Replies

1. 
   JDRHI | May 30, 2007 06:45pm | #1

   Are the doors edges already beveled for its intended swing?

   Is it weatherstripped already?

   Whole lotta work might be required to make it work properly.

   I'd likely agree with the manufacturer.

   Interior doors aren't such a big deal......but an entry door is a different animal.

   J. D. Reynolds
   Home Improvements

    

    

   
   

1. 
   RT_Mason | May 30, 2007 07:03pm | #3

   Thanks J.D.,It is a fir door and I think it originally came from the manufacturer as a slab and the hinge routings were made on site by the installer. I'll have to verify the bevel though. There is no weatherstripping on the door as it was installed in the jamb.-Rich

2. 
   IMERC | May 30, 2007 07:02pm | #2

   make yur own block outs...
   use larger hinges and set them a bit deeper...
   shave the butt side of the door to loose the old mortises... build jamb to suit..

   red cedar will work if you thru screw the hinge and strike hardware to the framing...
   and close up the RO to absolute working minimum...

   Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

   WOW!!! What a Ride!
   Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

3. 
   BUIC | May 30, 2007 07:42pm | #4

      To re-use the door you'll need to do two things.  Change the direction of the bevel on both edges, and cut new mortises for the hinges.

     On the lock side, if the backset is 2 3/4" (backset is the distance from the edge of the door to the center of the hole for the lock), you could cut and bevel the door so it's 2 3/8".  This way it will still accept a standard latch. 

      On the hinge side cut enough off to remove the old hinge locations, bevel the edge, and mortise for the hinges.

     Now you have a door that's correct with no visible repairs.  If the door was a standard 36", it's now about 35 3/8".

     Since you're making the jamb, just size it to match the new width of your door.

     As to the WR cedar, it's a little soft, but will work.  I'd make my jambs out of 2" x 8".  Using "2 by" will let all the hinge screws get a good bite and let you give the trim a nice 1/4" or 3/8" reveal. 

      Cut the cedar a little wide, then plane or sand the edges and the good face.  Mortise the jamb to match the door and away you go!

     By the way a good alternative for using cedar is mahogany for the jambs.  The color and grain blends in nicely.

       Good luck with it...buic 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 5/30/2007 12:45 pm ET by BUIC

1. 
   Geoffrey | Jun 01, 2007 05:54am | #12

   Why do you bevel the hinge side? I've never seen/heard of this.........I have seen/done  bevel on the hinge mortise itself, but not the full stile of the door, as is done on the stike stile......

                                           Geoff

1. 
   DanH | Jun 01, 2007 06:11am | #13

   One might put a very slight bevel on the hinge side to prevent a "tight" door that doesn't want to close all the way because the hinge side is pressing against the jamb. One might also very slightly bevel the face of the door along the hinge side so that it clears the stop better. But you're correct that the most significant bevel is on the latch side, to prevent interference of the stop corner as it passes the leading edge of the jamb.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

1. 
   Geoffrey | Jun 01, 2007 06:35am | #15

   Dan, 

   I understand the idea of the bevel on the hinge side, I've just never seen it on a residential entry door. I've always adjusted at the hinge mortise itself, either on the door or on the jamb.

   One might also very slightly bevel the face of the door along the hinge side so that it clears the stop better.

   But beveling the face of the door I would frown on completely, setting the hinge at the "proper" backset on the door and then slightly less ( 1/16") on the jamb is the correct way to prevent binding at the stop.

                                                                                     

2. 
   Gene_Davis | Jun 01, 2007 06:14am | #14

   It is not uncommon in commercial work to see bevels on hinge sides of doors, and sometimes it is even a different bevel angle that that on the latch side.  Prevents hinge-side bind.

   Some makers of stave-core doors ship unmachined slabs (door blanks) to machining distributor-jobbers, both edges factory-beveled, so the slabs can be final-machined in either handing.

   Edited 5/31/2007 11:16 pm ET by Gene_Davis

1. 
   Geoffrey | Jun 01, 2007 06:47am | #16

   Gene, when you say it's a different angle, I assume you mean the hinge side bevel is smaller than the latch side bevel, which makes sense.

   Maybe my un-familiarity with this "double bevel" is due to my limited commercial experience, 99% residential work.

   I've noticed most of the slabs I order come square edged, which is why I never have to specify handing when ordering. This is for replacement work, so I can make the bore(s) line-up with the existing strike/latch.

                                                              Geoff

3. 
   BUIC | Jun 01, 2007 07:57am | #17

     Geoff -  Beveling the hinge side helps in a few ways. 

     If the jamb isn't set perfectly square to the face of the door, the door may bind at the end of it's swing as it closes.

      If the door is being painted, the buildup on the edge of the door and jamb, over time and with re-painting, can cause it to bind.

      If it's a wood door and it swells a bit, it'll bind.

      If the hinge screws don't sit perfectly flush in their countersinks, they may bump into each other and make the door spring back.

      Beveling the full edge on the hinge side provides a little relief for all these conditions, with no down side to doing it.  When the door is open it's not obvious. When it's shut the edge is hidden.

     Most door and jamb sets I see have both edges beveled.  Blank slabs are usually square both edges. 

      I bevel all the doors I have to fit. I'll cut the corner on a block of wood to 87 degrees and use it to set the fence on my plane. 

     Most of the steel doors I set are factory beveled on both edges too... buic

      Edit - just read your post to Dan.

      It's not done to prevent the doors edge binding against the stop.  It's so the edge doesn't bind against the face of the jamb... 

   Edited 6/1/2007 1:01 am ET by BUIC

1. 
   RT_Mason | Jun 01, 2007 11:53pm | #18

   Thanks everyone for the great reply's... As a DIY'er... I never noticed the bevel on my doors. I'm guessing I can take this unit to my local door shop to have it planed (there's one down the street).I plan to take on this project later in the summer and will report back the results.Best regards,Rich Mason
   Breckenridge, CO

1. 
   DanH | Jun 01, 2007 11:56pm | #19

   Probably not a bad project on which to learn how to use a hand plane.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   RT_Mason | Jun 02, 2007 12:00am | #20

   One more question...I noticed last night that this door is only 78 5/8 inches tall. While I am not overly tall (6 feet)... it would be nice if it was a full 80 inches. Should I try to extend it at the bottom with a matching piece of fir... or just install it as is with a shorter jamb/frame?Many thanks,Rich Mason
   Breckenridge, CO

3. 
   BUIC | Jun 02, 2007 01:13am | #21

     I would only extend it if there was a door close by and you wanted the height of the heads to line up.  Otherwise dealers choice...buic

4. 
   DanH | May 30, 2007 08:44pm | #5

   This is a wood door? Cut your own filler pieces and glue them in place. Make them a hair oversized and plane/sand them down after the glue has set. For a metal door purchase plates from a locksmith or cut down hinge plates to fit.

   Cedar should work for the jambs. It's a hair more brittle than one might like, though, so be sure to use long screws through the hinges and reenforce around the latch plate. Also, use stuff that's as dry as possible, so you have less shrinkage.

   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
1. 
   JDRHI | May 30, 2007 10:56pm | #6

   I have never used cedar as jamb material, but I gotta think its just way too soft, no?

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

1. 
   DanH | May 30, 2007 11:00pm | #7

   The jamb material doesn't need to be especially hard/strong so long as the hinges and strike are properly anchored.
   So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin

2. 
   IMERC | May 31, 2007 01:43am | #8

   treat the cedar as non-structural facade...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

1. 
   JDRHI | May 31, 2007 03:07am | #9

   I'm just imagining it being highly suseptable to dings.

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements

    

    

1. 
   IMERC | May 31, 2007 03:25am | #10

   it is but in the right decor it adds class...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

   WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

2. 
   JDRHI | May 31, 2007 03:50am | #11

   Ah....well that splains it.

   No one has ever even suggested I show any class.

   ; )

   J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements