Replies

1. 
   darrel1 | Feb 27, 2002 05:47am | #1

   *
   Paint the pipes, expose the joists and stain them. It makes the ceiling look taller, keeps everything handy, and doesn't cost much.

   If you want a drop ceiling, IMHO, there aren't any that look good. Maybe make your own with wood panels? I've seen some where they hang 4x4 sheets of plywood from cables and space them with about a foot gap. Didn't look to bad.

1. 
   Brian_Smith | Feb 27, 2002 07:12am | #2

   *asennadi've suggested leaving the joist cavities exposed and painting pipes before when the exposed subfloor is plank. is yours? a possible glitch in this approach - will you have some large holes in your joists after removing cast or does it run parallel with the joists for the length of the room?could always set "cleats" below the height of the piping, short at one end by 8". then pass some cut(cedar?) planks over the top to hide the pipes in cavities containing them or where holes exist. create a pattern as needed to make it aesthetically appealing (every other/third/fourth cavity). then close up the end with a single, removable (screwed in) section.here's the online synopsis of creating good looking exposed joists.http://www.bobvila.com/GlobalFrameSet/searchframe.phtml?QueryText=beam+malibu&Collection=bobvilabrian

1. 
   arrowshooter_ | Mar 01, 2002 02:57pm | #3

   *One way to do this is to attach 1X4s directly to the bottom of the joists which forms a ledge on each side of the joist then cut an lay in ceiling tiles with standard cross tees between the panels. You can pre-paint or stain the 1x4s before you lay in the panels. I also put a ceiling in my shop by ripping OSB into 6" x 8ft strips and shooting them onto the bottom of each truss then cut and layed in 2x4 ceiling tiles with 2ft cross tees and 8 inches of insulation blown in above.

1. 
   asennad | Mar 01, 2002 10:20pm | #4

   *That's a good idea. I want to keep a finished look to the basement and the previous suggestions (stain the joists and paint the pipes) wouldn't look right - too dark/unfinsished.

1. 
   bobl_ | Mar 01, 2002 10:30pm | #5

   *Most people won't like this:Use cloth. Staple or use bats to attach to joists.

2. 
   Luka_ | Mar 02, 2002 08:47am | #6

   *Huh ???If 1x4's, (3/4' thick), are not too much to have below the joists, why would 1/2 drywall be too much ?Is it just the removable aspect that is most important ?

3. 
   Jim_Hausch | Mar 02, 2002 06:00pm | #7

   *I used to work on private yachts. Access into ceiling cavities is always important, but so is an attractive ceiling. For the last decade or so, a popular solution has been padded panels geld up by velcro. We'd cut them out of doorskin ply, spray adhesive thin foam, and cover with what we called "headliner material" (shallow staples, lots of 'em). It was sort of a soft back, high quality vinyl. If you don't have any luck finding examples let me know-I can get you in touch with someone. The headliner vinyls are nice, matte finish with a little stretch to 'em to make hanging easier--they really look sharp.You can either cut 2x4 "tiles", cut a size that will match your existing joists, or get imaginative and cut free-form designs. The thickness of the vinyl that wraps around the edges ends up being about what your saw kerf is, so the fit is a no brainer.We used halogen lights in 3" diameter cans to light the wheelhouse where we did it. There were no heat problems from the cans to the vinyl. We also used two lighting circuits, one set had red lenses and was on a dimmer for night running - but I am digressing here. Since we had shock and vibration loads to deal with, we used that really rigid velcro. For home use, regular velcro would be OK. Buy the sticky back for easy set up, but plan on stapling it into place.Let's see . . . what else . . .Um, oh yeah, you will end up "modifying" a butter knife as your panel removing tool.Good Luck!