Replies

1. 
   timkline | Jan 16, 2006 11:09pm | #1

   did something just like this years ago. 

   will never do it again.  on windy days you could feel the breezes blowing right through the boards.

   not to mention the lack of fire protection.

   major regrets.

    

   carpenter in transition

2. 
   Piffin | Jan 17, 2006 12:03am | #2

   That is a new one on me. I have done the T&G over pooly a number of times, vented and unvented, and never had a problem with draft or condensation. The SR would give some benefit for fire but not for flame spread. I can't imagine what iot would do to prevent condensation if the VB is done right.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   JoeDy | Jan 19, 2006 10:15pm | #19

   Hi Piffin,  The fellow that told me about the condensation had worked in the home building industry for years and should have know how to put up a vapor barrier properly. It was his own home where he had problems with condensation.  The people who I have scheduled to do my insulation came highly recommended...but you never know.  I'm thinking a the extra layer of drywall will help seal the wall that much better.  I just don't want to have regrets later.

   Jody

1. 
   Mongo | Jan 20, 2006 04:14am | #20

   Psssst...Rigid foam board insulation.

3. 
   Grott | Jan 17, 2006 03:51am | #3

   We install nylon reinforced plastic sheeting for use under T&G ceilings all the time.

   It is more durable than regular visqueen.  We stretch it tight and side staple, then blow cellulose on it before the T&G goes up. 

   The back side of the t&g should never get cool enough to reach the dew point if proper insulation and heating are in place. 

   It could be a problem with job site style heaters that are not vented and  only run while the workers are there.  Very high moisture and cool ceilings = condensation.

   Garett

    

1. 
   JoeDy | Jan 19, 2006 10:08pm | #18

   Hi Garret,

   It is interesting hearing all the different options that are possible.  Unfortunately,   blown insulation is not an option for us.  To get a contractor out to where we live to do that job would cost us an arm and a leg.  It sounds like your way would be relatively quick and easy.

   Thanks,

   Jody

1. 
   Grott | Jan 20, 2006 04:16pm | #22

   Jody,

   The reinforced plastic is really what I was recommending, cellulose is a good product that you could install yourself but the plastic is a tough VB that can take the abuse that a construction project can dish out.

   Keep us posted,

   Garett

    

4. 
   IdahoDon | Jan 17, 2006 06:13am | #4

   That's the standard way to do it in the rocky mountain region.  A well installed poly vapor barrier is very important or the air loss through the ceiling would be quite large. 

5. 
   piko | Jan 17, 2006 09:50am | #5

   If your drywall is installed correctly, then you won't get drafts,  nor condensation if the insulation is done right.

   The big negatives of d/w first are - not seeing the roof joists/rafters to nail into, and, having longer nails likely to bend (albeit slightly) over time thru the weight.

   Use good KD lumber, and there'll be minimum shrinkage.

   All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

1. 
   Shaken_not_Stirred | Jan 17, 2006 07:07pm | #6

   But isn't the drywall REQUIRED by CODE?

1. 
   piko | Jan 18, 2006 08:29am | #7

   Hoisted on my own petard - I don't know!...will check my local code.All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

1. 
   Shaken_not_Stirred | Jan 18, 2006 08:00pm | #8

   One poster on this thread or a very closely related thread made a good point regarding wires, code, and straping.  He made a distinction between 1 by straping and 2 by straping.  He strapped with 2 by 2s giving him a 1 1/2 inche distance from the backside of the drywall to the joist.  Add teh thickness of teh drywall and from teh front side of the sheetrock to the top of any wire fastened to the joists you have at least 1 1/4 inches of clariance.  That is as good as drilling through a stub or joist.

   Now 1 by straping????????????????

1. 
   rasconc | Jan 18, 2006 08:20pm | #9

   Wouldn't 1x strap 3/4 plus 1/2 dw (or 5/8) give you the required 1 1/4 (1 3/8)?

2. 
   Shaken_not_Stirred | Jan 18, 2006 08:45pm | #10

   Well, since the wire is proud of the josit you eat up some of that 1 1/4".  I don't know, codes are funny things and don't necessarily make sense.  Maybe it is fine by code.  Maybe it is fine as a practice, maybe not.

3. 
   rasconc | Jan 18, 2006 09:00pm | #11

   I stand corrected, looked at codecheck and dim. is 1 1/4 to outside edge of hole.  Should have finished my coffee first.  Besides, I would use screws longer than 1 1/4 putting up DW in this situation, not to mention the random one that get sunk below paper.

4. 
   Shaken_not_Stirred | Jan 18, 2006 10:12pm | #12

   And rasconc, I humbly admit to not know any codes front and back.  I was more or less parroting or writting between teh lines of other posters.

   Just here to learn myself.

2. 
   piko | Jan 19, 2006 12:49am | #13

   I queried the drywall with my BI - not needed in B.C. Even for fire resistance. I quote... "So long as there's vapour barrier and you don't puncture it, as far as I'm concerned you can have tissue paper there"All the best...

   To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.

    

1. 
   Shaken_not_Stirred | Jan 19, 2006 01:15am | #14

   Thanks piko, for grins I should check my local codes.  yeah I don't have anything better to do.  LOL!

3. 
   Piffin | Jan 20, 2006 04:59am | #21

   not here. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   JoeDy | Jan 19, 2006 08:24pm | #15

   We didn't want to put up dry wall because the tongue and groove would be much easier to install with out it, but I think the extra vapour barrier might be worth it.  Thanks for your input.

   Jody

1. 
   Dudley | Jan 19, 2006 08:40pm | #16

   JoeDy -- here is what I did -- 1" 4x8 sheet of insulation horizontal all over the cath ceiling; then screwed 2x3 every 29 inches (skipped one of the 16" roof rafters); and then 1 2/3" inuslation board between the 2x3's; and then the T&G nailed to the 2x3's so far it has held up and the snow does not melt on this portion of the house till last - Dudley

1. 
   JoeDy | Jan 19, 2006 09:57pm | #17

   Thanks for the suggestion.  I will look into what this kind of insulation will cost.  If it still fits the budget, that maybe a good option.  Your spacing of the 2x3's seems wide.  Have you not experienced any sagging (with your T&G that is)? Thanks again.

6. 
   Dudley | Jan 20, 2006 04:18pm | #23

   JoeDy- you talk about cost and the insulation board possibly not being in the budget -- -- it simply has to be -- are you going to do a room that is colder than the rest of the house, are you going to turn the thermostat up so you can enjoy the room -- one way or another, you pay for not insulating properly. Rethink this position and either pay for it up front or pay for it for the rest of your ownership.  My wainscoting used on the ceiling comes in 4 1/2" strips that are 12' long -- a 3/4" board suspended from the ceiling with nothing pressing against it should not sag over a 28 1/2" span.  I tried to limit the thermal breaks so the warm air would not have an easy route out of the ceiling.  One other thing, I did was a 52" ceiling fan to keep the warm air in motion and close to my feet. good luck