At the risk of sounding stupid…….is it practical to paint unfinished oak cabinets? Looking for an easy way to replace some, ummmm…….shoddy ones with less shoddy ones. You know like the one you see at cheapo or blowes?
Or would I be better off buying a truckload of birch ply, poplar and a table saw?
I squeezed Jefferson off a nickel once.
The crew talks about work start times, fire-resistant construction, fixer-uppers, building Larsen trusses, and AI for construction.
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial NowGet instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
Replies
If you're looking to save money then paint is the way to go. Oak is not a great candidate for paint because of the heavy grain. Birch is probably the best. Building new cabinets for a novice is not recommended but could be done with a little patience and a lot of questions.
If money is the key issue then it's a no brainer.
Gary
If you do decide to paint the unfinished oak cabinets, you can use a grain-filler/pore filler to fill the rather aggressive grain. I've used the water-based Timbermate product.
soj
I like the grain effect of oak in paint. Especially nice with darker colors.
What level of sheen do you usually use? Do you any glazing with it, to accentuate/add dimension to the grain and/or profiles?I've done some cabinets with a satin-type sheen (barn red) and they looked good enough to me, but I did prefer ones I did with a grain-fill and a simulated milk-paint finish. soj
(bold enough to paint oak! :^))
I've never done anything to the oak before painting other than a shellac primer. One was a shelf unit that was painted black. Not very shinny, but not flat. The other was a counter that was painted a semi-gloss Blue.
So guys how would it look in red?
(Ask the wife why red)
I'd prime heavy and sand.
then prime again.
then paint ... and paint.
done!
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
You left out something:and paint . . . . . and paint . . . . . and paint some more when the first four coats still don't quite do it. To OP:I have the cheapo oak cabinets in my house. (think late '80's builder grade). They were gettin bad so we primed and painted. Turned out decent if you like the farmhouse kitchen look. As soon as I get the new countertops in, it will be attractive and functional enough to suit me for another 10 years until the kids are through college and I can afford new cabs. I'd be happy to E-mail a pic or two if you'd like. And talk the wife out of red. No, really, talk her out of it. You could buy the $50 SW paint and still curse the Gods for choosing Red halfway through the project. Red's just DON'T cover well.
I'm told with a touch of gray or black in the primer it covers in just THREE coats :O)
Do yourself a favor and take the doors off. when you paint them laying flat it is much better. Paint the backs first and let it dry. Then paint the fronts a couple of times.
Oak has pretty large pores. Red oak more so than white oak. The usual finishing schedule for a flat surface finish (like paint) for oak includes a filler or a coat or two sanding sealer, then prime, then paint. Otherwise, the grain will telegraph through the paint. Which may be fine if that's the look you want. Otherwise, go for a closed grain wood like maple or birch.
Making your own isn't all that hard if you have the tools. Primarily, a table saw with a good blade and dado set, a way to knock down the full sheets (like a circular saw with a good blade and an edge guide), a router table setup and bits to make rails/styles/panels (a dovetail template for dovetailed drawers if you wanna make 'em -- otherwise, you can buy drawers and just make the fronts), a pocket screw jig setup, and a mess of clamps. There are a number of good books on making them, some by Taunton that I'd recommend you look at. Build one out of cheap ply to get the hang of it, and the rest are easy.
If you buy the doors/drawers separately, then the whole thing becomes a project of making a bunch of square ply boxes in different widths. Not exactly rocket science. But if you plan to buy the afforesaid tooling just for this project, it'll be pretty expensive, and it's probably cheaper to buy unfinished cabs.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
The oak cabinets in question are way cheaper than building anything myself and are prefinished on the inside. I haven't been able to find anything paint grade in a comparable price but maybe I haven't been looking in the right place?
J.
Why not stain them, or pickle them, rather than just paint? Or if you do paint, fill the pores first. It's one extra step, and a small PIA, but not too bad.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Long story made short, bottom of garbage disposer rusted out and that turned into new kitchen. Wife want cabinets to match red Kitchen Aid mixer. Now if you can make oak look like cherry that would be a miracle!!!
J.
Maybe stain them instead of paint. Use a tinted stain.
Well, I can make maple look like cherry, pretty much, but oak . . .
Mebbee you could buy her a new KitchenAide in a more convenient shade? May be cheaper in the long run.
BTW, I once did a whole kitchen to match $20 worth of wall paper remnants. Some folks never did figure how priorities work. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
You're probably right but she's always wanted the Kitchen Aid in this color and I wrecked the old one making bread. So......I'm too cheap to pay $400.00 for the one she wanted but I noticed that a Target store didn't change out the floor model during the last model year changeover. Had them scan the bar code on the mixer and it was 39.00. Nothing a little spit shine didn't clean up and its never been used, you never see people mixing cookies at Target to do.
Just like the washer and dryer we got 250 each off of at Lowes because some jackazz dented the side with a pallet jack. When's the last time you saw the side of a washer in dryer stuck in laundry closet?
Keep in mind the current kitchen is wall of Texas Longhorn burnt orange, cream yellow cabinets with a siler striped groove in the middle, 70's beige and orange stick on tile, a beige stove, a stainless dishwasher , and that fake looking wood strip laminate countertop. All I did was add the white side by side refrigerator.
Oh yeah, don't forget you gotta unplug the dishwasher to use the toaster.
Hmmmmm......wonder if I could start a new thread, how to remodel the worlds ugliest kitchen for under two grand, not including applicances....
J.
Check out the finish in the center -- milk-paint red with an "espresso" glaze. http://www.generalfinishes.com/tips/waterbase-finishing-tips/Faux-finishes.htmsoj
I dunno looks to me like you're painting over the wood and then glazing over to simulate wood grain, but I ain't a painter.
It is a really tiny sample to judge from. But yes, you paint the wood, topcoat, and then glaze over that. I'd think you could use the glaze to simulate the grain as you said; or, what I was thinking, rub it in to change the character of the paint, accentuate the existing grain, profiles, etc. Just a good eye and no ultra-special painting skills required. :^)I've not used that particular method I linked you to, but I've done a similar concept in which I've used a brown-tinted wax over red milk paint (and in one case over shellac) and it's given a nice mellow (and distinctive) look to the projects. Good painting, staining, or whatever you decide to do. :^)soj