Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 02, 2007 10:32pm | #1

   I am going to say from what is available here that Geocel would be my choice. It really sticks and stays stuck to metals, has up to 800% stretch, and is paintable

    

    

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1. 
   DustinT | Aug 03, 2007 03:25am | #2

   It's funny you say Geocell.  I work on and off with two different GCs, one builds new homes strictly, the other does everything.  One uses the blue tube Geocell, and the other uses the Geocell 2300, which has just been reformulated, I think.  They are both high quality.

   I have used the blue tube stuff in many different conditions, whereas the 2300 I have used in 50 degree and up temps.  The blue is quite thick on all but the hottest days.  The 2300 is different, it comes out of the tube fairly fluid, but skins quickly and starts to stiffen quickly as well.  Any preferences?

   Dustin

1. 
   Piffin | Aug 03, 2007 03:58am | #3

   blue tube sounds familiar 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   IMERC | Aug 08, 2007 05:22am | #9

   geocill in this enviroment fails after just a couple of years...

   Vulcum is the way to go...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   Shep | Aug 03, 2007 04:51am | #4

   I guess I'm not sure what you're caulking.

   Do you have gaps between the J mouldings and the casings, or does the aluminum siding butt against the casing without the J?

   If aluminum ( or vinyl) siding is  properly done, there should be minimal need for caulk.

1. 
   gchdrake | Aug 03, 2007 01:27pm | #6

   Shep,

   I think you've pointed out the real problem. As I am a finish carpenter and mostly work with wood, I have had little experince with Aluminum (or any other than wood) siding. You said,  "does the aluminum siding butt against the casing without the J?" - Yes.I guess that as far as I can tell, there is no "J" and the siding butts against the wood. It appears that the only connection to the wood are the old beads of caulk that are like granite now..

   thanks for any continued advice,Gordon

1. 
   JTC1 | Aug 03, 2007 02:45pm | #7

   >>as far as I can tell, there is no "J" and the siding butts against the wood. <<<

   You are in possession of the legendary "can of worms".

   If you don't see the j track - you certainly don't have it - typically the exposed face is 3/8" or 1/2" wide.

   The only real way to fix your problem is to remove the siding and install the J track around the windows and doors. Then reinstall the siding. Then finally caulk the tiny gap between the J track and the wood.

   The J track, AKA, J channel, functions as trim to hide the cut ends of the siding and provides a covered channel of space for the siding to expand into and contract out of.   In addition, at the top of a window or door the J track functions as a drain trough to direct rain water to the sides of the opening.

   Good luck with the worms!

   Jim

   Never underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light. 

1. 
   gchdrake | Aug 03, 2007 03:06pm | #8

   Jim,

   Thanks,As with the rest of the 'finish' on this house I live in constant fear of discovering the next can of worms. It appears that what they did above the windows is actually cut and fashioned the siding to create the drip edge for over the windows...

   I hate seeing a well framed house compromised by a poor finish but as is often the case the homeowner starts to bleed money and compromises at the exact moment they should be insisting on good craftsmanship and proven/reliable building practices.

   I guess I'd better get to work,

   Gordon

3. 
   andybuildz | Aug 03, 2007 05:53am | #5

   You really shouldn't have much of a seam to talk about when the J channel butts wood. If it were me..and the gap was big, I'd get some nails in there with a nailset to minimize the gaps and then use any good quality caulking.
   I've used a latex caulk called "Big Stretch" that was really incredable stuff. Cost me about $5.50ish a tube.

    

    

    

   

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