Hey guys I am building a house and am putting in a heatilator wood burning fireplace. the chimney pipe will be 19 feet to the top of the chimney. It has about 10″ of clear space around it except ceiling and roof penetrations there, there is 2″. I have been told that “we use double wall all the time on those. And “You can only use class A triple wall stainless on it. Who Is right?
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triple wall here...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
What does the manufacturer say? It should tell you in the install manual exactly what to use.
I will check that toninght. Never thought of that. I guess that is what happens when you work more at you own house each week than my regular 40 hr day job. I'll post tommorrrow
A fireplace that is of the zero-cleaarance type has its own proprietary chiney system. Use that and only that. Anyone who advises different is putting your life and property at risk! I don't have the houir to lecture why. Just make sure the maker of both is the same
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I looked through the intructions and nothing about what type of pipe. I will do a little more research but I am sure triple wall is the way to go.
You wantto convert to triple wall as soon as you enter the unheated area of the structure. This is due to the cooling effect ..the pipe will get built up with crud if not insulated.
In MY install, I have singlewall black pipe up to a chimney support box..this box is made of copper, but I happen to work with the guy that made it, they are available in steel as part of the whole vent kit..storm collar, termination cap, etc. This is where I transition to triple wall.
These parts are specific to the manufacturer, you can't mix and match too easily..I got lucky and have a termination cap/ spark arrestor that fit my Dura-vent brand pipe, without having to purchase the entire kit, that had a slew of parts I didn't need.
Just bear in mind, in the heated area, single wall is fine, in the cold area, you NEED triple wall to avoid condensation and creosote build up.
I seem to think my dura-vent pipe has a lock ring to join the sections..I have 4 2' pipes passing up through a cathedral type cieling..into a false chimney..this is capped with a copper cover which I added a upright flange to, which is then protected with the storm collar which is caulked to the pipe.
Remember to attach everything around the install to allow future access for both cleaning, repair/replacement and MONTHLY inspection...Be anal about inspection and cleaning, your life does depend on it.
Now I hope someone will pipe in ( LOL) about the lifespan of the triplewall SS pipe. I can safely get 3 seasons out of the black
singlewall. I have never studied the lifespan of SS yet, I either moved from the house or dismantled the install.
I practice good wood habits, and burn pretty hot, I also have a complete set up of rods and brush to swab out the flue on a regular basis, sometimes it seems overkill cuz the flue stays so clean, but I make a point of checking on it often.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
"You wantto convert to triple wall as soon as you enter the unheated area of the structure."Wrong thread, Duane. This is a fireplace, not a wood stove
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Thank you for the correction.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.
Lemmee do this again.You have a cerain kind of fireplace unit. Let's say it is made by Majestic, for purpose of discussion. ( Majestic is owned by Vermont castings now or the other way around, and is manufatured in canada, except for the ones they outsource from the orient, but that's a different discussion)
So anyway, whatever brand unit you have, you then measure the exhaust hole. It is probably 8"
Then you buy a majestic 8" chimney pipe for their fireplace. You cannot use a generic 8" triple wall on a majestic fireplace. you can use generic pipe for wood stoves, but not for fireplaces.
If the name brand of the firplace is "ABC hoosierdaddy puff" with a 7" exhaust, then the ONLY pipe you can use is a "ABC hoosierdaddy puff" 7" pipe, unless the manufacturers instructions say that the XYZ pipe is acceptable.Here is why,
Two reasons,
The unit was tested and recieved its seal of approval from UL, Betty Crocker and whoever else ios approving heat appliances nowdays by being tested under certain given conditions with the defined pipe attached to it. That is the way it has to be tested for code and common sense.second reason - The way these units get zero-clearance ratings is with a certain controled circulation of the air in the unit, in th eflue, in the walls of both and with radiant shielding provided by the way the walls are arranged. Change one portion of that formula, and you endanger the whole system. There are some that use the air flow in the triple wall pipe integral with the air in the walls of the appliance, while others use the air circulation and baffling separately. Mix and match and there can be great heat buildup that endangers your life and property. so, you have to discover what brand this is, then buy that brand of pipe. You look at the instructions to find out how to install and assemble it, but not neccessarily how to buy it.
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It is a heatilator. Radiant model 36" I looked through the entire maual yeasterday and found nothing on what brand to use. I am going to the supply house tommorrowk, they should be able to help also.
"Uses economical SL300 air-cooled, snap-lock chimney system Tested and listed to UL standards""Must be installed with the HTI SL series chimney system"Those are just a couple example quotes from install literature.Go here
http://www.heatilator.com/products/fireplaces/index.aspand in the center, choose "Woodburning and the model you own from the drop down menu. That will bring you to a brief description page. That page will have a link to PDF files of both the product brochure and the installation instructions.The installation instructions will specify exactly what pipe is called for as in the above examples. Maybe you are reading the product brochure instead of the install instructions. In any case, the place you bought it should not have any trouble getting you the right pipe for it, given the make and model. That is unless dear cousin Bubbba is standing there behind the counter half in the bag.
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sorry I missed that and wasted some of you guys time. I guess that is what happens when you work 70 hrs. a week. Thanks
No problemo.
'Twas a fgood research excercise
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I think you have an Accelerator 36" Radiant, listed as A36R.
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Not only that, but you no doubt void any manufacturer warranty.
I just looked a one of the Heatilator brochures I recently received. This looks like it's a brochure to just let you know the options Heatilator provides, but nothing more specific than, depending on what model you have, your vent options are "B" type vent, direct vent (top or rear). Your better off going online to heatilator.com and/or fireplace.com. I'm sure there are better product material literature on the heatilator than I was sent.
B vent only if it is the gas log option
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Yes, that's correct.