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I have read previous discussions here about methods for setting 4×4 cedar posts.
How about installation of the cedar fence boards themselves (4 inch x 6 foot boards)? Can they be set as close to one another as possible or should there be a space left between them? I have seen some local fence contractor’s jobs with as much as 1/4 inch spacing. That doesn’t make for a very private privacy fence.
How many nails per board?
Which nail gun nails (Porter Cable FR 350) can be used to avoid the staining and streaking from the nail down the cedar?
What is a good oil based treatment product to use on the completed fence?
Replies
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Jay, if you get kiln dried boards, you should leave a space because they'll swell when they get wet. If you get air-dried boards from a local mill, you can probably set them tight, but they'll shrink as they dry more. If you want total privacy use either shiplapped boards or tongue-and-groove, or use some sort of batten to cover the gap.
On a 6' board you'll probably want a mid-rail to keep the boards in line, at the 3' mark. With tongue and groove boards you might be ok without it. Use 2 nails at each support member, 3/4" in from each edge.
I don't know about the PC nail guns, but to avoid streaking you have to use stainless steel nails. You can get them for a Hitachi coil nailer (roofing or sidewall), and you can rent the nailer, or just hand nail. Use ring shank nails so they don't pull out with moisture cycling.
For finishes, do a search of the archives here on "outdoor finishes" or "cedar finishes". It's been discussed a lot, and there are lots of options. Good luck,
Mike
*Mike, thanks for the reply. I have noticed that the locally available cedar fence boards are noticeably damp so are probably air dried. I wonder what happens if I stack some up for a while to dry out? Will they warp and curl badly if not nailed down or just shrink and remain reasonably flat?
*Jay, chances are they'll twist and bow, though I don't have any experience drying cedar myself. Even if you dry them, after a long rain they'll swell up and buckle if you lay them tight. That's the nature of wood--it's just a big sponge. You can't win I guess. Set 'em wet and let 'em shrink or set 'em dry and leave a gap. Those are the only two options I know of.Mike
*I built my cedar fence using vertical tongue and groove boards. The bottoms are set in a groove cut into 2 2x6s, the tops set in a groove between 2 2x4s. The boards are free to move with temperature and the tongue and groove keeps it private. The fence also looks the same from inside and out. The only screws to worry about are holding the 2x4s and 2x6s to the 4x4 posts.
*Jay,For Starters I would invest in a quality fence board. Spend a little extra and avoid the twisting and warping a standard 1x4 will present ( common fence material bought from H.D. or local retailer) check with resawn yards, 7/8 net are best and generally are a dryer product. If dry, gap min.1/8 coat with water repellant ASAP. Use a stainless fastner, 2 per board min 3/4 from outside edge, 3/4 stagered from horizontal center line.Hope this helps, Walt (NW experienced)
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I have read previous discussions here about methods for setting 4x4 cedar posts.
How about installation of the cedar fence boards themselves (4 inch x 6 foot boards)? Can they be set as close to one another as possible or should there be a space left between them? I have seen some local fence contractor's jobs with as much as 1/4 inch spacing. That doesn't make for a very private privacy fence.
How many nails per board?
Which nail gun nails (Porter Cable FR 350) can be used to avoid the staining and streaking from the nail down the cedar?
What is a good oil based treatment product to use on the completed fence?