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cedar sidewall shingles on a slope

| Posted in Construction Techniques on April 28, 2006 04:15am

I’m replacing the  sidewall  cedar shingles on my 1920s home for several reasons but I’m not sure as to the technique for running them up a sloping roof.  Does anyone know the proper sequence for doing this?  My confusion stems from the  shingle next to the roofline has to have another shingle below it but doen’t because of the sloping roof.   Thanks  hort 

 

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  1. Damien Stokholm | Apr 29, 2006 02:32am | #1

    Can't get my head around your problem - are you doing the roof or the wall? Is there a wall adjacent to the roof - 1story meets 2 story... could you post a pic?

    1. Hort | Apr 30, 2006 01:22am | #2

      my problem is the sidewall shingles. These run up the sidewall of a shed roof dormer and adjacent to the dormer is a sloped roof.  All wall installation is the same ie: a double course starts them off and then single layers run up the wall. On a sloped roof The shingle next to the roof won't have a double underlayment shingle because of the slope. I don't remember seeing side wall installation  on a sloped roof on the cedar shingle bureau web site.  I'd appreciate any guidance.  thanks.  d

      1. davidmeiland | Apr 30, 2006 01:49am | #3

        I see what you're saying... a wall that does not have a level bottom course.

        In spite of that fact, you run level courses of shingles, and your bottom course is doubled. It doesn't matter if the first course is only part of a shingle and a triangular part at that. Cut it and install it anyway. Make sure you do not push it down against the flashing, hold it up a fair bit. For that first shingle at the bottom, make two and install them.

        When you start your next course, you will be fine. The purpose of the undercourse at the bottom is to avoid 'blank' spots between the shingles in the first course, where the felt would otherwise be exposed. You will not have a problem with this as you continue up.  The undercourse also helps to kick out the bottom of the first course.

        What kind of fasteners are you using?(wow, 2 edits and I still might not be making sense!)

        Edited 4/29/2006 6:54 pm by davidmeiland

        Edited 4/29/2006 6:56 pm by davidmeiland

        1. TomMGTC | Apr 30, 2006 03:19am | #4

          It made sense to me but I just installed my first shingles and have the same situation. I think it may be one of those things that you overthink beforehand but oncde you get started it just makes sense.Tom

          Douglasville, GA

  2. User avater
    Sphere | Apr 30, 2006 03:33am | #5

    Dang it man, hire a roofer. Or else it'll be my sorry azz out there to fix your fix.

     Sorry to rant at you, but people like you keep us in work, either doing it right the first time, or coming out after you flucked it all to hell. And I'd rather come in before you went messing with it.

    Rant over, my sincere apologies.

    Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

    Damm, I miss that stuff

    1. Hort | Apr 30, 2006 05:45am | #8

      I don't know where your from but around here there ain't no good roofers. Last time I hired a roofer they used piddly little step flashing and electrogalvinized nails on my copper flashing.  If all roofers did work like Mike Guertin I'd take your advise.  

      1. User avater
        Sphere | Apr 30, 2006 05:54am | #10

        Unlike YOUR profile, mine is intact. I'd be sure to help you if I knew where you are.

        Yes the starter course is gonna be thin, I'd lay full shingles on the plane with a head lap, then yer first has the kick out.

        Sorry if I toe stepped ya..it's my nature.

        Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

        Damm, I miss that stuff

  3. MikeSmith | Apr 30, 2006 04:52am | #6

    hort, just keep in mind that all courses run dead level to infinity..

     if you keep with that principle, it all becomes clear

    Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
    1. User avater
      Sphere | Apr 30, 2006 06:11am | #11

      Snork..yer as bad as I am.."dead level to infinty''  LOL.

      Yup, he  got the gist of it...you kill me.

      Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

      Damm, I miss that stuff

  4. Damien Stokholm | Apr 30, 2006 05:35am | #7

    Like Mike said. You'll come to a point on each course where only the thin part of the shingle is being nailed on - the part that is normally completely covered. You'll say to yourself: "self, why do I need to put these on, they aren't even seen". Ignore that thought. Just keep putting every little "seemingly" insignificant piece until they are too small to fiddle with.

    Sphere knows his stuff, but don't let him scare you - this isn't rocket science. Are you putting corner boards or running the shingles around the corner? There are some tricks here too. I like to alternate the shingles up the corner, and block plane the square edge to be perfectly true to the adjacent perpendicular shingle - maybe this is to hard for me to explain. Well, you'll figure it out.

    1. Hort | Apr 30, 2006 05:53am | #9

      I know what your saying and I agree.  I weaved the shingles on my grand kids tree house but was intimidated by the size and scope of the house project.  The history is I bought a 1920s bungalow, raised it up, added a new addition, stripped all the siding, trim, windows, and roofing material from the old house - one side at a time. My only regret is that I didn't weave the shingles on this place. It still looks good though.  Thanks for responding. 

  5. Bentstick | Apr 30, 2006 10:05am | #12

    I am sure most of these guys walk away more confused after reading a few of these posts.

    Thats right son, I need you to go down to the dock and get 100' of shoreline. (that will keep him busy for at least an hour!).

    If it wasn’t for the Bank Payments,

    Interest, Taxes, Wages, and Fuel Costs,

    I wouldn’t have to charge you!!

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