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Chainsaw Mill

amosboy | Posted in Construction Techniques on March 26, 2005 04:16am

Hey- wondered if anybody out there has had experience with those small portable chainsaw mills that run along either metal or wooden 2x guide rails. i have some logs i would like to mill into beams on two sides for a timber frame and its not enough to have a sawyer do it, but too much for me to hew. I see many different types-Alaskan, Grandberg- and they all look similar, but i’m sure they’re not all the same to use. Any info would be much appreciated!

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  1. amosboy | Mar 26, 2005 04:18am | #1

    How weird- a post to myself- Hey self, this is probably in the wrong file! duh. Sorry bout that.

    1. jimblodgett | Mar 26, 2005 04:59am | #2

      See if you can find a copy of the magazine American Woodworker, issue 112, January 2005, scooter.  They have an article about mini sawmills that features 6 or 7 chainsaw mills, plus a few tips for using them effectively. 

      I bought a Logosol mill last year at a woodworking show but haven't committed the time to learn to use it yet.  Sure looks like a good start, though.

       Free speech leads to a free society.

  2. VaTom | Mar 26, 2005 05:58am | #3

    Hi Scooter,

    A friend recently bought an Alaskan and a Stihl 880, 45" bar.  We've cut up a dozen oak logs here, up to 36" d., making beams and rafters.  I was frustrated with the cuttings' size and slow speed, so he kept buying different rip chains.  I wanted to experiment with file angle.  He didn't.

    Finally, last weekend he agreed to refile one chain to what I use for crosscut.  The chip size increased dramatically and cutting speed at least quadrupled, to about bandmill speed.  Quality of cut decreased a little.

    The guide rail is a PITA to set up.  Came with 3" all-thread to adjust to the vagaries of the log.  Surely I'm not the only one with tapered or crooked logs.  Woefully inadequate.  Now we have a selection in 1" increments from 2-5".  Still a PITA to set up, but at least we now can.

    Latest gizmo he bought is a bar attachment that rides on a 5 1/2" rail, which works very well.  The chainsaw, Stihl 039 in my case, pivots on a rotating shaft on the attachment.  It's surprising how fast I can rip, with a crosscut chain, pulling out shavings 2" long.  His motivation in buying was to eliminate one setup of the Alaskan rail.  I think, but am not sure, this attachment is known as a beam machine.  My friend's travelling for the World Bank for a few weeks so I can't ask.  Could take a pic if you want.

    Other than the ability to mill extraordinarily long beams, 50' no problem if you have the tree, I thought these mills were a bad joke.  Now that we're cutting at a reasonable speed, I've had a change of attitude.  He bought his 880 new from Canada, no warranty but only $1k.

    If you're thinking about ripping, I hope you have, or plan to have, a substantial saw.  The bible is Will Malloff's "Chainsaw Lumbermaking", now out of print and around $100 used.  No, you can't have my copy.  <G>  Many years ago I watched Will slab a 40" d. walnut log, using two power heads on the bar and a winch to pull it down the log, in about 3 min./pass.  Lumber was exceptionally clean.  After experimenting, I don't agree with his filing advice, trading off rougher lumber and more frequent sharpening for immensely faster cutting.

    Hope I haven't confused you.

    Edit:  After that Bailey's prompt, I looked.  The gizmo I liked so much is a Micro Mill.  Didn't know it was so expensive ($175).

    PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!



    Edited 3/26/2005 5:51 pm ET by VaTom

    1. User avater
      DaveMason2 | Mar 26, 2005 08:31am | #4

      I'll second that. Tom.

       You will need a decent chainsaw. The ole Craftsman won't cut it, but since you don't have that much to cut then maybe it will be worth it. As VaTom said invest in a chain file or sharpener and use it every two hours it will be worth the effort.

        Good luck, Dave

      1. VaTom | Mar 26, 2005 04:32pm | #5

        Hi Dave,

        Do you know more about this than I do?  This whole filing angle made my head spin.  How can 4 manufacturers not come up with better cutting than I can?  One chain had 2 different types of tooth on each side, talk about a pain to file.  Maybe softwoods cut that much differently?

        I just look at the chips and go from there.  One thing I noticed was the rakers getting real short on the chain we were mostly using.  My friend was using a file holder that had a second (flat) file to automatically set raker height.  I don't like anything automatic, preferring to set it myself.  Turned out he had an undersized round file in the holder and it was heading for the links, taking the rakers down with it.

        When I convinced him to just use the round file we cleaned up the mis-filing and had to hang on to the saw it was so aggressive with the short rakers.  Had the log pointing downhill and probably should have been cutting uphill, it was so aggressive.  But talk about fast, with a power head that large we were flying.  Even so, the chips were a small fraction of what I get with my crosscut chain.  Which is not to ignore difference in filing ability, but what gives?  I use chain down to nubs, and still get respectable cuttings.

        My friend also has a grinder but saw that I do a better job hand-filing and figured he'd better learn.  Still not very good, but I'll give him credit to insist on doing his own, rather than watching me.  The only way to learn.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

  3. buildem2 | Mar 26, 2005 10:11pm | #6

    depending on where you are baileys woodsman supplies has a great catalog you can find them on the web at http://www.baileys-online.com they have a good selection of ripping saw setups.

  4. AndyE | Mar 26, 2005 11:57pm | #7

    Hey Scooter,

    I have an Alaska mill, I think it's the MK11, haven't looked at it in a while. Used it once to slab a pine log with my Stihl 039, 20" bar. Setup was not too bad. Just have to go easy entering and exiting the log. Have lots of wedges handy to keep the kerf open. Took me about 20 min to slab a 12' by 16" pine log. Didn't know anything about ripping chain or refiling the teeth. I built two bucks to hold the log at a comfortable ht, block and fall on a tree to lift the log up onto the bucks. Made a few slabs and then found someone local with a Woodmizer. Great experience, alot of work to do alone. For a single or small log, a reasonable solution.

    If you want mine, make me an offer.

    Andy

    "It seemed like a good idea at the time"

    1. VaTom | Mar 27, 2005 12:39am | #8

      Good idea.  Buy AndyE's.  Then talk to me about filing and get that 20 minutes down to 3.  One thing that helps is to have the log pointing downhill.  Let gravity work for you.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!

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