Replies

1. 
   FastEddie | Dec 17, 2005 08:30pm | #1

   1.  Cut off the tip of the spout as small as possible.

   2.  After cutting off the tip, be sure to puncture the inner seal before squeezing the handle excessively.

   3.  Use a good quality caulk.  It only costs about $2 a tube more, and the results are worth it.

    

    

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

2. 
   bobl | Dec 17, 2005 08:31pm | #2

   http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=66798.1

    

   bobl          Volo, non valeo

   Baloney detecter

3. 
   mcf | Dec 17, 2005 08:41pm | #3

   push the tube...do not pull it. you can put down a nice finished bead when you control the output with the handle and push the tube.

1. 
   IdahoDon | Dec 18, 2005 12:30am | #5

   The following is a copy of some thoughts posted at JLC:

    

   I started out as a carpenter clueless about paint and had to learn painting as a necessary evil when self employed doing remodels. Then worked for a GC who was a painter and refined some of what was self taught. Now I'm as anal about paint as most painters and can pick out short cuts and poor techniques as easily as uneven casing reveals.On new construction or large remodels I'll caulk all my own trim and leave the nail holes for the painters. Until I've worked with a painter it's assumed that they can't caulk worth a darn as many of them apply too much in order to be faster leaving soft corners. The key is having good technique that is fast and leaves a good surface. You're already there, caulking takes very little extra time.For smaller segments of larger jobs I'll caulk and fill all holes. Essentially I try to leave the project ready for primer whenever possible. Another reason to caulk and fill nail holes is that when working next to a carpenter of equal skill and quality my work looks better and it's assumed I'm the better carpenter. Clients don't understand our business the way we do and it is shocking whenever they see gaps, holes, wires, nails, wall damage, etc. Even if we warn them that things will turn out ok and they fully understand this, subconsciously they still think bad thoughts about it all.Painters caulk is not all the same. Cheaper caulks have fewer solids and thus shrink more. For most trim this is not an issue, but if you are finding it annoying try a better caulk from a paint store. The less silicone, the easier it is to cleanup so for interior applications the lower level caulks are what we use and aren't at a functional disadvantage over the higher grades. We use clear (goes on white) for staingrade and ordinary white painters caulk for paint grade. When teaching junior carps how to caulk trim, cabinets, etc. it's always stressed to get those gaps down so we're only dealing with cracks. The tip is cut as small as possible and a good quality gun is used. I'll thumb the release while applying pressure to have more control of the flow and apply only as much caulk as will fill 75% of the crack. The outside of the pinky finger produces the tightest fit to smooth the caulk, at least with my fingers. The side of the finger acts somewhat like a scraper, pushing the caulk towards the bottom of the finger (side with fingerprint) so use the finger that best moves the applied caulk in the desired direction.   For instance, when caulking casing to a textured wall it's harder to keep caulk residue from smearing on the texture so wipe it with the outside of the finger along the wall.  Smooth the caulk and most of the crack will disappear. Apply only a fine bead, to cover about 75% of the remaining crack and smooth with pinky. This will produce as small a caulk joint as is possible without wiping with a cloth. With such a thin bead it will sometimes slightly pull away producing small holes when dry, but these areas are easily touched up. Excess caulk should never start to build up on the finger or there's too much applied to the wall. Immediately wipe off any finger buildup as it will just smear the wall and take more time to wipe off the wall and trim. Again, never allow caulk to buildup and be dragged along the wall--and don't apply that much in the first place. Just before corners pressure is released on the gun so the bead stops short an inch or so (constant thumb pressure is key to quick stops). The corner is carefully caulked from the corner out. The smallest nailset is drawn along all intersecting joints from the inside going out. This squeezes some caulk into the joint and some of it up on the edge of the trim and wall. Then damp t-shirt material is wrapped in one layer over the nail set and drawn over the corner joint removing all the excess caulk from the previous step.The pinky is used to feather in from the corner to where the main bead was stopped short.A trim carpenter may only use 1/4 tube of caulk a day caulking his own joints with these fine beads.There are always wider gaps that are relatively messy and time consuming to fill well in one pass. For those I'll apply the 75% fill, smooth it and leave it. Any big gaps are left for a few hours and refilled instead of wasting time trying to get it all the first time.I keep a caulking gun or pastry bag on top of an empty plastic painters pail with a small amount of water in the bottom holding a spare damp cloth. I'll probably caulk 3 or 4 times a day, usually after finishing a room, window, door, or cabinet.For staingrade trim use caulk that goes on white and dries clear. Again apply only enough to barely fill the seam, but remove any residue that remains on the woodwork with the t-shirt material over the pinky. The finest tip on the tube always seems too large so I keep a pastry bag and a #1 tip that produces a bead roughly 1/32", or a #2 which is about 1/16". For nail holes I like the stuff that goes on pink and turns white when dry. That makes it easy to know when to sand and since you're there on site it's easy to take a minute to sand the area that you just worked. Put it on with your finger and dab it on leaving a little more so when dry it's still proud of the hole (of course). Don't fill holes with a putty knife or the painters (and finish carps that have a clue) will make fun of you--it takes too much time.It's gratifying to leave a room ready for paint, but not everyone is fast at it, or willing to develop a technique that produces good results. Personally, it makes me and the work look better, speeds up the painting process and requires only a couple minutes a day. People who complain that it takes too long are the ones who don't have a solid technique so they piddlefork around unprepared.

   ---------------------

    

   Finished a cabinet-style storage closet over the weekend and had caulking inside, out and down. It made me think of this discussion while fighting the caulking gun around tight spaces, detailing the corners and sneaking behind the hinges.As a time saver the only caulking tool was a caulk gun with the pastry bag being left buried in the truck. I had forgotten how important the pastry bag had become for tight areas with a lot of detail, or for smaller areas where convenience and quickness is more important than volume. Most of the time the caulk gun is only used to refill the pastry bag. If you haven't used one, Wal-Mart has a $3 set in the cooking isle so what do you have to lose? You screw the thing together with a #2 tip, squirt it partially full of caulk, twist the bag closed and give it a squeeze to make a fine bead. Simply wrap the whole works in a damp rag and drop it in a 1 gal plastic bucket to store for up to a few days. If it's going to be a week I'd just seal the lid of the bucket and pour half an inch of water in the bottom. For use during the day just drop it in an empty toolbag pocket and you'll never know it's there. If the tip keeps starting to dry and clog during the day just wrap it in a damp rag.The key to using it well is just like the caulk gun--don't use too much. If you have to wipe caulk off anything you're using too much. Being able to quickly make a tiny bead of caulk that is a breeze to smooth out is what the pastry bag does well. If you're afraid the name will associate you with girlie-men, call it a small grout bag and everyone will think it came from a tile supply house. Good painting,Don

1. 
   etherhuffer | Dec 18, 2005 05:52am | #6

   Two of my favorite tips: Buy good caulk. PL urethane for outside is really good and tough, even though you need solvent to clean up. Polyseamseal for interior is pretty nice for sinks. Seals tight but can be pulled apart later.

   Buy a good caulk gun. Get one with a cam lever action instead of gear action. Easier on the hands. I have an air powered caulker for big fast and dirty work, like on a roof or putting down adhesives, etc. Be warned that an air gun will empty a tube in seconds if the pressure is too high!Those who can make you believe in absurdities can make you commit atrocities- Voltaire

2. 
   MikeInVT | Dec 29, 2005 03:53am | #16

   A little caulk, a little paint, makes a "finish carpenter" what he ain't! ;)

3. 
   andybuildz | Dec 29, 2005 06:48am | #18

   Did that guy say caulk "nail holes"???
   Sounds really wrong to meeeee...did I read that wrong? Must be late,
   G'nite.....caulk nail holes..dumb ####..grumble grumble...echhhhh...I musta read that wrong...Do I sound like an R. Crumb comic? Nite!!The secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

   When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace. I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.

    

    

    

    

1. 
   IdahoDon | Dec 31, 2005 04:20am | #20

   Did that guy say caulk "nail holes"???

   No.  It was implying: "...caulk trim and fill nail holes [with spackle]..."

   I'm also not a fan of caulking nail holes unless it's exterior work.

   Cheers,

   Don

1. 
   andybuildz | Dec 31, 2005 05:17am | #21

   I really was tired...lol.
   Thanks...whewwwwwwThe secret of Zen in two words is, "Not always so"!

   When we meet, we say, Namaste'..it means..I honor the place in you where the entire universe resides, I honor the place in you of love, of light, of truth, of peace. I honor the place within you where if you are in that place in you and I am in that place in me, there is only one of us.

    

    

    

    

4. 
   Fonzie | Dec 18, 2005 12:19am | #4

   Here's a tip I use if I have a tube with too big a hole for the caulking job at hand: Take a "vise grip hand bender" or a similar "mashing device" and squeeze about an inch of the end of the tube together parallel to the angled cut. It will stay for a while.

   Many times to clear the end of a tube of 100% silicone you have to cut the hole larger. This technique allows you to use it for a narrow bead.

5. 
   Heck | Dec 18, 2005 06:54am | #7

   Hey, are you the little guy that used to give Superman the fits?

   "Citius, Altius, Fortius"

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 18, 2005 06:57am | #8

   Superman didn't wear fits, he wore tights;) 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Heck | Dec 18, 2005 07:10am | #9

   If the tights fit, wear 'em.

   :p)"Citius, Altius, Fortius"

1. 
   Piffin | Dec 18, 2005 07:33am | #10

   But if they fits too tight, you must a-cquit! 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

1. 
   Heck | Dec 18, 2005 07:40am | #11

   Uncle!

   LOL"Citius, Altius, Fortius"

2. 
   Piffin | Dec 18, 2005 07:45am | #12

   g'nite! 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   bigfootnampa | Dec 18, 2005 10:01am | #13

   The best caulking tip I can give you is to buy and use White Lightning caulk wherever you can get by with a water base caulk (98% of most users work).  Visit their web site they have several specialty caulks.  Their standard stuff is good for most uses though.  I figure it at about 3 to 5 times better than ordinary caulks.  For real cold temperatures outside check out the Paint Flex paintable silicone... it is rated for use to -65 degrees farenheit.  I have caulked with it down to about zero myself.  The aluminum ladders are really cold at zero degrees!

1. 
   technoz1 | Dec 29, 2005 03:20am | #14

   Guys according to Anderson you should leave 1/2" space along the sill and 1/4" space around the remaining perimeter.  Is this a good practice I know my brick layer wanted to but right up against the window but I had him follow Anderson specs.  What is the best way to caulk this? Any recommended caulk that comes in SandTone color?

   Thanks!

1. 
   jocobe | Dec 29, 2005 05:11am | #17

   Andersen recommends backer rod, then caulk the gaps around the window.Andersen sells sandtone caulk. They have caulk for every window color.....even forest green!View Image

7. 
   MikeInVT | Dec 29, 2005 03:47am | #15

   One method is to back-cut the tip and push the tube rather than pull it.

   If I have to be really neat, the best way I've found is to mask off up to about about 1/8" from the edges with painter's tape (the blue stuff). Lay down the bead of caulking and spread it with your finger (OK, wet it if you want to) then carefully pull up the tape. Now -with a wet finger- give it the final touch.

1. 
   RCovell | Dec 29, 2005 08:35am | #19

   One more tip I can share. I always orient my new caulk tube so the label faces up, then, cut the tip at an angle. That way, when the tube is face up in the gun, you'll always know where the angle of the spout is oriented. I do this because sometimes the tip gets a buildup on it and obscures the angle and you generally want the caulk to be forced down into your gap. Bob.