I finally finished the gable ceiling in the new three seasons room with beaded tongue and groove fir. Tough job to do solo. I’ve been staring at the gable wall above the windows, deciding whether to run the fir horizontally, vertically or just sheet rocking the space.
Opinions?
Replies
Hhhmmm---3 season porch--I'd love to have one of those--
You have all that nice wood on the ceiling--How could you rock the walls.
What is more woodzy than a 3 season porch I can almost see it--
Ok you have guessed my opinion..
Run is horiz if you want to stretch the room width wise and vert. if you want more visual height .
Or if both are right than how about a sunburst or herringbone pattern? Inverted "V" -- A nice display shelf above the window for atrifacts from trips or your BB hat collection.
Just some food for thoughts.
Mike
" I reject your reality and substitute my own"
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
If he runs it vertically, he will need to pay attention to how the groves and beads line up with the ceiling pieces, which will become next to impossible to deal with on the angle. Or else maybe a piece of trim that is like a plinth block, except along the whole edge. My vote would be horizontal to avoid this, but the herringbone has appeal too.
Rock it.
Too much wood is as bad as too little wood sometimes.
blue
Depends.
What's the area like? Wooded, lots of trees, or typical suburbia? How about the rest of the house? If you're in a forest-type area, all wood might not be too bad. Same if your house is a log home, or possibly a style sympathetic to the material.
Tend to agree with Blue, tho'. All wood works in a particular situation, but gb will work with everything. Paint it a nice green, maybe pick up the wood again with the flooring. Maybe a tan accent somewhere or a complimentary stain and you're good to go.
Yep, like the rest, I'd give a qualified answer, that like as not, a little less wood might be ideal.
If you don't align the gable end wood to the ceiling joints (whether vertical or horizontal), the mis-matches will catch the eye. You are probably not keen to rip the t&g to a new reveal. You could, use a board along the 'rakes' of the gable, and "joggle" the boards into that. That's an old boat-building thing, and is a nice detail if you're near the water.
I'd be inclined to a nice sand-finish wallboard, though, were it me.
The room is 16' x 16', attached to the back of the house. Each of the three sides has four 7' high windows, separated by a 4 x4, except one wall has a door instead of a window. There's an 18" kneewall under the windows. The kneewall is covered with Kleer, a white synthetic PVC wood, with a vertical beadboard pattern. The 4 x 4's are trimmed with solid Kleer. The floor is tan TimberTech, but I may put down an all weather carpet. I've still not put a finish on the ceiling; I wanted to see it first. I originally planned to use a white translucent pickeling stain, but now thinking a clear urethane.
The inside of the house has painted plaster walls and ceilings and painted wood trim. The only exposed wood is clear maple hardwood floors and red birch kitchen cabinets. The outside has grey shingles and white Synboard (predecessor to Azek and Kleer) trim. The perimeter of the back yard is treed is all directions.
The roof is pretty steep. When I cut the board to cover the LVL at the peak, the sides were about 55 degrees. Unless I recut the fir, I don't think the beads will line up with the ceiling if I run it horizontally or vertically. I thought about doing something diagonally, but afraid of opening Pandora's box. What's involved with a Herringbone pattern?
If you don't align the gable end wood to the ceiling joints
C'mon fellas. A little basic geometry please. Regardless if the wall boards are vertical or horizontal, the joints will not align with the ceiling boards. Not if he uses the same width boards. Think about it. The wall boards will either be the height or base of a triangle, and the ceiling boards will be the hypotenuse.
It might work if the ceiling is a 12/12 pitch.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
That's what I thought. My guess was that the only way the beads would line up was if I interected the boards at 90 degrees to the ends of the ceiling boards, which would set my "diagonal" to the same rake as the roof. How "bad" is it if the beads don't match?
Take a piece of the same wood and rip a strip about an inch wide. Install that and let the wall boards die into it. Or you could run the wall boards first, the apply the strip on top of the boards, like a shoe moulding.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Beadboard run horizontally looks wrong. I've never seen it used successfully that way.
Either take Mike's suggestion and do some kind of art pattern, or run the stuff vertically.
But Ed is right, too; the beads on the gable will not match the ones on the ceiling. So don't try. Center your bead pattern on the gable wall. Run the siding up to the ceiling. Then install a rake board over the siding with a shoe of quarter round or whatever pleases you between the rake board and the ceiling. You might want to mould the lower third of the rake board with a beaded ogee or something similar.
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
Can it be run perpendicular to the ceiling boards, so it comes down the wall at the same angle as the roof? I could miter them where they meet inthe middle, or install a plumb center board and have both sides die into it.
That's the sunburst herringbone somebody had mentioned.
Are you married? If so doesn't matter what the guys here say, ask DW.
That would work. It wouldn't really be a sunburst, but it won't look too shabby if you are meticulous.
If you're really anal and your stock is very uniform, you wouldn't even really need the centerboard you mentioned; assuming the roof panes are at equal pitches, both sides of your central mitre will be equal...hence the beading will match up as will the edges of each board.
But you'll still have a butt joint where the gable-wall siding meets the ceiling. On bead-board, that far overhead, few people would notice.
(Except for you, of course, LOL. You got a coping saw...?)
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.
That idea of the diagonal that's perpencular to the ceiling is starting to grow on me. I think I'll try out a few courses from the top. The peak is so narrow that I won't waste much stock if I don't like it.
No wife, that's why I can afford the new room. Come to think of it, probably why I can afford the whole house. Met a guy a few years ago that had a dozen new Harleys. He said each one was a Christmas gift from him to him for going another year without getting married. The next time I saw him he introduced his fiancee, the nicest woman he'd ever met. The last time I saw him he was selling the bikes to pay off the divorce settlement.
I have seen a picture of a ceiling with a real sunburst, going from the inside to the outside, the boards were t&g custom milled.
If he wants a real sunburst that's the way to go.
Yeah, they'd pretty much have to be. It'd be quite a project; layout each board from the central 'sun' to one ceiling plank, tapering it so it matched the width of the ceiling board at the angle it struck--while allowing for the loss of width the T&G's will entail--then milling the edges and the beading. Not forgetting to number all the pieces, of course....
Dinosaur
A day may come when the courage of men fails,when we forsake our friends and break all bonds of fellowship...
But it is not this day.