Help!
My name is Wendell, and I contracted to have a new asphalt 3-tab shingle roof installed in my Maryland home (standard colonial built in ’72). The contract called for a complete tearoff (needed some new decking), 15 lb. building paper, 25-year shingles, new flashing cut into the two chimneys, clean-up and debris hauled away. With the expense of such a job, I deceided to plan th start when the temperature would stay relatively mild and clear for a few days and I would take off two days to monitor the work.
Well, two days turned into three and of course, I had to go to work that third day. All was done, except the flashings around the chimneys. The site foreman said he would meet me after work for me to inspect the work. FF to 6pm – up on the roof, I gazed at the chimney over my family room, and much to my surprise and horror, instead of traditional counter flashing cut into the mortar joints between the bricks, smartly marching step-by-step down the side of my chimneys following th slope of my roof, I see one solid piece of aluminum, with the top edge tucked into a groove, parallel the the slope of the roof, THAT WAS CUT INTO BRICKS AND MORTAR AND TOPPED OFF WITH BLACK ROOFING CEMENT!!! The foreman says “this is the way we always do it. ” I admit, I’m no roofer, but I have been on my share of roofs, and I have NEVER seen this.
Now, truth be told, the original (or first replacement roof – I’ve been here 10 years) flashing was NOT cut into the mortar – it was simply cut in a zigzag pattern to LOOK like step flashing from the gound, and “sealed” across the top (thus, of course, this is where the leaks occured and the decking had to be replaced, the ceiling repainted, etc.) In other words, there was no model for the roofer to follow.
Now that the history is laid out, here’s the question: Is this an acceptable method of flashing a chimney? What is the neme of this method? What are the pros and cons of this method? What are the pros and cons of the traditional method of step flashing below and counter flashing cut into the mortar joints? I need some guidance and advice to determine if I should make the roofer rip out the flashing, break out the intentionally cut brick, have a mason re-brick the face of the chimney, and install traditional step flashing – or just accept the job as done.
HELP!!!!!
Wendell Bates
Replies
Well, I can tell you that I had roofers in Maryland do the exact same thing to me (except that I don't believe they cut into the brick). Like you, I had never heard of it, and personally, I do not approve of that method. The roofers told me that all I needed to do was "re-caulk every year or so". To me that is just not acceptable.
The problem is, you probably don't have any legal recourse, unless the contract says something specific. All we can do is warn others, and tell them to specify in the contract how the chimney is to be flashed. I just bit the bullet and paid someone else to re-flash my chimney so that it was done properly.
My recommendation is to find a mason who does flashing and ask him/her what they recommend about the cut brick. And then have them reflash properly. You might be able to get the roofers to come back and patch the roof when the mason is done.
That's a commercial roof detail. I normally only use it when flashing against stone because of the irregularity. In other regions it is used on brick. Tar on new flashing is normally a sign of incompetance. I think I'd get another local opinion and hold up some money until he chimney is reflashed. There's probably only a half inch or so reglet cut into the brick. If the chimney is stepped and countered conventionally, the brick damaged can be covered, so there shouldn't be the need for a mason.
I'll have it done right on schedule...................Mine.
Unfortunately that is the way most roofers flash nowadays. A typical roofing crew has one or two guys who know how to sheath and shingle but won`t tackle any masonary flashing. I roof very seldom now but when I do I take care of the flashing or my older very trusted carpenter.
You could sub out to a chimney guy but you probably couldn`t get him there exactly when the roofers were ready so you would have to tarp off and hope the chimney guy got there fast.
Unless you had the flashing specified in the contract I don`t think the guy ripped you off. The way they did it is not fine homebuilding but if the chimney is up high I doubt you will have any leaking.
That's a terrible way to flash a brick chimney,but it is done that way sometimes.
Greencu had it right when he said you could cut out mortar joints in the traditional way and install new lead counter flashing,then tuck point it in.This will hide the other poor workmanship,and it won't cause problems with your brickwork.
Now as for who to get and who should pay for this work-thats another matter.You could ask for some compensation from your roofer,but that might meet with resistance.If you still hold money tell him you will escrow enough to pay someone competent to complete the work.
Aluminum,no. Copper yes. Tar, no. Elastomeric caulk ,yes. Aluminum reacts with the mortar as water runs over and disintegrates over time(about 10 years or so). Elastomeric caulk good for life of roof,easy.
We straight cut most of our stuff these days, most people don't want to pay to have it done right. 1/2" through brick and mortar,5" face with 1/2" kicker on bottom.
One advantage of the straight cut is the continuos coverage. No vertical seams for blowing water to penetrate. Which is why it is used for commercial work.
I prefer the traditional, but the trend is toward the most economical and efficient.
If the counter flashing was set into a deep enough groove in the chimney, then it should be OK (though the tar is pretty tacky). In fact, doing it this way avoids extra seams in the counter flashing. The bigger issue is down at the roof itself. Hopefully there is step flashing there, and counter flashing laps over it, and the details on the top and bottom edges are handled correctly.
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Note that the technique of stepping the counter flashing was developed when the flashing either had to be set into the mortar as the chimney was built or was cut into the chimney using a hammer and chisel. With the advent of power saws capable of making the diagonal cut, the technique shown above makes more sense, provided the top edge is properly secured.
With the advent of power saws capable of making the diagonal cut, the technique shown above makes more sense, provided the top edge is properly secured.
Maybe, but that method won't fly in the historic districts. I'll have it done right on schedule...................Mine.
Not an expert but it seems like a good system to me. Looks better too.
It is unclear whether that "one solid piece of aluminum" is a counterflashing or is the entire flashing.
If it is a counterflashing - so what if it isn't stepped?
We used to step it because we didn't have the equipment to cut brick until recently and had to chisel out the mortar.
And "aluminum" can mean a number of things.
Can you get some pics?
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Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
Thanks to ALL who have responded!!! This is a GREAT place to get advice. There seems to be a split of opinion on this issue, but that's ok - - this is America! Anyway, I'l try to get some pix and post them, but it will probably be a couple of days before I can get to it (work, ya know!)
From the guy who wishes he had all y'all's skills,
Wendell