Wondering how many of you think this might fly.
I have two brand new Bonneville wood angle bay casement window units.
For reasons I’d rather not elaborate on at this time. I may need to raise or attemt to eliminate the location of the operators at the bottom of the windows.
Upon close inspection of these units, I have determined that the windows are quite symetrical top to bottom. So, I am wondering if you thing mounting the operators on the tops of the sashes would fly. I cannot come up with any reason why it wouldn’t work.
In case you are wondering how in the world one would reach these comfortably, these angle bays are in a kitchen on the other side of a 25 1/2” countertop. Truth makes an adjustable pole similiar to a skylite pole opener.
They also sell a motorized remote control opener that fits over the operator in place of the handles.
Whaddya think?
Thanks,
Eric
Replies
Or you just relocating the operator or wanting to flip the window upside down?
In either case I would look at this from the outside and see where the frame is routed for the operator arm and how any water that gets in might drain.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Just wish to relocate the operator.
The widows have no rout and seem to bee indentical top from bottom. The pivot mechanism is also identical.
Seems I should be able to put the operator on the top.
Hopefully a few more folks will see this.
Thanks Bill. Take a look at the pics if you will.
View Image
[email protected]
Edited 4/28/2007 2:21 pm ET by EricPaulson
Edited 4/28/2007 2:22 pm ET by EricPaulson
I was thinking of ones built in.For something like that I don't see why not.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thanks.
Now, some insight. We need to get granite on the "seat". It's 1 1/4" or there about.
We only have 1/2" under the operators. I can raise the whole thing up 1/2", that''l give us an inch.
Going to see if we can have the stone milled down to one inch.
Otherwise option 2.
Option 3 is very ugly.
Thanks,
Eric[email protected]
The window frame and sash would be designed to drain downward and outward. By turning it upside-down you will likely make sections want to drain inward.If it's feasible to simply move the operators, though, that should not seriously affect drainage. But you need to consider the connection from operator to sash. Inverting the sashes to make connections simpler may cause a drainage problem.
Edited 4/28/2007 2:40 pm by DanH
I am doing nothing to the sash other than removing the operator from the bottom and reinstalling it at the top.[email protected]
A Sunday nite bump.....................anyone else have something to offer?[email protected]
Are you moving the operator up so the granite will fit in or because the crank handle hits as you rotate? If the later, Truth makes a T handle that will solve that problem. If your moving it up because of the thickness of the granite, you'll void the warranty for sure. Window companies are all over that. If you raise the operator and the operator post that attachs to the sash equal amounts you will be Ok.
Are you moving the operator up so the granite will fit in or because the crank handle hits as you rotate?
A little of each actually, and your thought may add yet another bit of wiggle to the solution.
The Granite is around 1 1/4" thick and will not fit inder the operators in addittion to interference at the window crank. That is why I am thinking of moving them up and putting them on remote control moter operators.
Thanks for your point.[email protected]
is a interior screen a concern?? remember you probably have a sill stop and a head stop. Both should have a screen channel (plow in wood screen sets in) If you move the operator to the top you'll have to reverse those stops. A remote control operator is going to be bigger and probably require a different silll stop (IMO)
More things to consider.
I have a good list now.
Thanks,
Eric[email protected]
Looking at the photos, these appear to be merely surface-mounted openers and are not enclosed in the window trim, as some are. I see no problem with switching them, assuming you have an even number to do. (You'll have to swap left for right if you move them to the top.)
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
(You'll have to swap left for right if you move them to the top.)
Good point; something I overlokked.
These are four window bays so I'm in luck as far as that is concerned.
Thanks.[email protected]
You can mount the roto gear at the top if you like. There will be holes left in the sash that you will see when it is open. If you choose to raise it by even a fraction you may void the warranty. The problem is that the glass goes at least 3/8" beyond what you can see into the sash frame. The screw may hit the glass.
"May the forces of evil be confused on the way to your house." -George Carlin
Warrantee is not an issue at this point.
View Image
The two small holes left from raising the pivot point would be covered (as would the entire crank assembly) much as they were before by a trim piece that I removed. You can see the shadow line in this pic to the right. And the screws are short enough and there is plenty of meat on the sash.
Thanks for makeing those points though.
Eric[email protected]
<<For reasons I'd rather not elaborate on at this time. >>
Yep. Put those windows in perfect as can be but my measurements didn't take into account the thickness of the new countertops.<G>
Yep. Put those windows in perfect as can be but my measurements didn't take into account the thickness of the new countertops.<G>
Been there done that? How did you handle the correction?
Or are you just poking me in the eye?
Thank God it wasn't me who spec'd the windows. This falls squarely on the man in charge![email protected]
Excuse me for being dumb...
Why is the granite 1 1/4" thick? I thought it came in either 2 cm or 3 cm thickness? Is it doubled up? Can a thinner piece be used since the base appears solid enuff as it is?
3cm= 1 1/8" approx.
That's what we use on our countertops.
On one widow it must meet the bakesplash of a 10' long custom SS top with sink, so this side is going to be a problem and my solutions and your suggestion may all be moot for this side of the kitchen.
On the other side the Granite will over hang the front of the widow so we could use something thinner. As I stated earlier, we only have 1/2" under the operator, so the granite is just not going to fit. We discussed with the client several nice options of sculpting the granite thinner at the operator handles, or along the entire edge where it meets the windows.
At this point I believe that they are just being contrary for the sake of seeing us squirm.[email protected]
The only objection I can think of involves closing the window.
Seems like all the casements I see have the crank at the bottom which serves to pull the bottom of the window closed tight. Then the lock towards the top of the window pulls the top of the window closed tight.
If the crank is at the top, then how is the bottom of the window going to get pulled in tight?
Rich Beckman
This signature line intentionally left blank.
I'll have to keep that in mind; I really didn't pay much attention to that.
Thanks[email protected]
Operators, schmoperators. They're a pain in the tush. For a while they work too slowly, then they break. Just toss them and go with the European style long hooks and eyes to hold the windows open, and good latches to hold them closed. Simple, reliable, and you may even be able to use the existing screw holes in the jamb for hooks. Will this be clear finish, or paint?
-- J.S.
Edited 5/1/2007 5:07 pm ET by JohnSprung
Yeah, i was thinking of the old friction, or thumbscrew telescoping thingy's that hold the windows open.
My old church had them.
Probably paint, not sure.[email protected]