When installing window trim that cedar shingles will butt into, what would you all recommend to get the thickness up to 1 1/4 inch or greater. 5/4 trim won’t be thick enough. I could use 4/4 and buid up the edge (behind the trim). I was thinking of maybe a 1″ wide by 1/2 thick strip glued to the back of the windo trim. I need to have a bit of a gap behind the trim next to the widow anyway fror the nailing strip so the trim will lay flat so this gives me an opportunity to do that as well.
Another option would be to use 4/4 window trim and brick mold around the edge for the extra thickness but I don’t know if that will really give the look I want.
Sorry if I have some terminology wrong. I am a commercial aircraft mechanic that does fine furniture and cabinetry work as well. The house is being built in NH and I am doing a lot of the work myself.
Lots of firsts on this project for me. SIPS, radiant floor heat, cedar shingles, a good bit of design work and I’m acting as the GC from 1000 miles away. Has been a good experience so far although not without it’s pitfalls (mainly weather related).
Here’s a pic of the first shingles on the house. ( got to thank Mike Smith for some of his posts in other threads on shingle installation, they were extremely helpful)
Tom
Douglasville, GA
Replies
Here is a pic of a place I built and sold . . . the shingles are eastern white cedar, the trim is 5/4 western red cedar.
Why do you think 5/4 won't do?
View Image
Edited 4/15/2006 6:15 pm ET by Gene_Davis
Well, at a six inch exposure I am getting about 1 1/4 inch thickness. I don't want the shingles to be proud of the trim with 5/4 I am assuming about 1" thickness. I'm using western red cedar. I am basically a novice at trim work so I am not rally sure what common practice would be.
Nice looking place BTW.Tom
Douglasville, GA
Your WRC butts may be thicker than those of eastern white.
If you do your sills out of 2x stock, ripped to give the top a little downpitch, total thickness maybe 1-3/4", then do 1x trim with a rectangular-profile backband on jambsides and top at about 1 x 1-1/2, you can stand sidetrim on the sill, and everything will look nice. The 1.5 backband will give the shingles nice cover and stand a little proud.
It is good to do a notch under the sill bottom for the shingle tops to poke up into.
Go to the photo section here and follow Mike Smith's "adverse conditions" thread with photos. You will see a sill section he makes using Trex (plastic wood) stock.
There is something atypical about your 'shingles' They rarely build tomore than an inch.Use a backband or ana additional piece of molding to bump out the thickness of the trims.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Tom i build homes in western montana with red cedar shingles and use a pre primed finger jointed product called winsor one 5/4 and for windows it is a great product the shingels are almost even with the trim and butt right up aginst trim works and looks great for the craftsman look we desire to build here. this is all at 4.5 inch ex.
Edited 4/15/2006 7:45 pm by montana nate
Yo,
It is good to see Shakes installed. I did the same with 35 squares of them Unbelievably time consuming but it looks great. And it lasts a long time.
To answer your question I used Brickmold. The extruded plastic stuff. That is the cat's patoot. No painting and it is impervious. The local box store (Menards) has it here in Wisconsin. I don't know about GA.
As for the window construction... First hook up the window to the wall as you usually do. I used Tyvek to sheath the whole place. Then used the tar foil seal strip on the window openings. Then applied the extruded white brick mold. Caulked (silicone) the top edge of the mold. Then nailed aluminum drip cap over the brick mold. Caulked the top edge. I then applied shakes 1/4 inch shy of the aluminum drip.
My place is on the edge of Lake Michigan and you need to think like a raindrop. Rain snow wind make it essential. Seal the top edge of everything and make certain it drains somewhere outside of the structure.