I am building an addition to a customer’s house that has an existing cathedral ceiling that they want us to match. The existing room is 14′ and we are adding 20′. The current roof has a pitch of 12/12 and the room has no collar ties. Is it possible to build an ‘A’ frame cathedral ceiling without collar ties? I would say the obvious answer is yes because the current room has no ties. If this is true, can I replicate the same framing design in the new space?
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Replies
I'm not sure what you mean by 'A' frame... but does the existing room have a structural ridge beam?
Yes, I believe the room has a structural ridge beam, but the gable end wall on the one side is full of windows.
IF it is a structural ridge, it HAS to be supported somehow. if there are windows under it directly, then the header spanning that openning MUST have been designed to support the load and transfer that load to foundation.Adding a second structural ridge for a larger load to the same header is not a safe practice without getting it designed by a competant engineer
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There are a few options here.
The outside of the wall that you’re adding on to has to have a post in there supporting a structural ridge since there are no collar ties. If you want to add 20' to that room and then take out the whole wall and have a 34' room, you will have a problem. Or you can get a 34' I-beam to span both rooms to support both roofs. Big money!
If you are going to leave some of the wall where the center of the structural ridge is, you would either have to butt the new structural ridge and make sure you have enough width to post underneath both of them down to the foundation or put it underneath.
Can you see the structural ridge in the existing room?
As if yet, I can't see the ridge, but I believe it is structural. Also, the one gable end wall is full if windows right down the center. Could there be a header detail that supports this end?
Thanks for your help.
Yes, the load can be transfered down over the windows - see my other post and picture
>> Also, the one gable end wall is full if windows right down the center. Could there be a header detail that supports this end? <<Yes there can. We do this all the time. Is that wall going to stay wher the center is or will the whole wall be gone?Joe Carola
The whole wall will be gone.
Some years back, I bid a cathedral ceiling without ties. The archy specced a double 2x12, flat, to replace the 2x6 top plates. His reasoning was that the horizontal beam this created would resist the thrust of the rafters. THere may have been a steel flitch in there too, can't recall. It does make sense, but for your peace of mind and the inspector's satisfaction, I'd get an architect or engineer to size the beam and detail its construction.
Structurally, it seems like a workable idea, but it'll wreak havoc on your rafter tails.
Thanks for your help. It is an interesting idea, I'll see if I can get my architect to give it a shot.
An engineered ridge beam, rafter ties, or scissors trusses are the three ways of holding a package up and together.
Collar ties is a term that gets misused.
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... and the engineered beam can be an lvl - I did a 12/12 roof and the 18" ridge beam (lvl - 3 ply) spanned 14' Rafters spanned 16' Not big money at all. Scaffolding to carry the beam up by hand...
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We just did a cathedral ceiling - no collar ties - I think the span is about 20' or so. The ridge beam is a 5 1/2" x 11 1/2" Paralam. The post supports are unique in that the load on the back one is transfered down through another horizontal paralam in the wall. The front post rests on an angled beam built up of 2x10's. See picture
What kind of lift are you using to lift the ridge into place?
I call them vermettis, they are telescoping lifts. Operated by a hand cranked cable winch type deal. Great tool for the job. I used one to lift a 24' long by 16" 2 ply lvl into place on an addition, the beam carried a cross vaulted ceiling.
Do you have a better name? A Google search didn't go far with that one
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No I don't, I know that I borrow them from a local union iron worker shop. They use them for setting I beams and other commercial applications.
They are nice but they take two or three guys to get into and back out of the house.
I've used those lifts before several times also. Always check the cable, and use two. I had a cable snap while hoisting a 7x14x20 paralam and stupid me had a nailgun directly under the beam.Got it up to 10' of the slab when the cable broke, the beam came crashing down and shattered the brand new Hitachi. I brought them back to the shop where I rented them along with an invoice for the nailgun. They apologized and admitted they hadn't checked them over since the last guy returned them and refunded my money.My Dad was at the job when this happened, and had walked under the beam as we cranked, while we yelled "get out from under there !" Maybe 5 seconds later the beam was on the floor above a shattered nailgun where Dad was standing......
so much for the reputation of Hitachi for making near indestructable nailers...but tell dear Dad that incontinence in this case was probably a temporary condition and not to worry that he needs to choose his nursing home yet
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I agree use two, the job I am talking about I only could borrow one. The iron workers had the other 3 in Kelloggs putting beams in for a few weeks.
I had told my guys to put the LVL's in one at a time, while I started gang cutting rafters. After I finished my rafters they had both GRK'ed together and just about in the gable end pockets.
Wrong spellin.VERMETTEhttp://www.vermettlifts.com/main.htmGoogle suggested it right away.This one has prices.http://www.industrialladder.com/products/Vermette_Lifts.htm
Edited 10/14/2006 5:26 pm by BillHartmann
Sorry about the spelling error.
The 758T is the model I used. Weighs a ton.
shipping weight 388#Because of it's balanced design and folding base it can
be loaded into a Van or Pick-up truck with ease.sure that is the one? LOL
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Thats the one, took two of us to put it into the back of a pickup.
It has wheels on the back of the pole so you can lift it by the legs until the wheels hit the bed and push it in. But its awkward and heavy.
Just kidding you.
I can imagine.
I love a good paradox lie Andy loves a good pun.
I had this picture in mind - I buy a lift so I don't have to lift a one ton beam and then have to lift a one ton lift...four times, to get in and out of the truck, to the job and back home
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Bookmark that industrial supply one. They have all the diffeent brands of high work stuff. Thanks Bill
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Call United Rentals, that's where we got ours - they have branches all over the country I think.
That's where I got mine, too. United Rentals must be everywhere. NationRents has them also. They sure beat muscles as long as they're in good shape.
I forgot what is the exact name of them. They can go to 24' and we were at about 23' I think. In that application they were really our only option - we couldn't get a crane back to the building without taking out 20 or 30 large trees and even then it might have been iffy. A forklift wouldn't have fit into the structure without some modifications. Those lifts are typically used for setting ductwork as they will fit through a door folded up. They are portable but you need at least two people to manhandle them and thats rough going uphill. Someone mentioned the cable - I didn't really look it over too good but for sure if that broke it would have been all over - guess my next of kin could sue United Rentals. Seriously though we put the beam on the lifts and raised each one a few inches at a time. Once we got it up there we realized we should have attached some sort of bracing to the beam so it couldnt tip over. It didnt happen but if it had I think it might have slipped off the forks or tipped the whole assembly. We figured that the top plates would possibly slow down the falling beam. Also - I wasn't giving dimension for someone else to use, simply just what we used per the architect and structural engineer.
I'm curious what sort of lift poles those are you used to get that bugger up there and if they are powered or hand operated.BTW, I would be carefull offering half the specs on that beam with out all of them. The OP can get the idea that he could use the same since the span is similar. Other variables can be the span of rafters, the length of the beam, the required live loads for wind and snow, and the types of fasteneing used to hold it all in place.
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Yet another option...
A steel "inverted "V" flitch sandwiched between the rafters.
See this link to an article a few issues ago:
Flitch plate.