I am building a deck that surrounds a pool. The surface is 5/4 x 6 cedar.
The HO as requested that I install the deck w no gap between the boards.
The cedar is – I guess KD – and stored at the lumberyard in a dry unheated building.
The deck is “60 boards” wide at it’s widest.
I am sure thinking some gap would be appropriate.
The location is about an hour north of Toronto,,,,, cold winters, hot summers,,,,plenty of rain.
Many Thanks, Harry
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Replies
Do as he wants but get a written disclaimer that you don't agree with it. It IS his call if he's willing to have it all possibly buckle up.
Me? I like the thickness of a speed square unless the wood is SOPPING wet, then , butt em up tite. Real dry as you mention, maybe an 8d nail shank diameter.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "
Me.
I laid down some cedar decking boards about fourteen years ago. It was stored in a covered area outside at the lumberyard. Very minimal shrinkage if any. Now some of the boards are starting to rot :-(
What Sphere said in xxxx.2.
Assuming those boards are very dry, the HO will be calling after the first rainy spell and complaining about the buckles and humps.
Be certain he understands the risk of this installation, is willing to pay for possible remediation and proceed. Written would be best.
Sounds almost like this guy is a good candidate for a T&G synthetic - doesn't want any gaps.....
Jim
Edited 6/25/2008 7:31 pm ET by JTC1
spread it out and run the sprinkler on it 3-4 days to let it 'acclimate' to conditions then
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Folks,Thanks for all the input.HO - if not an experienced carp - is an intelligent fellow.Hopefully, I can sell him on a more standard, best practice, logical approach.Regards, Harry
I built a cedar deck in the Upper peninsula of Michigan with out any spaces in '98. It's in the woods along side a river. I haven't had any problems with it rotting, buckling or shrinking. I check it out every time I go there for vacation. I'd do it the same way too. I like the look with no spaces
-h
Just a thought - if the customer does not want spaces now, will he be ringing your phone to complain when spaces appear later?
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At customer's request, all deck boards are to be installed without spacing, regardless of recommended conventional installation specifications. Thus, customer accepts responsibility for alternative installation method and will not hold contractor, manufacturer or any other party liable for any problems that may occur during or after installation.
Cusomer's Signature _____________________________ Date ___________
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Nuff Said.
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We use 16 common gal. nails. You can gently set the nail into the joists then you are free to work the deck board. Been our standard for 25yrs. Butted boards will be a disaster.
Decks soak up and dry just as quick.
We lay hardwood floors tight and the seasonal movement in the worst of climates is 1/2".
Its not like the deck is jammed in between walls, the whole structure will absorb the expansion and in reality, the framing is expanding and contracting, not only the top deck.
The only thing I don't like about zero deck spacing is the dirt that accumulates in the cracks between boards.
"Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
I've seen the 4x4 rail posts lapped over the decking and bolted to the band joist, get the bolt heads sucked in by the deck pushing the posts away. Then it's wobbly when it's finally dried back.
Once I saw that. One time.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
That would be similar to interior hardwood jammed between walls and not enough gap for expansion.
I assume the side opposite the posts was installed tight to the building?
That band joist must have been rock solid to have remained in place when the posts moved.
"Perfect is the enemy of Good." Morrison
IIRC, it was blocking from the band back into the field joists adjacent to the posts that was to keep the band from rolling when the posts were leaned against, that held tight.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"We strive for conversion,we get lost in conversation, and wallow in consternation. "Me.
Just finished recommending pulling up a cedar deck top and planing the boards then sealing them and reinstalling them.
The deck wasn't 6" off the ground and was a shallow lake underneath. The solution I think will work best is to lay a rubber roof membrane over each joist bay pitched to a common trough with drain built in.
The deck being to tight was not allowing any ventilation and buckling and rotting the boards from underneath.Less than a year old.
NEVER BUTT CEDAR DECKING!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
ANDYSZ2
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Thanks Andy and everyone else for all the thoughts and suggestions.I was talking w the HO again about this issue. Seems he is basing his desire for no space at install on previous experience he had with some PT material that was spaced than shrunk way back.Harry
Opinions about decking and the correct species vary based on experience I guess. Here's my experience.. I built a two tier deck about 220 sq ft and used untreated pine 2 x 4's in the early 80's at my home in Calgary and another 200 sq ft deck at my cottage near Radium B.C. in the mid 90's using top grade tight knot cedar 2 x 6's. Before installation of both decks I stained all 6 sides of each board. The pine 2 x 4 deck boards that are beyond the house overhang need replacing and I am in the process of doing that now with Cedar 2 x 6's. I am staining each board all 6 sides before installation. The cedar deck at my cottage is doing fine even though the humidity is higher and the weather fluctuates more. I will space each board with the 3 inch 8 D screws I use. No buckling problems but the pine boards at home have a few cracks because I put some screws in too close to the edge. I have climatized the new boards for 16 months prior to staining them.