Replies

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Dec 12, 2001 03:33pm | #1

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   phil hill.. sounds good , but i'd skip 1 & 3... no benefit..

   also.. if you can get CAHVG.. teh claps will be a lot more stable..

   and the factory primed material with a "problem solver " primer is great stuff..

1. 
   Geoff_B | Dec 13, 2001 12:48am | #2

   *I'd dump the behr and go for cabbotts. More solids makes it last longer.

1. 
   Kerr | Dec 13, 2001 09:01pm | #3

   *30# felt because it will not melt from the Cedar tannins the way Tyvec does (also from soapy water).Add a rain screen (space the cedar away from the felt with firring strips running vertically). Put a bug screen in the hole at the bottom that this spacing creates and let the air circulate behind your siding.with the air space provided by the rain screen you could use the Tyvec if you want to, but I'd still use felt because we KNOW that it can last 100 years :o)

1. 
   silver_ | Dec 18, 2001 07:56pm | #4

   *Good Day . Thanks for your suggestionsI'm committed to cedar,bought it a few years ago on sale.Stainless nails out of Jersey are dear: 5.50 a # plus shippingthat's 8.80 in beaver bucks (canadian}so I'm probably going to pick up hot dipped galvanized from my lumber yard.Quite the controversy on tyvek. I think I'll take your advice and go with 30# felt: 17.00 a roll in what my brother refers to as the great white gouge.What's your opinion on rain walls:fir out vertically? I have 2'overhangs that shed lots of water off walls. the maximum i couldfir out would be 1/4 " Anymore would put me past my window casing.Any major problems if I omit rainwall? I will create drip at bottom of first course to help prevent wicking.

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Dec 18, 2001 08:48pm | #5

   *phil.. we use a lot of hot dipped galvanized nails.. but i wouldn't use them on cedar clapboards...the old timers set the nails and primed and puttied them...even so.. they rusted..we used to use silicone bronze boat nails.. until SS became readily avoailable..spend the extra $ on the SS.. if you skip lunch one or two days... it'll pay for your nails..you won't regret it...b but hey, whadda i no ?

2. 
   ANDY_C._CLIFFORD | Dec 19, 2001 06:20pm | #6

   *SS nails are a must. Fiber breather mesh behind the cedar is a great product. I did a huge cedar job on a house I lived in for almost twenty years. I treated the backs of the cedar on the front of the house and dropped that technique for the rest of the house and years later I saw no difference but maybe in another fifty years from now when I pass it (if I live to be a hundred) I may see a difference. Who knows. Make sure to make yourself a "story pole". Makes the job go so much faster. My water level was also a great tool. Funny how such primitive tools work so well.

2. 
   silver_ | Dec 19, 2001 06:20pm | #7

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   Greetings and salutations. I'm new here: carpenter, woodworker, tradesman who teaches. Live not far from Thunder Bay ,Ontario but still a Yankee Doodle.Got some time before Christmas to side my house and just want a quick tune up.
   lap cedar siding over 1/2" plywood:
   1.kerf ply 4' horizontally to allow wall to breathe
   2.30# felt or tyvek/typar; ok. the jury is still out on this one but the short answer is ?
   3.joints taped or not
   4.stainless steel nails,2" dome head ,just nail through one course of siding
   5.backprime and touch up joints;joints over studs and scarf at 30 degrees
   6.have had good luck with Behr ;planning to finish with Behr again;ok so it's my significant other's choice
   7.givver;thanks for your help. Merry Christmas to all and to all a good night.