Hi all,
I’d like to get some cheap spring miter clamps (the pincer type). I’ve searched online and only found Rockler/Grizzly type clamps that cost almost $40. I only need 4 of them and will maybe use them 2 or 3 times a year…therefore the high end super durable ones sold are overkill for me. I only need to them to clamp the occassional outside miter while the glue sets…I do have a pin nailer but that gets to be cumbersome to glue, hold, and nail…especially outside crown miters.
I checked Lowes, HD, local hardware store, and local lumberyard (Blue Ridge in Hackettstown). No one carries them because evidently they don’t sell well.
Anyone know if a good cheap source for these? Any alternatives?
Replies
I worked with a fellow that made his own out of springs from a chair or couch.He said he cut and sharpened the ends with a Dremel tool. He also made a tool to open the springs, I never saw that tool as he opened the ones he had by hand.Worked very well for mitered joints.The pinholes left were not filled, almost invisible.
mike
I got some little ones from Woodcraft, the kind you don't need a tool for, you just squeeze. But they're a little hard to squeeze, especially up against a wall.I made some once by drilling out a spring clamp to receive a couple of metal framing screws. I used the Pony 3201, 3202, & 3203 styles, but an off-brand clamp would have probably worked better -- the off-brand springs are usually a little wimpier, which is what you want since, up against a wall, you have to squeeze with just the tips of your fingers.I've got a few sets of Ulmia clamps, and the pliers that go with them. They're what I use most, just because they're easier to control. But they were a bit pricey.AitchKay
There was a tip in FHB a couple of years ago - guy made some from PVC pipe. He cut 3 - 4 inch pipe into, maybe 1 inch lengths, then cut out about 1/5 th of the circle, as I remember. He drilled and put some pins in the inside ends, just some cut off nails, I think.
Worth a shot.
Greg
I made these clamps for doing corners. They don't work in ALL situations. But at times they're really slick.
The black lines are to help line up the center of the clamping force.
View Image
Now that there's a pretty cool idear!
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I can't take credit for the idea - I saw some plastic ones that were made like that. But I figured I'd make my own rather than buying them.
Politics is the art of looking for trouble, finding it, misdiagnosing it and then misapplying the wrong remedies.
Boss - that's really cool and I will definitely try that when clamping casing or frames. Right now I need Collins type clamps for outside crown miters.
It would be tough to modify that design for crown miters. You could probably do it if you were working on a workbench. But clamping them in place with something like that would be tough.
Personally I'm always ready to learn, although I do not always like being taught. [Winston Churchill]
do you mean like Collins Clamps?
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Yes. I did check out the Collins clamps. Do you know if they can be squeezed one handed? Or do you really need the pliers?
I can't imagine using them without the pliers
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Yeah, that's the problem with all of the sets. There's a min $30 investment and to be honest, I just won't get that much use out of them. I may just bite the bullet. I've got a list of local lumberyards and hardware stores that I'll check out first.
Then make 'em yourself. I think you'll find the cheap spring clamp/framing screw version easier to use than the wire ones. And you can always back out the screw, and get your spring clamp back for everyday use.If I made another set, though, I'd drill the spring clamp out at the edge, so I could get closer to the wall.AitchKay
I can go a year with out using mine, then wham, I keep finding things to need them for, sometimes things I would not expect.
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"Yes. I did check out the Collins clamps. Do you know if they can be squeezed one handed? Or do you really need the pliers?"without the pliers I can only get them to open about an inch. The problem though is you exert so much to open them that you'll not be able to place them where you want them. The pliers are so easy that you can fit the pieces together then use the clamps with no effort.I have the collins and the pliers. They are well worth the money, even if you only use them once a month or less than that. And were only talking about $30. How much is your time worth? You can do the miters with only titebond. You ever nail the corners of crown and the nails from each side hit the other and pop through the front of the crown? Even for paint grade thats a PITA and takes some time. Have one of those and the collins is FAR cheaper.To me the collins is right there with the kreg jigs and laser levels and must haves not only for their quality and uses but for the speed they give you and they help you produce better quality work.
Yeah, you really can't use them well without the clamps. That's why the Ulmias are my favorites. Why have a handle if it's worthless? And look at the selection of sizes you can get--http://www.mikestools.com/ulmia-miter-clamps_2061.aspxAitchKay
Edited 9/11/2008 8:33 am ET by AitchKay
I've found a good way to set and retrieve Collins clamps without the pliers (though I usually use the pliers).Just open the clamp enough to set one point, slip a finger through the inside of the "jaw" opposite the point just set, pull and set the other point.Here it is in pictures:
I've done that too and its easy to open that way. But when you are trying to fit pieces and use the spring clamps you definitely need the pliers.To the previous post. I've never used the ullima's but I've heard they are much more aggressive and leave significant divots in the wood. Plus the pliers are $60 and the sets are $150. I only use the spring clamps for smaller moldings and crowns, for casings I would get the clam clamps
I must have bought mine when the dollar was stronger. I think It was back in the 80s. I doubt I'd spend the $60 today. But I wouldn't trade them. And you're right -- since the factory grind is a simple angle, they do leave a significant divot if you don't re-sharpen them yourself. That's easily done, though.AitchKay
maybe: http://www.highlandwoodworking.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWCATS&Category=700
You don't need the pliers.
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/routacc3.html#miter_clamps_anchor
scroll down about halfway
Life is short, get the Collins Clamps and pliers.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
emaxx,
I thought along the same lines as for for years.
Few years ago, I picked up the collins clamps and don't now know how I ever got by w/o them. Worth every penny. Like someone else said, life is too short.
Picked up a couple of clam clamps too. Real nice tools.
Harry
If you are up to a little experimentation you could modify the business end of these cheap clamps with a couple of sharp points. Also available at flea markets and big boxes.
I don't think the additional weight over the Collins will make any difference in the application and the points do not have to be inline with the clamp. Offset is the word I want.
http://www.bostonindustrial.com/32suspcl.html
Doing that is NOTHING like using the collins or the other brands. They just don't put the pressure in the right direction.And again, were talking about less than $30 for 4 clamps and the pliers. Would you want to use those homemade ones on some mahogany crown?
That's the kind of clamp I described modifying in my posts, although I used the metal kind. They worked fine.AitchKay
http://www.amazon.com/Ulmia-Spring-Pinch-Clamp-Large/dp/B000M3G5EU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&s=hi&qid=1221180307&sr=1-13
The Maestro is similar to the Ulmia, and the price is right:http://www.amazon.com/Maestro-M1201-Clamp-All-Clamp-Set/dp/B000067S1A/ref=pd_cp_hi_1?pf_rd_p=413863601&pf_rd_s=center-41&pf_rd_t=201&pf_rd_i=B000M3G5EU&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=11X5YGX09DF6Z1P4CQBXAitchKay
Lee Valley
http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=54189&cat=1,43838
I have the Ulmia set and they are the bomb for doing tight glued miter joints, especially on casings. Also great for pre-assembling. Yes, the chisel points are a bit large, but certainly no worse than 15ga. nail holes as far as filling is concerned. The Maestro are good because they have small needle points.
I made some out of old couch or bed springs. They work fine.