OK folks…looking to draw on the collective experience out there. I am getting ready to side my cottage this year and have narrowed my options to cedar or pine (horizontal t&g or shiplap). I want it to have a nice driftwood grey finish and plan to use Cabot’s bleaching oil. I am using the rain screen wall approach to try to maximize the life of the siding and I live in Atlantic Canada so we run the gammut weather wise.
My original inclination was toward cedar for its natural rot resistance but the lumber suppliers suggest I would get good results with pine as well and at a lower cost.
Any thought on pros & cons to either?
Replies
Unless the pine is old growth (which I seriously doubt) it wont last nearly as long. Especialy if you want it to 'weather gray'. Finish the back side to so moisture absorption is balanced out.
If you want it to last and want that nice weathered grey look, I'd go with white cedar.
If you want to save money, consider cyprus or even spruce rather than pine, which is not as stable a wood and will sweat pitch when the sun hits it.
I often use 1x6 shiplap drop siding pattern 105. It's 3/4" thick and has a nice shadow line and good drainage.
And definitely back-prime the wood, which is more important than rain screen.
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Solar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
Edited 2/25/2008 11:56 pm ET by Riversong
definitely going to back prime. If I end up using shiplap it will be 6". what would you recommend as far as nailing goes? I read one article on FHB that says 6" and narrower need only one nail about an inch up from the bottom. Sound right to you?
I read one article on FHB that says 6" and narrower need only one nail about an inch up from the bottom. Sound right to you?
Yup. But I set it an inch and a half up to keep it well clear of the 1/2" lap.
Riversong HouseWright
Design * * Build * * Renovate * * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
what do you use for nails. With the natural gray I have a concern about staining.
If you are hand nailing, 2.5" stainless siding nails would be your best choice wrt staining, however, the "holding power" of small headed siding nails is marginal at best if you go with something that is apt to move and cup (like flatsawn pine). If you were using vertical grain cedar siding the ss siding nails would be fine. I've done some shiplap tear offs and the best nails in terms of holding power (assuming you take the time to find and hit the studs) are #8 hot dipped, spiral shank deck nails (if you can find them). Alternately, #8 hot dipped box nails would hold well, but the heads will be abundantly obvious and the zinc coating on the heads is usually compromised after three whacks with a hammer.
You have lots of choices really, but you will have to decide if you want better holding power, or no staining. Or find a ring or spiral shank ss nail with a common or box head (though I've never seen such a beast).
I use 8d hot dipped galvanized. But I cover those with a final coat of solid body latex stain.
I've done unfinished white cedar shingles with 5d galvanized gun nails and they seem to have held up fine.
But if you're worried about staining (and particularly if you're near the ocean) use SS siding nails.
Riversong HouseWright
Design * * Build * * Renovate * * ConsultSolar & Super-Insulated Healthy Homes
I agree with the Cypress. And horiz or diag T&G? bad idea , IMO. T&G goes vertically or inside.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
No local cypress around here. Cedar and pine are plentiful and most local mills have siding in both. Why do you not recommend horizontal t&g? this is the first time I have heard any objection to that and you certainly have my attention. ps. does IMO stand for "in my opinion"?
Yes to the P.S.
I have seen Horiz. T&G hold or redirect water at the joints. Best case is the joint never really dries out, and molds/rots. Worst is the water can follow the joints with capillary action ( no edge like a clap to drip from) sideways and get into corners and behind trim.
Yes it was installed groove facing down, but it still stayed wet long after a rain.
That was in NC mtns ( which really that part is classed as rain forest) so your milage may vary in a dryer locale.
I didn't mean to frighten you.
Given Pine or Cedar..then I'd have to go with some $ shopping and see the grade of te material to choose, either one wants some kind of protection and back treatment.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"