I poured 30 yds of concrete for a turnaround and had my finisher come back the next day and cut lines in it.The mud wasn`t just rite or the blade on the saw wasn`t sharp whatever it has chipped and seperated at the joints.What is a commercial grade caulk I can fill these joints with?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story

Practical steps you can take to hire and develop entry-level workers and ensure long-term growth for your business, from fostering a supportive learning environment to creating clear career pathways.
Featured Video
How to Install Exterior Window TrimHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
try Sonneborn SL-1. It is a self leveling urethane, and according to their website, intended for your purpose.
The concrete wasn't cured enough (obviously). SL1 is the ticket. You see it a commercial jobs (like shopping center flat work) all the time.
A new concrete guy I'm getting ready to start with said he has a "green blade" that allows him to cut control joints in fresh concrete. Anyone know anything about that? Doesn't really make sense to me. The problem is that the pieces of aggregate chip out.
you really need to cut the joint has soon as you can walk on it. A slab can crack overnight.
Edited 9/17/2006 9:59 am by brownbagg
Know what a "green blade" is? Maybe a diamond blade with none of the curf cuts in it?
might check the Norton site... I don't know the difference in blades I have green, cured, asphalt blades ect... they all look about the same... green might be a finer grit... but then i buy all my blades off ebay .... where i think they call em whatever they think will sell
p
Thanks for the tip. Maybe it's the "
High Speed Turbo - Contender
"
Shown on this page: http://www.nortonclipper.com/Data/Element/Node/ProductLine/Product_line_edit.asp?ele_ch_id=L0000000000000002081
There are saws designed to cut concrete without chipping. Recently one of the local concrete contractors bought a new saw to cut some concrete a few days after it was poured and it was without chips.