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Ceramic tile-to-hardwood transition

Anchorbeam | Posted in Construction Techniques on October 24, 2003 12:22pm

I’m installing ceramic floor tile that will meet up with newly installed, as yet unfinished oak flooring in some places. The two surfaces will end up flush. The hardwood installers said I should just abut the edge of the tile against the oak flooring as opposed to using a “T” molding. They poo-pooed my concern that they might damage the tile while sanding the oak, but, given the level of craftsmanship they showed installing the oak, I think it would be an absolute miracle if they could sand up to the edge of the tile without scratching it. Also, in a previous tile job I abutted it to the hardwood and the result is a little dirt-collecting crack between the 2 materials, suggesting that a molding spanning the transition would look better. I know there are some flooring experts among you, and I am wondering if you can tell me what the “correct” solution is both asthetically and to protect the tile from sanding damage: abut the 2 materials or use a “T” molding to cover the transition? Thanks for your help!

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  1. andybuildz | Oct 26, 2003 06:36pm | #1

    if the floor guys are good then it shouldnt be a problem at all especially being that the edges oF the wood floors are sanded with an edge sanding machine which they have much more control over than the drum sanders.

    If youre concerned, then duct tape a strip of plywood with bottles of expensive beer on the edges of it over the tiled area to keep the floor guys on their toes.

    They can drink the beer if they dont knock em over when the jobs done......lol

    Be floored

                  ANDY

    My life is my practice!

    http://CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM

  2. User avater
    coonass | Oct 26, 2003 06:53pm | #2

    I leave the same grout width as the rest of the floor and use a sanded caulk the same color as the grout. Allows for movement. Why don't you sand the oak at the transition before you lay the tile.

    KK

    1. TLJ | Oct 26, 2003 11:20pm | #3

      I agree. I would not have tile in reach of an unskilled or careless sander driver.

      1. Anchorbeam | Oct 27, 2003 05:03pm | #4

        When I suggested that to the hardwood flooring co. owner he looked at me like I was nuts.  I will do that, however.

        At this point I would like opinions on whether a well-executed low-profile a molding (maybe 3/8" thick, ~2 1/2" wide, nicely bevelled on each edge) spanning the transition would look "low rent", or whether it is considered perfectly acceptable in a high end house.

        1. dumfounder | Oct 27, 2003 05:24pm | #5

          I think the Schluter transition systems avoid the low-rent look; not sure if you've looked at them yet, or if they have a solution to your exact problem:

          http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/overview/productoverview.html

        2. TLJ | Oct 28, 2003 05:17am | #6

          THere are also accessories for laminate floors that might work for you. The trims start with a metal U-shaped track which is fastened down between your two surfaces. Then a transition piece (such as a T-molding or a nosing) is snapped in and laps onto and/or against the two materials.

  3. Scooter1 | Oct 28, 2003 06:51pm | #7

    No "standard way" of doing things.

    I wooden thresholds. Nice thick white oak, with each side beveled.

    A more sanitary look is white marble. Just a 4" slab run accross the doorway.

    A more "modern" look is the Schulter products trim pieces. What you would be looking for is Reno, a brass transition strip between tile and carpet, tile and wood and tile and tile. You can order it through DalTile.

    http://www.schluter.com/english/products/2002/sectiona/overview-a/section-a.html

    Regards,

    Boris

    "Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1934

    1. eggdog23 | Oct 28, 2003 07:35pm | #8

      If you are going to have cut tiles butting up to the wood, it would be better to have a transition because the tile edge is going to be sharp, unless the tile floor is slightly lower than the wood, in which case your feet won't notice.  If you have the beveled tile edge butting up, and its flush, I would lay the tile pretty tight to the wood. The Schulter L-trim under the tile would also give a nice finished look.

    2. stonebm | Oct 28, 2003 08:27pm | #9

      Wouldn't any type of transition that doesn't lap over onto the hardwood eventually form a crack?  I would (no pun intended) think that unless the direction of the wood flooring was perpendicular to the edge of the tile, the seasonal shrink/swell would cause there to be a gap between the wood and whatever transition you could use. 

      The only ways to avoid this are: 1) have the flooring run perpendicular to the tile edge (not something you can really change if it's not); 2) use an overlapping threshold of whatever material you desire; or 3) leave a gap and caulk it.  As for the third option, I don't really like the idea of caulk on a floor.  It doesn't seem like it would hold up.  Thoughts?

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