I am buiiding a chimney for a wood stove using cement blocks and ceramic liners,, how do I carry the liner inside the block if I dont want to start the liners on ground level?? thanks Square shooter
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
This centuries-old paint offers vapor-permeabiity, maintainability, and longevity with zero VOCs, but know its limitations before you get to work.
Featured Video
SawStop's Portable Tablesaw is Bigger and Better Than BeforeHighlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
Don't forget the clean out.
Build solid to the point where you start the liner.
Typically there is a cleanout about 12-18" off the bottom, then stove connects at a T you make about 24" below ceiling.
Leave a space between the CMUs and the liner. do not directly connect the two.The liner heats up and expands vertically.
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
<<Typically there is a cleanout about 12-18" off the bottom>> That was my point. With the clean out it is very unusual
to start the liner high up in the chimney.
If you are connecting a wood burning stove, I would not use any ceramic tiles, specially in an exterior masonry chimney, for the use of the woodstove. Install a stainless steel flue and all the stainless steel components, Start with a T with a cap at the bottom, that space will be the ash pit that will hold any debris that may drop between cleanings, then connect your flue pipe all the way to the top of the finished chimney, install one terra cotta flue tile at the top with the liner inside then insulate with poured insulation. then finish with a stainless steel chimney cap. The insulation will prevent creating Creosote inside the stainless steel liner.
?????Why build a masonry chimney and then use SS liner?
If going to SS, just use all metal pipe.The benefits you describe are the same with a properly built masonry chimney with clay flue.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Like Piffen said... Also, creosote forms where the hot gases first encounter
a cold surface. The steel cap would have to be detailed very carefully
to prevent air leakage, or you would indeed have to use vermiculite. A traditional chimney with a poured in place concrete cap should be
sealed quite effectively already. In which case the one inch air space
(required by the way) allows the flue to heat up more readily and
remain more consistent through out the firing cycle. One of those instances where reinventing the wheel probably isn't a good idea.
First off, I would use chimney block if they are available. Much faster and looks a lot better.
If you are using regular block, you can use wider block under the first liner or cut in two pieces of heavy angle iron.
As suggested before, don't forget the cleanout. I like to slant the bottom slightly toward the cleanout door.
Use fireclay between the liners and pour vermiculite between the liners and the block as you go up to insulate and isolate the block from the liners.
The first liner should be one with a factory hole in it for best results.
If by chimney block you are referring to a cinder or concrete block that has the flue cast into it I would caution that in some locals (mine for example) that isn't allowed by code.
You must have a flue liner.
Life is Good
I figured he was talking what we call chimney lifts, which are just large CMUs to stack with enough space for the clay liner inside. Can get then as one large "O" or as pairs of "U" shapes.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I thought that may be the case. I have used those myself with liners in the past.
Just wanted to mention the caution if he happened to be referring to the old "chimney block" that had an integral flue is all.
Life is Good
If by chimney block you are referring to a cinder or concrete block that has the flue cast into it I would caution that in some locals (mine for example) that isn't allowed by code.You must have a flue liner.
No, the chimney block I'm referring to is a one piece block that is cast with the right sized opening to accept either a square, rectangular, or round normal clay flue liner.
We use them in sizes up to an 8" x 12" flue liner. Any bigger than that, and you can't lift them. There is about an inch or so of space around the outside of the liner.
Edited 11/25/2009 8:25 am ET by BoJangles
See my above post to Piffin.
Life is Good