The instructions for my new 5′ cast iron tub say, “Do not set back edge of tub on a ledger board. Set all 4 feet on a level floor. Shim under feet with metal shims if needed.” Seems like it would be a lot easier to set a level ledger board than to shim under all 4 “feet” of a heavy cast iron tub. And where do you get metal shims? Any advice from the pros? Thanks. Rick
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Where do you get metal shims?
For this application I would use the steel nail plates used to protect wiring and / or piping from nails.
"Nail plates" or "BOCA plates" - ~1/16" thick each, have handy holes in them already for tacking them to the floor (in your case).
Jim
Setting the lip on a ledger can cause the porcelain to pop off the corner where the horizontal flange turns down into the side of the tub when the weight of a full tub of water flexes the corner.
Thanks vor that explanation. I would not have guessed that a cast iron tub would flex at all.
Cast iron doesn't flex much,
Cast iron doesn't flex much, but porcelain even less.
It really helps to have access to the space under the tub for an install like this. Last one I did had access from an attic at the head of the tub. I got the tub in the hole and shimmed it temporarily up off the tile deck using 1/8" tile shims. I used chunks of heavy Simpson strap and chunks of step flashing as shims, reached in from the access hole and stuck them under the feet. Once each foot was tight in its shims I removed the plastic shims from the deck and caulked the rim of the tub.
We mark out the feet locations on the subfloor. Using steel or solid plastic shims (used for shimming steel beams and posts-get them from your friendly ironworker) placed on top of those marks until all four are dead on level-L to R, front to back.........
Set tub in place-holding the back up somehow while a guy sits on the floor and pushes the tub front with his feet............-helps to keep your hands in the space between the wall studs you are shoving it to.....
Lower it down and Wa-La, it's not right.............
Drag it out, redo according to the info you have from just observing it was wrong and then repeat placement steps.
There is no easy way. Just a bunch of ways.
Important thing-don't use wood shims.
Kohler rough-in books always have the caution that their castings can vary from specs by 1/2". As castings cool, they can distort. So, having a level floor or leveled points on the floor is no guarantee of a level tub installation.
You can set the tub in place, find the high corner with the level, and shim under the other feet as needed. You can usually reach down via the stud spaces to reach all 4 feet.
As you say, no easy way.
It can be frustrating to try for perfection because the tub itself is not perfectly square or straight. Get close, and, above all, make sure the thing won't rock.
But as Pirsig taught us in Zen and the Art of Motorcycle Maintenance, the second (and third..) time will go quicker because of what you learned the first time....
Also, if it is resting on a floor comprised of floor joists, make sure that there is a lot of structural support under the feet. A cast iron tub, filled with water and occupant weighs in access of 1000 lbs and it all pushes down on those four small points.
While I agree that the feet take all the load and apply it to where they sit......
A huge 600 lb person in that 400 lb tub will displace the water you'd need to exceed that 1000 lbs.
Cross blocking in or near the foot locations and installing say 1/2'' plywood under the tub and over the subfloor (to even up with cement bd in case you're installing tile) is cheap insurance. Adding underlayment depends on floor covering and what's needed as underlayment for the finish.
ATTENTION!
today, just now...........the damn Preview WORKED.
Imagine that.
Stop the presses!
In case you've never seen what it looks like.....
JUST LIKE YOUR FINISHED POST IN IT'S THREAD LOCATION.
ATTENTION AGAIN: I swear it worked. But only once. I edited the post and hit Preview once again..........NOPE>
As you were.