I’m renovating my little house Hurricane Charley beat to a pulp & trying to make it better built & more energy efficient along the way. I am doing virtually all of the work myself & could use some advice from time to time.
I’ve spent the last week ripping out the doors, carpet & prying up the tack strips & baseboards & now am wondering if I should caulk where the wall (drywall) meets floor (wooden) before putting in new base?
Curious on opinions if this would help or if by the time the new baseboards are down along with the carpet & tile the seal would be about the same?
Thanks for your help, Bobbi 😉
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Hmmmmmm.... sir.. can you do a larger font please...
don't calk.. let the edge breathe.. you don't want it wicking up moisture and ruining your work..
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I can do a smaller font but if it's all the same to you I'm gonna pass on the becoming a Sir part ;-)
The house is 50 years old, wooden with a crawl space & for the most part was not wet. Some of the exterior doors & windows blew out & the rain blew in. I think the house has settled as much as it is ever going to & the wood is dry. My goal is just to keep the air in & the bugs out
Bobbi
Yeah, in a 50-year-old house it might make sense, though would probably have been better (certainly easier) to caulk the floor/plate joint before rocking.I have heard of some folks who actually set the rock on a bead of caulk along the floor.
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I understand the percieved need to caulk the dickens out of everything in sight after surviving Katrina...
But a few tubes of caulk won't keep her sister at bay! ;)
If you weere to caulk theere, and it hardened, then the lumber shrunk in the wall framing from drying, it would want to let it settle, but the caulk would stop the SR from settling so you could have nail pops etc from the pressure
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I've been caulking or spraying foam in the space between the drywall and subfloor on my projects for several years now...so far no nail/screw pops.After the foam sets up, I use a jamb hand saw to trim the foam flush with the wall.I think it reduces air leakage and blocks a common source of noise and bug infiltration...anything to keep Boxelder bugs and ladybugs out.
I use spray foam there too. This was about caulk
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I use spray foam there too. This was about caulk
That was my mistake. I did ask about caulk not really thinking about how big the gap was or about being able to use the foam.
Looks like I will have plenty of time to seal all the gaps ~ went today to p/u the 5 doors I was going to hang this weekend & they aren't the right ones. Guess I will be building window sills instead.
Thank you all for the input. I really do appreciate it. When I finally get done I'll post pictures of my progressBobbi
The cavities inside walls can be "little chimneys" and pull air from around the perimeter of the wall in a thermosiphen.
I often see stains in carpeting where sooty candles have been used where the carpeting "filters out some of the soot.
I don't know whether there are any significant energy coinsumption effects, though. I suspect not, but maybe out weatherization guru will jump in.
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Your house sounds like mine. Built in 43 though. Do you have plaster or drywall?
I foamed the area your talking about in my house, since it was not airtight at all. Hardwood over diagonal plank subfloor and there are tons of openings for critters to get in. I'd foam it all, I use a hacksaw blade to trim the foam, it bends if needed and gets into little spots.
Then I put in base, cap, and shoe. Before installing the base I ran a bead of caulk along the floor to bed the base in. Then I caulked the top of the base against the wall before putting the cap in. I'd say that's pretty tight and probably overkill but you shoulda seen the bugs and lzards in this place when I bought it.
I don't know for sure if you want your drywall resting on the floor, if that's the case. I'd prefer a gap of 3/4 to 1-1/4". I don't know all the cons or pros but I see it as a potential moisture wick.
But you do whatever you want, I may have done it wrong...
If anyone is worried about settling they could use the DAP latex foam caulk.
The house is just a little wooden cottage type. I have drywall & the gap between it & the floor probably varies between 1/8 & 3/4" so it never touches the floor. I'm thinking maybe the foam would be a good idea.
Just trying to keep the ctitters out & not have $400 utility bills.
As for the lizards ~ I have ya beat. Had baby possums. Found out when I gutted the kitchen there was a hole in the wall behind the stove that backed up to the bathroom wall & that my tub was sitting on the floor joists surrounded by absloutely nothing. Was a possum playground :-)
Generally the drywall is nailed to a bottom plate and that plate to the subfloor. This produces a reasonably good air seal. But caulking the joint would improve the seal marginally.
It wouldn't lead to moisture wicking -- any decent caulk is impervious to moisture, and there shouldn't be any substantial moisture on the subfloor anyway. Nor would it lead to nail pops, since any force (which would be miniscule anyway) that the caulk places on the drywall will be at right angles to the drywall nail shanks.
Caulk is no more likely to crack in this joint than any other, so long as the joint is reasonably clean and you're not caulking against an unpainted cut edge of the board.
Net: No harm, might do some good. But if it's a big swinger then probably there's a problem with the rest of construction (eg, lack of adequate air sealing on the outer envelope).
"Generally the drywall is nailed to a bottom plate "Yeah sure
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