It’s hot and I’m tired. Aren’t we all. Screened in porch, sheetrock ceiling. 15′-2″ span, will 2×8’s cut the mustard?
Let’s not confuse the issue with facts!
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial NowDig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.
Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.
Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox
Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.
Start Your Free TrialGet complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.
Already a member? Log in
We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.
Replies
Yes. Just put a 2x4 on a flat and 2x6 on edge strongback at half span and you'll be fine.
Joe Carola
Thanx framer, wife's from Jersey. I'm a displaced Cannuk. One of those mixed marriagesLet's not confuse the issue with facts!
Where's she from? Ask her what exit. ;-)
Joe Carola
Exit 9 I believe, were you serious or just using the standard Joisey joke. She grew up around Sommerset (sp) if I recall correctly. Close to Rutgers, or whatever it is called now. We get up that way once or twice a year.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Exit 9 I believe, were you serious or just using the standard Joisey joke.
I was just being a GOON and using the Standard Joisey Joke. ;-)
Joe Carola
I just framed mine in and was concerned with my span using 2x8's. It is only 14'2" and a wood ceiling. I'd go with 2x10's with that span and drywall ceiling.
Steve
what's the pitch? and whats the roofing? i think you will need taller rafters....
Pitch 2.5:12
Roofing 1/2" ply, paper, shingles
Strongback great idea, cost effective too
Rafters 2x6 but sitting on double 2x4's on flat between ceiling joists so they will just clear joists. Double 2x6 header all around on 4x4 posts about 4' o.c.
Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Edited 7/22/2003 10:50:15 PM ET by GDCARPENTER
well, somebody will probably correct me but i think you need 3/12 pitch for your composition shingles? i would suggest 30 felt, also. it sounds like you have ceiling joists and roof rafters -- both -- but connected? creating a weak little truss? i still think you need something like i joists or at least 2x12's 2' on center or closer. how's your snow load? (calif. or alaska?)
For a rafter supporting a ceiling, a 2 by 8 at 24-inches OC will span 14-ft max. You'll need 2 by 8 at 16-inches OC which are good for 16-feet max.
If I were you, I'd go with 2 by 10 at 24-inches OC. Good for 16-feet.
Only occassional snow loads here in Raleigh N.C. I'm actually doing this as a favour for another contractor, waiting to get my ducks in a row for my next job.
Figure I need ceiling joists and rafters because the gable end that's attaching to the house is attaching to a cantilevered second floor, ergo I want to go with a ridge board (using the ceiling joists) and NOT a ridge beam, because I'm sure as shooting that no extra load can be put on the cantilevered second floor. Everything will be 16" o.c.. Figure with standard rafter/ceiling joist set up the roof load is essentially being carried by the walls of the new screened in porch.
While I'm at it, were using existing deck. 2x10's @ 24" o.c.. Fella I'm doing the job figures sister the existing, I figure go 12" o.c. and reduce the span for the decking boards, same number of extra 2x10's either way. He wants 5/4 board I'm recommending 2x4.
Thanx for all the replies, why is it that I do this again, please remind me!Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Did not include any snow loads for the spans I gave. Also, values I gave were for Doug Fir-Larch No. 2 or better. I'm not sure what wood you use there.
The floor joists should be ok for 2x10 @ 12-in OC - good for 17-foot span, again DF No. 2 or better.
Better yet why not just go with roof trusses and take care of the whole ploblem all together.
Im look at my souther pine span tables put out by the Southern Pine Council http://www.southernpine.com table 2 Ceiling Joist-Drywall with a l/240 deflection limit 1
No. 3 Southern Pine 2x8
12"oc 21'8" span 10psf 15'4" 20psf
16"oc 18'9" span 10psf 13'3" 20psf
24"oc 15'4" span 10psf 10'10" 20psf
If you use No 3 or better you will be fine for your job