Replies

1. 
   davo304_ | Feb 11, 2000 10:24am | #1

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   Let me guess, you've blown the budget with the stone for the front and sides, and want to use something "cheaper" in the back where most of the people won't see the house, right?

   If I were you, I would try to make a deal with either the stone supplier or the stone masons (or both) and finish the rear of the house in stone as well.

   Any possibility of downgrading or eliminating a few fixtures or features from the house design which could save you a big chunk of money to use for completing the stone work? (eg.... Do the landscaping yourself; buy a somewhat lesser grade of carpeting; eliminate that basement bathroom until a later date; buy different kitchen cabinets; cut down on expensive style light fixtures; install a patio door instead of expensive French style doors; use a nice style vinyl or lineoleum flooring instead of tile, or hardwood; hold off on the big screen TV purchase until next year; etc. etc. etc.) If you believe that downgrading or excluding some features would be too much of a compromise, and must stick to your plan of alternative materials for the rear of your house, then here are some insights about cedar and dryvit.

   Cedar.... depending on what region you live in, can be moderate in price to downright expensive. (I guess since your'e considering this, that the price must already be agreeable to you. I would not paint it, but would stain it with an oil base stain (if you are after a certain color scheme) and then seal it with a clear wood perservative/sealer afterwards. If you like the natural cedar color, then simply seal it with the clear wood perservative. Sunlight will in time break down that clear wood perservative and if left alone, the natural color wood will turn a silvery gray. Lots of people like this look, however I do not. (it looks to me like old wood in need of a paint job!) If instead you opt to stain it, in time it will need stained again, otherwise it will fade. In otherwords, there is continual maintenance with cedar siding. (if you want it to look as new as when first installed) If you like the silvery gray color, then very little maintenance is needed. Old growth cedar used to be rot resistant, but I don't believe the cedar being harvested today is as good as the old for fighting rot and decay. Make sure the proper type of siding nails are used. Stainless would be best. Regular nails will leave rusty water marks on the wood after a while.

   Dryvit.... more apt to simulate stone or masonry than the cedar. Dryvit comes in many finish textures, and can be made to simulate many things; including stone and block. It has a styrofoam type backer board which the finish texture is applied to. This foam can be cut with an electric "hot knife" into many shapes and designs. The foam also doubles as insulation; which helps out quite a bit. Dryvit would be my first choice if I was wanting to simulate a stone or brick or any other type of masonry. But it does not beat the real thing.

   Many, many homes in the south have experienced severe wood rot from using the dryvit product. Various cities in parts of North Carolina have banned its use altogether. The main problem with dryvit (or Stowe, or any other brand of acrylic based stucco type system)is that if moisture gets trapped behind the stucco finish, it has no way of escaping.

   The finish coat is waterproof. If your house is a wood frame construction and water penetrates through, it will eventually rot the plywood sheathing. How does the water leach in? simple...water leaks in through failed caulking joints at window and door locations, and at roof/soffit connections, and other places. So long as your house is properly flashed and caulked,( caulking should be in conjunction with usage of foam backer rods. Backer rods are first inserted into large gapped areas, and then silicone caulking is applied overtop of the rod. Simply pouring a bunch of silicone into a large gap is definately a recipe for longterm failure; whereby water will get in at this location) this should not happen, but the dryvit is only as good as the contractor who installs it. If the contractor fails to properly seal off every potential water source, you will have problems down the road.

   Dryvit came out with a design change to help eliminate water from collecting behind the finish. In essence, this new design change incorporates the use of weep holes that will allow the moisture to escape. If your contractor is familiar and uses this technique, then I would opt for the dryvit over the cedar. If the contractor is not certified in using this new technique, then I would not use the dryvit. By the way, dryvit too is pretty expensive.

   Are you sure you can't finish the house in stone? How about using brick in the rear?

   Davo

2. 
   Guest_ | Feb 12, 2000 01:03pm | #2

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   I agree with davo. Carpets,etc yu can always up grade later. From the "street" if the back is visable it will be obvious "the buck stopped here"

1. 
   Guest_ | Feb 14, 2000 08:03am | #4

   *Stone and wood, it's a natural, eifs (dryvit) I would steer anyone away from until someone can convince me it's got the bugs out.Every house is a balance of choices. Get some nice carpet use hte cedar and if you get a bunch of money down the road the cedar will be easier to remove and you can have a nice bonfire. I don't know what You can do with old dryvit. Check out Mesmier's oil or some other penetrating finish. Good luck and enjoy the house. Skip

3. 
   Mark_Schick | Feb 14, 2000 08:03am | #3

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   We're building a home with masonry(stone) front and sides but are unsure of what to use for the back of the house. What are your collective thoughts on using cedar siding(and whether to stain or paint it) vs. the dryvit-type of material?