Replies

1. 
   FastEddie | Mar 30, 2009 08:51pm | #1

   What is the underlayment?  If it's a homosote-type product laid over the subfloor, wouldn't you want to pull it up anyway? 

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 30, 2009 09:55pm | #2

   Likely mdf or something similiar. 

1. 
   FastEddie | Mar 31, 2009 03:37am | #7

   if it's not plywood or advantech-type osb, it should be removed before nailing down the wood.  That might solve your height issue at the top of the stairs. "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 31, 2009 02:47am | #3

   selfless bump

    

3. 
   Pelipeth | Mar 31, 2009 03:16am | #4

   Is the space lived in? Ripping everything out will surely up the $$$$. I'd try just the hall way rip and go with "real"saddles for transitions to the bed and baths. 5" base upstairs would indicate a higher end unit, no. That subfloor is probably captured by bottom plates also, Not a fun job.

4. 
   calvin | Mar 31, 2009 03:16am | #5

   You've seen it and I ain't.

   So with that in mind.  You should be able to go over with the wood if it's not particle board underlay-you mention MDO, never have seen that here.  Staple down hardwood, I'd remove the pb if that's what it is.  You'd have to make the decision on MDO, tho I think about the same holding power for the fastener.

   At the stair/hall, I agree whole heartedly-nice transition to the nosing would be my preference-thickness of wood and that nosing projection above the subfloor would make the decision for me.

   If money seems to be the object, you could save by leaving underlay in the BR's if you are confident of fastener holding power.

   That base is pretty tall so I don't think I'd mind shoe on it at all even if it was placed on the floor b/4 carpet.  If there's much detail in it-you might wanna move it up (which means probably new).

   Like I said, send me a plane ticket and I'll give you my expertise (?) in person..............

   Nice job, hope you get it.

   A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   EricPaulson | Mar 31, 2009 03:28am | #6

   Spoke to a flooring guy and that was pretty much his take. Only time I did not use ply for UL was on a new two family I built bake in '95-96. Lumber yard said it was mdf. I think it was. All I remember was humbing close to fifty sheets of something really heavy up to the second floor.

   Paid a guy to install it.

   I'll have to look in to it more to see what is there. I doubt it is trapped by the partitions though.

   The base is 5 1/4". It mimicks 1x6 with a neck on top. Plenty of room to loose. If it looks easy I may just rip it all up. Definitely the hall though.

   Love to have you come. Losta links around here. bring you saddle shoes!

     

1. 
   calvin | Mar 31, 2009 04:07am | #8

   I know alot of the easterners shy away from shoemld, but I think it adds quite alot to the shape and form of base.  That it evens up "movement'' in a subfloor (closes up gaps) easily is no deal breaker-there's reason behind this madness.  So in that measure, I like the way it looks.

   What I don't care for is stained shoe and painted base.

   Tomorrow nite Pistons v. Cavs in Cleveland, a multi dimensional visual extravaganza.  Wed, 3man league starts!  Man, what a couple days in the beginning of Spring.

   And to start it all off-Mike Roop, his 6yo son and father come up to try and take some walleye from our river.

   Don't worry, I'll fit in work there somewhere.

   Best of luck!A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/