Replies

1. 
   jc21 | Jun 12, 2002 05:51am | #1

   This link might help http://www.hgtv.com/HGTV/project/0,1158,BDRE_project_24527,00.html

2. 
   jc21 | Jun 12, 2002 06:00am | #2

   Also, check ot the posts (line and terminal posts) before you buy .......... most residential stuff these days is tubing. It works ok but schedule 40 or 80 will give you a lot stronger fence.  Same for the chain link fabric, too. I'd go with 9 ga. vs 11. I'd set the posts deeper than mentioned in the link if you live in frost country.

   
   

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   Edited 6/11/2002 11:05:36 PM ET by jc

1. 
   Handydan | Jun 12, 2002 11:10am | #3

   I have done a few chainlink fences, and have found it best for me  to leave the poles a little high, then string a line at desired height, mark the poles with felt marker, then cut them with tubing cutter.  That top rail should be straight or it all looks pretty sad.  The other big deal is to make sure the wire is as tight as you can pull it, but be carefull that you don't bend the end post.  I like to use a truck bumper or large tree to hook the come along on.  Then don't tie to the post's until after it is stretched tight.  Something that I found out when I had to repair my own fence after an auto mishap, is that filling the post up with runny concrete will sure stiffen them up.  Might consider that at ends, corner, and gate post.  Have fun, and make sure that you unroll the fencing on the rite side of the posts, its a pain to roll up and move over.

   Dan      I must be having a lot of fun, cause I'm not making much money!!

1. 
   cutawooda | Jun 15, 2002 06:26am | #4

   thanks dan,...just what I needed

1. 
   oldpro007 | Jun 15, 2002 02:30pm | #5

   Most chain link here in the south is installed on posts that are DRIVEN into the ground. I don't know how frost and such might affect you in your area. Blowes sells a driver for about $29-39 but weld an additional ten pounds to it for easier driving. When driving in the posts, let go of the driver before it hits the post. On my very first post, I had over a dozen blisters untill I learned how to use the darn thing.  Drivers are like shovels, great to have but hope never to use it again.Old Pro, not quite old, not quite pro, but closer every day on both...

3. 
   Cole | Jun 15, 2002 04:54pm | #6

   Cutawood,

   When you set your posts, set your terminal posts first, corners, ends, etc. and set those 3" taller than the fence height to allow for brace bands and rail ends and post cap.  then make a mark 1.5" lower than the height of the fence on the terminals and pull a string line to set your line post heights.  This will allow for the 1 3/8" top rail on top of the posts.  If there are any significant changes in the grade of a fence line, set the posts at the change to the " height minus 1.5" measurment and fix string to top of post.  After you get done setting a line look at the string and adjust line posts before and after the post set at grade change to give the top a "roll" instead of and abrupt grade change.  Also if the terrain at the terminal posts is not level, you will need to miter the fabric when you hook it up to the terminal post.  Meaning run your tension bar through at an angle and cut away the excess. If this fence is for dogs, put a 12 1/2 gauge twisted barbeless tension wire at the bottom and hog ring the fabric to it to keep the fence tight to the line between line posts.  If you are buying the gate prebuilt, set your gate post opening 4" larger than the outside dimension of the gate to allow for hinges and latch.  I also would not drive the posts but set them in concrete, and try to use 16 ga. tubing for all pipe, and 11.5 ga. fabric if this is residential, or structural pipe and 9 ga. fabric for commercial.  Hope this helps.

   Cole

   Cole Dean

   Dean Contracting

1. 
   cutawooda | Jun 17, 2002 07:59am | #7

   yes it helps a great deal.

1. 
   cameraman | Jun 17, 2002 05:37pm | #8

   http://www.chainlinkinfo.org.