladders.I'd buy the 7 foot bed and forget about the trailer unless you really need it a lot for other stuff.I'd much rather have an old Toyota with a 7 foot box than any ford with an 8 footer. Or even a f*rd with a trailer!
*Mike-The Volvo factory hitch is rated at something like 3300 lbs. Used to have one on my previous Volvos. Just couldn't get by w/o a truck any more. The Volvo 200 or 700 series are great choices as trailer tow rigs as the brakes and frames are seriously over engineered. I've hauled 4000 lbs with one (not very fast... but) and used to subscribe to a Volvo enthusiast mailing list that included one guy in the Colorado mountains that hauled a one horse trailer (with horse) behind his 240 without incident. They make a pretty fair DIY or light use rig.Mike
*As a former bike shop manager, I have extensive use with Yakima roofracks and will say they will hold up well beyond the raingutters of any vehicle.Also, having lifelong experience in carpentry (pro,partime and once again pro) I just bought my first trailer. I specialize in small remodels and drive a full size pickup, so materials can be hauled in the truck. I have very little space to park at my house and find the same thing at jobsites. This does not include stopping buy suppliers, lumberyards and the grocerystore on the way home. I found that that a 9X5 suits me well. The trailer I bought was used and worth less than half a new version (I was quoted $2000+ for a Haulmark).I bought a couple 5 shelve units from the local yard to put down one side and left the other side open for 8ft materials. I use a load bar for weird stuf, or on normal days just cinch it down on top of the seam between the two shelving units and they don't move. Taking the cue of a guy I work with I got clear storage bins for general categories. He went apesh.. and got a bin for every possible thing so I held off and just did a few to start.Starting out I can say, buy something you think fits, use it THEN customize your setup! After using both, I like a door vs. a ramp do to the shady nature of some of the areas I work in. (This was mentioned before). I am adding a ladder Rack to the top. I also have found that you need your most frequently used tools in the back or close to a side door. DUH!!!
*tk, how many bikes does it take to max out the weight on a Yakima? Just kidding. I like your idea of a 9x5, I had assumed that would be too small. My current project is up a long, steep driveway, though, and I don't think my 6cyl Dakota would be able to push a big fully-loaded trailer up it. How tall is the 9x5 inside? Can you stand upright? Did you get brakes on it? What is a loadbar?Thinkin' about trailers again....
*Mike, my 9x5 is about 5'6" high inside. Not enough to stand tall but works better than you think. I am 5'9" and am comfortable working in it in a pinch. You can order taller trailers if you want to spend the money. Last night I saw a 9x5 with 7 foot ceilings!Mine does not have brakes as I am using it mainly for secure tool storage. A loadbar is one of those telescoping cargo retention thingies! You know what truckers use to keep freight from shifting? I have one and will buy another, they are handy. With one, I dont even worry about sheets of drywall or plywood shifting, I just sandwhich the materials between the wall on one side and extend the loadbar over to the other side of the trailer. I have been working out a partners trailer for a few months and got mine over the holidays. I can't say enough about how handy it is. The only drawback is running errands around town. You have to get creative in parking with it on, a buddy got parked in by a couple of soccer moms with his dump trailer during a lunch stop!
*I bought my trailer last November. Ive been using it without shelving or built ins of any kind, partly because weve been so busy, and partly because I keep thinking of a better design. Can any of you guys post some pix of how you did it so I can decide what to do? Its 7X12 full head height dual axel outside the trailer. Thanks BD
*our trailer is in... gave him a check today for the title... tomorrow Registry.. thursday hitch & brake controls... then drive it away..thanks to you guys i ordered it with 3 ladder racks and double e-track on the door side...Logo signs on Friday , i think.... probably a couple months before it gets organized
*Hoo-wee that's purdy Mike. Yesterday I rented a 6x12 from U-haul and was surprised how easily my Dakota pulled it. Watch out for those wheels that stick out, though. I almost had a couple of close calls. Also watch out with the brake controls--my brother and I took his 18' landscape trailer up to northern Maine for a snomobile trip last weekend. Braking on an icy section of road we looked out to see the trailer trying to pass us! He knocked the brakes down a few notches and no more problems.
*good advice mike... i'll be extra careful and pull back on the throttle too
*Mike,I know that you've posted what you drive before, but what are you pulling that trailer with? It looks as if you have a 1/2 ton. If so, is it doing okay?Jon
*jon.. it's a'91 f150... with the trailer package...i'll let you know how it tows after i tow it...i don't anticipate any problem though... but time will tell..the dealer has a halfton dodge.. said it towed like a dream from Connecticut.. but then , what would he say ?i've had some great loads on this truck, like a yard & half of gravel, never had it down on it's springs so let's keep our fingers crossed (? )
*Hey Mike - Congrats! I've got a 7x14 as well and love it. Per Jon's comment - Be Careful. It's easy to overload the truck quickly but not see any deflection in the springs. The weight on a tandem trailer sits on itself, not the truck. As you keep adding "stuff" to the trailer - periodically stop by a truck stop with drive on scales and weigh just the trailer. Check what your trucks rated for and make sure they coincide (sp?). Its amazing how quickly boxes of nails, buckets of primer and mud and some tools will add up.Eric
*Looks good Mike. How much was it, if you don't mind me asking? I've been looking for a while, bought the Alumapoles instead. Maybe should have bought the trailer...Me, I wouldn't worry about overloading it. I'd load it up, drive carefully and park it. Haul it out when job is done.I pull a 32 foot travel trailer with a half ton chevy. I'm sure that 14 foot utility trailer won't come close to weighing that much. Fully loaded or not.Locked and loaded,MD
*dawg... picked it up this am and drove it to my sign painter.. towed just swell. and my mirrors were just fine.. the electric brake control is fantastic...with the 3 ladder racks, the e-track, and the rear drop-down jack stands it was $4100...plus the hitch and electric brake package cost me $520..the signs will be another $370.. so figger $5K..i thought i was going to do this for about $3k, but that was for used and there wasn't anything out there..
*I'd be carfull leaving it loaded up on job sights. A guy I used to work for had all his tools stolen from his 6x10 three different times. They are easier to break into than you might think. I have a 5x8 now over loaded most of the time, it's great but, I' am always nervous having that many tools in one place.
*matthew..in 27 years we've lost 2 sheets of plywood and a large pair of bolt-cutters.. the plywood came back by the kid's dad.. and the police dropped the bolt cutters off after they found them at a break-in..here's the new rig with the signs.. tows nice.. now someday we gotta get organized...
*Looks good Mike! A little bigger than my operation. Were the ladder racks on it or did you build them?
*Nice, Mike! Now ya need a nice new SuperDuty to tow it around. ;o)
*tk.. the racks were factory for an upcharge..jc.. driving a half-ton '91 is the reason i can afford other toys....a SuperDuty, huh ? hmmmmmm
*That is a nice looken trailer Mike. I wasn't trying to rain on your parade, just a word of caution. I guess you know your area better than I would.
*Mike what made you go with the swing open doors instead of the flip down type that you could also use as a ramp when it comes time to pickup something with a handtruck? Just curious, I maybe getting the same setup very soon and was wondering if there was a specifis reason.Thanks Chris
*Chris, I also went with the swinging door rather than a ramp. My reasons were for ease of security when its parked in front some house for a remodel. I can swing the door shut quickly to keep prying eyes out! Also, someone else mentioned being able to have room to operate the door where a ramp wouldn't work, I found this is important behind my little workshop where it would stick out into the ally if I had a ramp! In the end, you need to do some soul searching and look at you uses. If a guy was doing a bigger trailor I might do a ramp in back and a swinging door on the side. Best of both worlds if you will.As for buying a new truck, I hate to say it but I got my trailer at the first of the year and am doing a newer truck already! I thought I could make my old workhorse last another year (69 Chevy). Instead everthing that could go wrong this week, did. Fortunately I am reaping the benefits of a Super Duty. No I did not buy one, a family member did and I am buying his 2000 Ranger. (I can get away with the little rig, 'cause my partner has a 1ton Dodge for the real work!)
*matthew.. no...your caution was well received.. and if i'm working out of town.. i'll think 2x about leaving it... just that things are a little different here..also have $10K contents , both on site & in transit... chris.. after listening to these guys , i switched from ramp to swing doors for all the reasons mentioned.. and i'm glad i did...i can ramp up easy.... but the swing doors are real convenient.. and the height above ground is real low......
*Nice lookin' rig Mike, enjoy! After listening to the rest of you here, I guess my next trailer will have the swinging doors on the back instead of the ramp I thought I wanted.
*Why not build a fold-down ramp yourself ? Folded up, it would cover the rear doors, locking in place, and adding extra security, both in transit, and while sitting there on the jobsite overnight.
*hey thats a pretty damn smart idea