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Carport close in

carguy350 | Posted in Construction Techniques on December 3, 2006 11:31am

Hello Everyone..it’s been a long time..

I’ve hired a contractor to close in my carport. I’ll point out that i’m fully capable of doing this job but I have my own business to attend to..no time. So I hired a contractor, that I know, maybe a bit too well, so I have my eyes open to every detail and things are getting done the way I want it done. So far so good.

I need some answers to a few questions so I can atleast look like I know what I’m talking about. First off, a few details.

House is a 37 year old basement entry style with the bedrooms, kitchen, washroom, and living room upstairs on the second floor. (Can’t say I’m very fond of this layout. )Anyways, one end of the house has a carport under 2 bedrooms. We are converting it into a music studio. So the questions are..

(1)  This “room”  is  fully above ground  with a concrete slab as a floor and it’s in very good shape..no cracks or water intrusion. I’ve revisited FHB #169 feb 2005 article , the  no mold, stay dry basement. As the article suggests, do sheets of EPS foam work well under the subfloor ? I’m afraid if it trapping moisture. We are looking for warmth. I’ve done a basement reno , for myself, with no vapour barrier and excellent results, but this room will need one..correct?

(2) the front of the to-be-closed-in carport will need a small cement foundation for the front wall to be built up onto. I’ve indicated I want the concrete “driveway” cut and trenched out to have the forms fit. How deep should I be going down and will I need rebar within?

(3) The bedroom above that front wall  protrudes out about a foot and a half past where the new wall will tie in the existing 2nd floor joists ( which run parallel to the wall). It just so happens that the heating duct for that upper bedroom will be directly under the new wall. How do I insulate the front section so I’m not pumping hot air to the outdoors? How do I seal and finish the underside of the overhang? My experience is interior elements not the exterior envelope. We get a lot of rain here in BC and I’m not about to invite the water inside.

(4) Any suggestons on the back wall..as it will be flush with the upper floor wall

Well I think that’s enough for now. I await the wisdom of the forum..

Cheers

Gerald Lauze

Owner/ Artist

www.imperium-design.com

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Replies

  1. rez | Dec 13, 2006 09:02pm | #1

    Greetings Gerald,

    This post, in response to your question, will bump the thread through the 'recent discussion' listing again.

    Perhaps it will catch someone's attention that can help you with advice.

    Cheers

     

     
    damn, am I fat!

  2. User avater
    xxPaulCPxx | Dec 13, 2006 10:44pm | #2

    As to #2, why would you want to create a mudsill/foundation element where none is needed?  There are no load bearing concerns here, so you are just creating a partition wall to the outside.  I'm also thinking that completely converting it like that will screw the next owner (you weren't planning on a Viking funeral with your house as the boat were you?) who may want to convert it back to a nice heated garage/indoor-outdoor room.

    If you want the concrete sill to match the rest, just drill some holes along the rim path and set some threaded rod down with epoxy.  Make a form to match the existing, tap the threads above that foem line, and pour yourself a mudsill.  After it is dry, you can bolt your bottom plate down to your new mudsill and then build as normal - with alot less waste in materials, time, and effort.

    Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA

    Also a CRX fanatic!

    1. carguy350 | Dec 14, 2006 12:51am | #4

      Oh this will never see the light as a carport again. Not being completely familair with Cypress CA, I'll dare to say we get more rain up here in BC. The next owner of this house can build a garage out back. The pad was cut, trenched to hardpan (18", which is also below our coded frost line ) ..and poured, in which I helped shovel it in. Walls are up as is the plywood sheathing.Thanks for the info, guys. It's nice to get confirmationCheers,GeraldGerald Lauze

      Owner/ Artist

      Imperium Design

  3. andy_engel | Dec 13, 2006 11:53pm | #3

    The point to using EPS foam is that unlike the more commonly available XPS foam, EPS allows some moisture migration, and hence, drying.

    Andy

    "Never try to teach a pig to sing. It wastes your time and annoys the pig." Robert A. Heinlein (or maybe Mark Twain)

    "Get off your dead #### and on your dying feet." Mom

    "Everything not forbidden is compulsory." T.H. White, The Book of Merlin

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