Replies

1. 
   calvin | May 14, 2010 12:34pm | #1

   If you plan on sealing the show side

   I would definitely do all sides.  The humidity will be there in spite of the covering.  The expansion and contraction might not be huge with cedar but will still be there.

   If you aren't sealing the show side-I guess you might get a way with it no problem.

   Cedar doesn't seem to cup like pine and a few others.  Nor does it like to twist.  Knowing that, you might be ok.

   Are these going to be tongue and groove and full 1x thickness?  How wide?

1. 
   goodlad | May 14, 2010 01:31pm | #2

   reply to response on cedar board varnish

   Thanks for your comments,

   The cedar is tongue and grove along  length and width. It is 5 1/2 inch width and is probably 1/2 to 3/4 inch thick. Don't have it here yet so can't measure but they are the standard boards.  I am also putting them on the wall of the house that the porch attaches to. They would be nailed to the OSB house sheathing. I assume the same applies as far as varnishing both sides.

   Thanks again!

1. 
   calvin | May 14, 2010 03:11pm | #3

   I can't remember if..........

   I ever put up protected siding unsealed, unstained or unpainted.  When I do one, I do the other.  I seal all cuts and ends also.

   But it doesn't have to be-look at cedar-left out in the elements, turning naturally as the weather dictates.  It lasts (or not) because of the installation techniques-which enable it to shed water, which keep it from soaking it up and not drying and from the spacing and fastening-keep it from buckling and twisting.

   Your boards on the wall stand a greater chance of discoloring (reaching natural patina) than the ones on the ceiling, tho I expect over time the ceiling will lose some of the brilliance of new stacked in a yard, cedar.   The roof heat might test it some.  Is it vented above the alum. you have up there now?  Releasing some of the heat might help keep it stable-less chance of knot fallout.  Don't know if cedar knots bleed like pine.

   Clear sealer on cedar deepen the grain-many find this appealing. 

   Most of what I've written assumes the smooth side showing, is that what you plan? 

1. 
   goodlad | May 14, 2010 08:38pm | #4

   thanks for info on cedar boards

   The ceiling is actually 2X4's with rigid foam insulation between them. 1/2 inch OSB on top and the 1/2 inch OSB on the underside with the aluminum on the underside. The floor is made the same way.  This gives some insulation value during the spring and fall for a 3 season use. This is a porch that is made by a place called Leisure rooms in Minocqua Wisconsin (whrere I live). They pre make the walls etc at a factory and ship it to be installed by their installers. Its actually pretty neat. The whole room is windows with each window section consisting of 4 panes that each slide up and down independantly. You can slide all four down in each panel to allow pretty much full open screened in area. Each of the 4 panels is a vinyl window. This allows you to close up the porch for the 3 season use.

   The smooth side of the cedar will be facing the room.

   Looking forward to  spending evenings out in the air without the mosquitoes.  As you may know, Wisconsin is known for its mosquitoes. As soon as dusk sets in you cannot sit outside unless you soak yourself with Deet spray and that only works somewhat. These babies are vicious.

   Thanks again for the advice.

1. 
   calvin | May 14, 2010 10:12pm | #5

   I'm almost embarrased to say this..........

   but since I came back from the local bar I can now read things a bit more clear.  Funny that. 

   Thought maybe we'd catch Crystal Bowersox of current Am. Idol  fame, but we were a bit too early.  Not too early to suck down a couple tho.

   At any rate.  I see clearly now you are talking about a glassed in room.  No weather in there probably.  So that shouldn't be a question.  To bring out the beauty of that cedar I might want to put something on it to enhance the grain.

   Best of luck.

   I'll now retire to a ballgame on the tube.

2. 
   MarkH | May 15, 2010 01:32pm | #6

   Maybe this guide will help.

   http://www.wrcla.org/specifications_and_publications/pdf/Guide_to_Finishing.pdf