I’m having a new roof put on a rental property, so I decided to go up and repoint the chimney last weekend. I had never done it before and figured I would make my mess before the new roof went on. That part of the project went well (although I have to ask – am I the only one who finds that a finger is the best pointing tool? With a rubber glove of course).
While up there I noticed that the squirrels had chewed up some of the lead flashing, leaving pretty big holes, so I think I’ll go back up today and replace that. I’ve never done this before either, so wondering what to expect. I have a Makita grinder that I’ll use to remove the mortar where the flashing is tucked between the bricks, then just put in new flashing and re-grout. Just that simple, right? How deeply is the flashing typically tucked into the mortar joint? Anything else I should anticipate?
Thanks!
Replies
Google step flashing, counterflashing,reglets, and crickets......around here the roofers think chimney flashing is gobs of roof cement..it drives me to distraction.....
The step flashing should be interwoven with the shingle courses as they go up......which is probably why it doesn't get done correctly very often (typical roofing crews are kids who just want to bang the shingles on & get to Miller time)
Thanks for the reply - most of this stuff I know already - my intent is to get the lead counter flashing in place now and let the roofer do the primary step flashing.
I guess my real question is pretty simple: when I go to grind out the old counter flashing, how deeply should I expect to find it imbedded in the mortar joint? I'm hoping for 1/2 to 1".
3/4" or so is plenty. It's too bad you don't have a roofer doing this for you insterad of just half qualified shingle layers
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Thanks for the info.
Actually, the guy doing the work is an excellent, experienced roofer. We discussed the fact that I would be re-pointing the chimney before he starts, so neither of us spent any time looking at the chimney flashing - my guess is that he would assume that any flashing repair is part of the chimney work, so I don't think he included it in his bid. Rather than wait until he's in the middle of the job to discuss whether or not it's included, I figured I'd just go up there and do it myself now, before he starts. I should have done it while I was re-pointing.
This guy has done a lot of work for me & we get along great.
I see I got wrong impression because I would have inspected chimney and included that work in my bid. I'd hesitate mixing HO work with mine because if it leaks, whose fault is it?
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I get your point - if I didn't have a history with this guy I'd be more worried. We've colaborated on several projects (usuall time and material jobs) and I think there's a mutual respect. He'll inspect my work and tell me if I screw it up. He likes that I always have small filler jobs for him with no time pressure that he can jump to when he has a gap in his workload. We've yet to have a conflict on anything after several years of doing this.
Are you replacing all of the flashing or just a couple of pieces? Me, I would go back with stainless. Lead is cheaper and easier, but it depends on how much you are doing....
3/4" is plenty to go in. If you grind out too much, you can weaken the chimney.
I'm going to try to get away with just replacing the damaged pieces. I've never seen stainless counter-flashing. Is it as flexible as lead? As readily available?
I'm still trying to comprehend how and why squirrels would chew through this stuff.
Lead bends much more easily than stainless, it is much softer. Stainless is also much more expensive, but lasts longer. You gan get rolls or strips at a local roofing supply. you han use padded bench vise to bend small pieces
Who knows why squirrels chew through whatever they chew through? I saw one once munch on some transformer wires, get fried, and then the little carbonized body fell down and set a field on fire...
Train wreck all the way....
Edited 3/30/2006 2:59 pm ET by woodnutter
Must be a regional thing - I've been roofing 20 years specializing in the sheet metal end of it and I've never seen any stainless in a roofing supply house. Copper and lead coated copper are the materials of choice around these parts. We see some lead (usually on stone) and lots of terne and aluminum on lower price projects. I've never seen stainless flashing (although, I've installed lots of stainless chimney caps).I like my sandwiches with three pieces of bread. I think I'll start a club.
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If you live near a coast (Gulf, East, West, etc...) you will run into a lot of stainless. If it is getting mortared into brick, can't use copper. Some munincipalities are forcing people to get rid of ALL lead in the house.
Case in point-
My grandmother in Detroit had recieved a federal grant to fix up her 1870 colonial there. It had leaded, bevel cut glass windows in her house. The city told her that they had to get removed because they had lead cames that were used in the manufacture of her windows. IT DIDN'T MATTER that the house was historic and the windows were original to the house. She also had to have all of her gooseneck toilets replaced because the transitions from the closet flange to the cast iron were lead.
I looked this crapola up and found out that it was true. Okay, fine... I called the city inspector and told him that if that was was the case, the city needs to replace the LEAD water main that leads up to the house. His response was that the city wasn't responsible for work done before 1970....
Hmmmm...
Look it up first! Since this is a blog, and I don't know what the local codes are, I will NOT recommend lead for any use if other materials are available.....
>>>>>>>>>If it is getting mortared into brick, can't use copper. Why?I've seen a lot of flashing on the east and Gulf coasts (although I've not seen all of it) ands I've still never seen stainless.I like my sandwiches with three pieces of bread. I think I'll start a club.
http://grantlogan.net/
Looks Like I am gonna be a busy man...go yank out all them pretty triangles you had me install for the last two yrs.
I figgure I'll be done by 2008. I love job security.
I think I'll take a pass on the job Mark has going for me...looks like a nightmare looking for a place to happen. I don't want it in my shop or front yard, for shure.
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Electrolytic corrosion.....
It gets really humid here. It actually got to 110% for a week here, and I thought that was impossible. We have dew points in the 80's on a regular basis. All that condensation (not to mention the 100" of rain every year) creates an electron exchange between the mortar and the copper. The flashing will fail in about 10 years.
"why squirrels would chew through this stuff."There is probably a gap between framing and masonry, so they want a way in to the nest or nut storage facility in your attic.I too, have never seen SS used for chimney or roof flashing. Too stiff to work easily on site
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I prefer lead waste vent flashings to the neoprene gasket "show the white pvc" type flashings. The down side is squirrels chew the lead when it's frozen outside and the only readily available water is the condensation on the vent stack. The same may be happening at the chimney flashing. If the attic has moisture, it might be becoming liquid at the warm chimney and enticing those rats with pretty tails.I once thought squirrels just liked to chew lead, but they always chew at the top rim where the condensation occurs. These also may be Democratic squirrels. Republican squirrels may have a different agenda.I like my sandwiches with three pieces of bread. I think I'll start a club.
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I wish I had a good comeback for that one, LOL
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