Replies

1. 
   rjw | Oct 24, 2003 05:53pm | #1

   Where are ypou located?

   In Vt, people pust straw bales around their foundations during the winter, although I wonder about how good an idea that is from a bug point oif view.

   _______________________

   Albert Einstein said it best:

   “Problems,” he said, “cannot be solved at the same level of consciousness that created them.”

   Your mileage may vary ....

2. 
   csnow | Oct 24, 2003 06:02pm | #2

   Tough situation.  Foam is generally not UV stable.  Rubble stone is not flat.  The aesthetics would be terrible for any 'boxed-in' design I can imagine.  Much of the radiant loss is to the ground at shallow depths in a cold climate.

   The cost/benefit ratio would probably be better for working to seal air leaks into the space.  With old stone, the mortar gaps can really add up.  Fixing up the mortar (or lack therof) can help.  Good for rodent blockage too.  You can spray foam around penetrations and other gaps.

   In the larger picture, cold air is drawn into your crawlspace because it is displacing the warm air escaping out of the top of the structure.  It is much easier, and more effective to seal the air 'exits' at the top of the structure.  Leaks at the top lead to cold toes down below...  This is often called 'the stack effect'.

   Best of luck.

1. 
   Job | Oct 24, 2003 07:21pm | #3

   csnow, warmth trumps aesthetics over winter,anyway. I'd remove insul come spring.  Exposed foundation in 2-3' high. Rubble is on 20' N. side, concrete on S 20' and W 15'. Seal gaps in rubble with "Great Stuff"? feasible:? 

   Bob, I;m in NW CT hills.  Straw bales may be good option, as looks not a big issue over winter. Wonder what the chipmunks will think (anybody else being overrun with those critters? Nover seen so many!)  Paul

1. 
   csnow | Oct 24, 2003 07:58pm | #4

   You can seal gaps between stones with foam.

   The downside to this is:

   1) It is not structural, though it may prevent shifting to some extent.

   2) It is very difficult to remove when and if you decide to repair the stones with actual mortar.

   3) It is not UV resistant, and will turn brown and deteriorate in exposed locations.

   On stone foundations, I use mortar to fill stone-to-stone gaps, and foam (or caulk) for stone-to-wood gaps.  Mortar is quite absorbant, and tends to rot the wood it is in contact with. Foam or caulk is also better for sealing around pipes or other protrusions.

   Hey, I grew up in Vermont during the energy crisis, and plastic bags full of leaves were also popular around foundations.  Talk about bugs!  and aesthetics...

2. 
   csnow | Oct 24, 2003 08:22pm | #5

   One more thing:

   You can also seal larger gaps temporarily by stuffing them with plastic bags.

   The big bags for 55 gallon drums are cheap, and work well for this.  You can even put pieces of fiberglass insulation in the bags to 'bulk' them up for a tighter stuff, as needed.

   I use this method to seal areas that are in the process of being repaired, or that I have not yet gotten to. 

   Works far better than one might imagine...