Replies

1. 
   sisyphus | Sep 13, 2008 07:35am | #1

   I have never built medicine cabinet doors that way so I'don't know about the glue and caulk. I have used silicone caulking to hold mirrors in place in rail and stile doors with success but I don't know if that is a universally acceptable technique or my good luck.

   The biggest problem I have had with the bathroom mirrors is the failure of the silvering over time. The most effective method I found for preventing that was to install the mirror so that no moist air (and hence no condensation) gets behind it. Your door technique sounds promising in that regard. No doubt someone else will be along with more definitive and helpful information.     

1. 
   telephoneguy | Sep 13, 2008 09:03am | #2

   I have built a few reproduction antique medicine cabinets and silicone the front of the mirrors into the door frame.they look quite nice from a distance but when you look at the edges you can see the reflection of the silicone in the mirrors.I think you should try out the liquid nails on some scrap pieces of frame and mirror 1st to see if you can live with what I have noticed.I think you tend go get a little closer to a medicine cabinet than a wall mirror.

1. 
   BillHartmann | Sep 13, 2008 09:32am | #3

   Mirror mastic should not cause a problem.Millions of mirrors have been mounted with mirror mastic..
   .
   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.

2. 
   sisyphus | Sep 14, 2008 02:34am | #10

   Thanks for the tip.

   I don't recall noticing any silicone showing in the medicine cabinet doors that I built but will try to remember to check next time I'm in that bathroom.

   One thing that was amusing was a bathroom I did with large mirrors facing each other on walls that were neither plumb nor parallel. The result was that if you peered in from the side you could see a series of diminishing images.

2. 
   Pelipeth | Sep 13, 2008 01:25pm | #4

   How about a back-band molding (stock) on those doors, alot more attractive than mirror edge.

3. 
   inperfectionist | Sep 13, 2008 01:51pm | #5

   I just mounted a couple mirrors last week. Situation much like you describe.

   The gap you anticipate should be 1/16" minus. It will appear as a very narrow shadow. To myself, and a think most folks, this looks fine.

   Make sure your doors are flat (ish). I have never personally seen anyone caulk the edge of a mirror,,,,, and I think it would look like h###.

   Would'nt hurt for you to do an experiment w a small mirror and scrap of wood.

   "liquid nails" might be great, but think about getting pro adhesive from your glass suppplier,,,,,, you don't want to use a tube of something that's been sitting on a HD shelf for five years. Your glass supplier should also be able to give you some tips. They do this all the time.

   Harry

4. 
   Danno | Sep 13, 2008 03:43pm | #6

   Just a word of caution--if you want to paint the caulk, do not use silicone! I like Lexel on glass--I don't know that it won't hurt the silvering though--I guess you can read the label. Lexel is paintable. I think sealing the edge from moisture will be good for preventing the silvering from getting messed up as it often does at the edges. You could also try a caulk in the color you want--then you wouldn't have to worry about painting it.

5. 
   larryb | Sep 13, 2008 04:50pm | #7

        I recall using a sealer on the edges, backs, of mirrors that go in wet

   locations.  I don't remember if it was a special product or off the shelf sealer

   spray.  Any mirror guys know?

        Larry B

6. 
   davidmeiland | Sep 13, 2008 05:31pm | #8

   Order your mirrors with machine flat-polished edges. Glue them to the door panels and skip the caulk around the edge. You can't improve by caulking.

7. 
   brucet9 | Sep 13, 2008 10:29pm | #9

   I hope you don't intend to install those mirrors anytime soon. Mirror mastic takes weeks to get full cure and your description sounds like you won't have any clips supporting the mirrors.

   I put up a big custom beveled mirror without support clips, using professional grade mastic with the best shear strength rating; label said 80% strength in 3 days.

   Homeowner took out supports 84 hours later, 30 minutes before his Christmas eve party guests were to arrive, and ten minutes later he had $300 worth of mirror shards all over the bathroom!

   BruceT
8. 
   Mselysha | Sep 23, 2016 01:59am | #11

   Silver issues

   You need to use adhesive made for mirrors. They make special caulks that do not disturb the silvering on the back of the mirror. If it is an especially heavy mirror you will need more than glue to mount it in place.