Replies

1. 
   grpphoto | Sep 13, 2007 06:39am | #1

   Yeah, there's something called "Chair-Loc", but it works by swelling the wood. I don't know if it would work now that the wood is sealed by the Gorilla Glue.

   You could shave the tenon down to the bare wood, clean the glue out of the mortise, and use veneer to fill the gap. If you do, use a real furniture glue, like Elmer's carpenter's wood glue or white glue.

   George Patterson
2. 
   Dinosaur | Sep 13, 2007 06:57am | #2

   View ImageThis stuff is from Lee Valley and it's particularly useful for when you've got one loose leg or rung and don't want to knock the whole chair apart to fix it.

   It works on the swelling principle, too, so I don't know whether your Gorilla Glue treatment would put the kibosh on it.

   If you do wind up taking apart the joint (or whole chair) to reglue it, use Lepage's yellow carpenters glue. Can't beat it; I don't use anything else for any kind of furniture or cabinet work.

   Dinosaur

   How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
   low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
   foolish men call Justice....
   

   

3. 
   Shep | Sep 13, 2007 07:32am | #3

   for regular wood glue to work well and have strength, the joint has to be tight.

   If it's pretty loose, use some structural epoxy.

   But DON'T use epoxy if its ANY kind of antique- the epoxy isn't reversable, and will lower the value of the piece.

1. 
   gblotter | Sep 13, 2007 03:37pm | #4

   Thanks for these suggestions - I agree.

   I don't think the DAP Swell & Lock glue will be able to penetrate the wood because of the Gorilla Glue mishap.  The joint is reasonably tight, but I'm doubtful regular wood glue will work for the same reason.

   No - this is not an antique chair, so I think I will give epoxy a shot.  Any particular type/brand to recommend?