cedar shingles where gable meets wall
I’m residing the house w/ M.C. shingles and have moved up to the second floor now. I’m getting ready to start the sidewall of my shed dormer where it meets the gable roof. I’m having trouble visualizing how to be sure I have adequate coverage along that bottom course where wall meets roof. The roof is a 9 pitch and I’ve been going with a 5″ exposure on the shingles. When I start the corner I use a full length shingle w/ the bottom cut to match the roof pitch. The next shingles are progressively shorter and just “die” into the roof? So the last shingle is just the last few inches cut off the top? Or is this not so critical, could I just cut a bunch of shingles of 2 or 3 different lengths and run them staggered all the way up the rake when I start? Sorry if this is a little confusing, I don’t know how to explain it any better. Maybe somebody could recommend a book or something w/ pics. Just want to make sure its done right.
Replies
I've only done a few houses worth of shingling, there are others here who would make me look like a total amateur, but.....(LOL, maybe they'll check in)
Keeping in mind things like having the courses line up with windows and such, (use a story pole, and vary the expose a bit if you need to achieve the proper alignments), I'd start at the bottom, run my first course as usual, and wrap around the side, angle cutting that course as needed. Then I'd run the second course, doing the same, and on up the walls. At the top, you'll be using "bottoms" and cutting those to fit up against the soffit or trim or whatever you've got.
I keep three boxes as i go, and toss the cut offs into one box, dependig on what it is. For example, you will be cutting some bottoms of in places, and just using the tops of the shingles. So I toss those in a box, then go to that box when I hit the top of the wall and need a shingle that will have the top cut off.
This is esp. important when using prestained shingles. I've see the waste that occurs when you don't use shingles efficiently, and it's a shame. You can save a lot of money, time, trees and landfill space with a tiny bit of organization.
I've always weaved my corners, so I think my method has been mandated because of that, but even if a corner board was being used, the "projection" off the wall might vary a bit if done otherwise.
Jake Gulick
[email protected]
CarriageHouse Design
Black Rock, CT
I follow everything you're saying and do likewise except.... as I go around the corner and continue the course where it dies into the roof. For lack of a better explanation the tops of the shingles are somewhat even, when you reach the point where the course meets the roof you basically have a shingle top thats a couple inches tall and almost paper thin ( difficult to nail also). That just doesn't seem right to me but if it is than so be it. Maybe what I'm trying to ask is do I use a longer shingle for that final one even though the Butts will be different thickness?
Keep your courses consistent or you will end up with different thicknesses of adjacent shingles. When you go to nail the shingle on the next course above it will crack do to the different thicknesses of the shingles it overlaps.Keep some small galvanized trim nails with you for nailing the little pieces.Mike K
Aurora, IL
"For lack of a better explanation the tops of the shingles are somewhat even, when you reach the point where the course meets the roof you basically have a shingle top thats a couple inches tall and almost paper thin"
Crawdad, I don't quite follow you... for that last course on top, you just keep the tails and fastening on the butts at your normal exposure ... so for a 5" exposure, you might have a last course at a full 16", then trip to 10 1/2", then 5 1/4 (just the butt, of course).
As someone said before, keep the off-cuts separate. I also like to set aside the wide bed sheet shingles, because those will work best on the roof rake end, or up against a rake board. Also, fudge your expose slightly to make the courses line up with window/door trim ... you will never notice a 1/4" fudge, and applied over several courses, you can make an even course line up with almost any trim feature.
Thanks to all.
Do like you think- cut a little bit off the top of the shingle to finish the course.
basically, you want to keep the TOPS of the shingles even as you do the dormer sidewall.
I'll use a staple hammer to tack the small pieces on. When the next course is installed, then the shingles underneath will be held firmly.
If you don't keep the shingle tops aligned, then the shingles will end up being wavy from the variation in thicknesses.