Replies

1. 
   MarkDikeman | Aug 24, 2002 07:31pm | #1

   Hopefully this will help you.

   Installing Cedar Siding

   Yes, I am serious.   And don't call me Shirley.

2. 
   Mongo | Aug 24, 2002 08:01pm | #2

   Jay,

   Lots of good pics on the previous link to help define instalation techniques/proceedures.

   For me? With 6" claps over half-inch sheathing, I use 6d ring shanked stainless nails. Handnailed. Sorry...but I don't recommend air nailing cedar claps. Nail off so the nailhead is flush with the face of the clap. Not proud, not set...just flush. I also prefer a waffled or textured nail head. It hold solid stains better...and if not staining, the textured head isn't as bright and shiney as a smooth-headed nail.

   For a 6" clap, the clap s 5 1/2" wide. For 4 1/2" exposure, I nail 1 3/8ths inches from the butt or bottom of the clap. Again, see the pics on the above link. You don't want any nails to penetrate two claps or you can get splitting when the boards try to move.

   I nail into the studs...so the nails end up either 16" or 24" oc, with the nailheads all lined up nice and purdy like.

   Nailing on the edges of the board? If you break the claps over a stud, nail about a half-inch or so from the edge. This will get both nails into the stud. I predrill, then nail. If you don't predrill it's likely that you'll split the board. If you don't care about the ends breaking over a stud, then I'll nail about an inch from the ends of the board, predrilling there as well.

   Edit: One other thing...I prefer to cut the claps slightly long...an eighth, maybe slightly more...depending on the length of the clap. Set one edge, bow the clap, set the other edge, then "snap" the clap into place. It'll keep the butted seams nice and tight.

   Optional, but you can also place a small piece of folded felt (or Al or Cu) behind each butted seam. Low-tech flashing.

   Also, if the back of the unprimed/unfinished claps are to be in contact with the house wrap, I recommend good old felt over a spun-poly type of housewrap.

   Are your eyes glazed over yet?<g>

   Good luck with the install.

   
   

   ---

   Edited 8/24/2002 1:09:40 PM ET by Mongo

1. 
   JaySurg | Aug 24, 2002 08:12pm | #3

   Mark & Mongo

   Thanks for the helpful information.

   Mongo, a follow-up question, if I could.

   I am a hand surgeon so I dont swing a hammer much

   When I have hammered 5p ring shank nails I bend them too often

   Thats why I got the nail gun

   Why dont you recommend a nailer

   Best

   Jay

1. 
   andybuildz | Aug 24, 2002 09:56pm | #4

   I think the Mong man doesnt recommed a nail gun cause you cant control the slam dunk like a hammer can. As for me......I've always hated seeing nail heads so I sink dem bad boys as close to the bottom of the next course of clabs as possible..under the bottoms of the next course......I've gone back to look at gigs I've done 15 years ago and nothings lifted. I used 6b galvies..finish....I know I know.......but tellin ya.....nothings lifted in over 15 years and no nail heads showing......JMHo and experiance.

   BE well

           Namaste'

                           AndyIt's not who's right, it's who's left ~ http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

2. 
   Mongo | Aug 24, 2002 10:56pm | #5

   Jay,

   Andy pretty much answered it...you get better and more consistent head setting when hand-nailing vs air-nailing.

   However...

   You have an investment (your fingers) to protect. If you want to air nail, certainly feel free to do so. Still be careful though, as you can put yourself out of commission much more easily with an errant air-driven nail vs with a wayward swing of the hammer. Unless you're using a 28 oz waffle-faced framing hammer.<g>

   With your compressor set to the recommended psi setting, take a couple of sort pieces of clap and nail them off on the side of your house. Replicate reality by running them with the proper exposure. Run off a few nails through the claps and into studs (recommended), or if you're not concerned with hitting studs, into just the sheathing (not recommended). Set the depth of drive on the gun so you get a nice placement of the head.

   Realize that if you do mix hitting the stud vs nailing into sheathing, you'll get a little variation in head depth.

   Now, for a bit of reality: It's not rocket science. There are, however, a few techniques that can be employed to make one siding not just look superior, but to last longer and peform better, than another siding job. Setting the depth of the nail head other-than-flush, or not at a consistant depth throughout the job, is not going to break the job.

   Plus, you bought a Hitachi...good tool.

   Watch the fingers and the eyes and have fun.

1. 
   Snort | Aug 25, 2002 02:24am | #6

   I've only handnailed beveled cedar siding, but only 'cause it's been so long ago, pneumatic guns were'nt adjustable back then...I'd do it in a heartbeat if I could control a gun so's the exposed nailhead didn't smack through the face of the claboard...gently pressing upon is one thing, but breaking the surface is looking for potential non-holding power and possible leakage/rot. Like the link shows, nail above the lower course (Mike Guertin's advice here should taken with a grain or two of salt), if a course ever has to be removed, for whatever reason, things will look ugly if two pieces of siding have been pinned with one nail.

   No opinions M'am, just facts...

1. 
   KenHill3 | Aug 25, 2002 04:52am | #7

   Good lord, yes. NEVER nail through both claps. Duh.

   Ken Hill