About eighteen years ago, FWW had an article about using cauls for edgebanding ply for use in frameless cabs and slab doors. I’ve used this system ever since I saw it, and for the small operator, it can’t be beat. This would be for the trim or finish carp that may have a shop with a TS and jointer and some clamps. With the down-turn in home construction, some of ya’ll might find a little side money making cabs that don’t have that iron-on junk for banding. You can vary the thickness and break the edge or put a round over on the edges of doors. You can even use multiple species for different color variations.
This system takes just two clamps for one or two sides of a piece of ply, up to 3-4′. You make the cauls by ripping 1/4″ strips of 4/4 oak, spreading glue on’em, taping the bundle together, and bending’em over a form. You can put as much or as little deflection in them as you want, but the minimum is about 2″ for a 4’+ caul.
You use a lam trimmer with a FT bit and climb cut to finish the piece. I’ll post some pics, and if anybody wants more explaination, I’ll post a more complete description. It’s really easy once you do a few.
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Tom,
Cauls work really well. I will make some. You are right about that iron on junk. I have been doing solidwood edges for over 20 years. No call backs. I want to see more of you method and thought I would share mine.
I use 3-1/2" rips of 1-1/8" MDF that are not cauls.These are 1/2" solid wood edges. I oversize my panels so I get 2 sides, tops, bottoms, stretchers and shelves from each glue-up. Oversizing eliminates end trimming.
I run a bead of TB III.
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Then brush it for full coverage.
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Clamp it using the MDF rips.
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A 1-1/4" piece is glued for the wall scribes.
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The edges are flush routed.
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The edges are sanded with 80 then 120 and get eased.
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A coat of sanding sealer is next.
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The panels are sanded with 150, double cross cut to length then ripped to size. Sometimes the dados are cut before ripping.
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The units are assembled in the usual manner.
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The finished units.
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Chuck S