FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter X Instagram Tiktok YouTube Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe
Log In
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Restoration
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
Log In

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

Chimney repair above an asbestos roof

RichBeckman | Posted in General Discussion on July 2, 2005 08:43am

I understand the best choice would be to use a lift. But that would require removing an vine covered arbor and cutting down a bush or two.

So how fragile are the asbestos shingles generally??

I envision a scaffold setting on plywood with cushioning under it!

But I don’t know.

Thoughts please.

Thanks.

Rich Beckman

Another day, another tool.

Reply
  • X
  • facebook
  • linkedin
  • pinterest
  • email
  • add to favorites Log in or Sign up to save your favorite articles

Replies

  1. theslateman | Jul 02, 2005 12:54pm | #1

    That type of asbestos shingle can be treated as slate for removal and re laying .

    If you have a slater's ripper you could remove some in strategic places to enable you to set stagings and then put them back in with slate hooks after you're finished.

    Do you have a set of chimney bracket scaffolds? That would make the set up real solid and easy to work from.

    You could pad them and do as you suggest too,but it will be more secure and safer if you nail thru where you have removed tiles.

    1. User avater
      RichBeckman | Jul 02, 2005 03:50pm | #3

      Slateman,Really? Remove and replace the shingles?! That never occured to me!I don't have a ripper. And I'm not sure I want to try that. I'll have to think that over.If I do not use a lift, I was going to be securing the "scaffolding" by hooking over the ridge. The padding would only be to protect the shingles.Thanks.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

  2. Hazlett | Jul 02, 2005 01:39pm | #2

     what are you doing to the chimney , Rich?

     Try using a couple of hook ladders---one on each side of the chimney.. If you need to----additionally you can use some ladder jacks on the hook ladders and run a plank in between.

    Stephen

    1. User avater
      RichBeckman | Jul 02, 2005 03:58pm | #4

      Stephen,The top couple of feet of the chimney has virtually no mortar left. I tried to interest the homeowner in fixing it a couple of years ago when I noticed I could see daylight coming all the way through.She wasn't interested then, but now that a few bricks have fallen..."Try using a couple of hook ladders---one on each side of the chimney"That sounds fine. How much danger is there of breaking a shingle?Thanks.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

      1. theslateman | Jul 02, 2005 07:31pm | #5

        Stephen's idea is a good one .I've topped out chimneys off ladders and brackets over the ridge,but it's tight to the chimney that way.Vanguard makes a chimney scaffold with an adjustable set of supports to make the top platform level.

        It also will accept lifts of pipe staging since it's the same 5'x7' dimension as standard frames.That way you can have a nice wide platform to work from.

        A lot of masons in my area have me set staging for them when it's a "hard" roof,meaning slate,tile or asbestos.Maybe you've got someone nearby to do the same for you.

    2. Hazlett | Jul 02, 2005 10:18pm | #8

        Rich,

       the ones I have been on---the tiles are quite durable and flat. there was a little flex to 'em---not like that asbestos  tile siding which is brittle as hell.

      I am assuming that chimney is close to the ridge---so it's not high above the roof line?????.

      I would do it from 2 hook ladders-----maybe not even the  plank between'em.

      One warning though---- those lichens and moss and stuff growing on 'em??????

      slippery as effen hell!!!!!---unbelievably slippery when damp even from dew---so watch out.

       I haven't broke any yet------but If I did, I have a yard 40 minutes away that sells reclaimed slate, tile etc. that I could get a reasonable repair piece from.

      that availability seems to gauranty that I don't break any----if they really were irreplaceable---then I would be sure to break a few!!! LOL

      BTW---you aren't being suckered into this by a little old lady with no money are you???

      Stephen

      1. Piffin | Jul 02, 2005 11:26pm | #10

        My butt has never hit bottom so fast as when I stepped on damp moss on an asbestos roof! 

         

        Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

        1. theslateman | Jul 03, 2005 01:19am | #11

          The moss issue brings up a good point of interest.Yes the roof becomes very slippery when damp moss is on it,but the real concern is that moss indicates the softening of the cement so that it can act as a host for the moss to grow.With that overhanging tree the roof stays more shaded and damp and the tiles after 75 years or more become softer and will then develop moss on them.This is a signal that the roof is nearing the end of it's useful life.

          I'm currently removing about 60 sq.'s of diamond shaped asbestos tiles-properly disposing of same at 100/ton plus transport costs.The new roof is North Country black slate from Quebec.

          1. seeyou | Jul 03, 2005 01:26am | #12

            I'm currently removing about 60 sq.'s of diamond shaped asbestos tiles-properly disposing of same at 100/ton plus transport costs

            You considered hanging on to a couple or three squares to sell for repairs? I've seen at least one person a year on this forum looking for same.OOPS, I did it again.............................

          2. theslateman | Jul 03, 2005 02:38am | #13

            Yes,I always have on hand replacements for my needs in repairing old roofs.

            DEP wants to know I have a manifest for licensed disposal,but I do save some out.

            Same for slate salvage,save roofs that others want changed over to Architecturals or if a building is coming down.

          3. Hazlett | Jul 03, 2005 02:36pm | #14

             thanks for the info slateman---

            that explains why---when I encounter them they seem to have a slight bit of flex to 'em------not really brittle.

            stephen

        2. Hazlett | Jul 03, 2005 02:46pm | #15

           piffen,

           I wouldn't do it now---but,

           the first entire house roof I did---after going into business for my self------- I did solo. It was a tear-off with these asbestos tiles.

          I had a 2x8 on roof jacks at the  roof edge and a hook ladder up to the ridge.

          when I found out how slippery that dew covered lichen/moss/fungus stuff was------

           I spent about 5 minutes using that roof like a sliding board from the ridge to the  2x8 ( about 16 feet)

           In hind sight--it was stupid as  all get out----I had  a stay at home wife and 2 kids under 24 months old-----------

           but for those few minutes I was free, Free ,FREE----I was out of the chrome plating shop, in business for my self and  under the open sky! What could be better?

          I still see that house quite frequently----not every day---but almost every week.

           Stephen

          1. Piffin | Jul 03, 2005 06:25pm | #16

            My memories are a bit more painful 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          2. rich1 | Jul 04, 2005 12:05am | #17

            Rich, before you tackle the repair, why is the mortar gone? Usually because of no liner and the chimney is oversized. What is the condition of the mortar farther down. I've seen chimneys that were leaking exhaust gases into the house. Be careful. You touch it, you bought it.

          3. User avater
            RichBeckman | Jul 04, 2005 02:16am | #18

            "... why is the mortar gone? Usually because of no liner and the chimney is oversized. What is the condition of the mortar farther down. I've seen chimneys that were leaking exhaust gases into the house. Be careful. You touch it, you bought it."Ah HA!!!Yes, when I was there the voice in the back of my mind was trying to say something about "no liner".I don't fully understand how no liner and oversized leads to missing mortar...But I'm nearly certain that there is no liner.I guess a real chimney expert should be looking at this.Thanks to all!Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

          4. Piffin | Jul 04, 2005 02:30am | #19

            Oversized means the draft is slower moving gasses out. that results in more precipitates and condensates = more sulphuric acid to eat the mortar 

             

            Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

          5. theslateman | Jul 04, 2005 03:59am | #20

            Rich,

            When that house was built it was not uncommon to build unlined chimneys using lime mortar .It's very common for a chimney so old to need to be re-topped,there are lots of them in every town in similar stages of deterioration.

            It's understandable if you don't feel comfortable doing this job,but it's really no big deal to complete this repair.Why not sub it out to a mason friend?

          6. User avater
            RichBeckman | Jul 04, 2005 09:00am | #22

            Well, I was just getting comfortable with the idea of doing the job when the missing liner was brought up.But having had time to think about it, maybe I'm willing to install a liner (or sub that part of the job).I'll try to look at it and talk to the homeowner again on Tuesday.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.

          7. theslateman | Jul 04, 2005 01:09pm | #23

            A liner doesn't need to be installed at this time.The chimney needs to be repaired so that bricks don't harm the roof or passersby.The boiler or furnace has functioned without a liner for who knows how long.

            In Maine if you were to install a new boiler on that chimney then code states it must be lined for your mechanic to legally install it.A functioning unit can remain indefinately.

          8. rich1 | Jul 05, 2005 02:38am | #25

            You are right, it doesn't  have to be lined, but the fact is, the chimney has failed.  Why would you not repair it properly?

             

             

             

          9. theslateman | Jul 05, 2005 02:58am | #26

            From Rich Beckmans first post it seemed that money might be a concern since the lady held off a year or so until bricks actually fell.

            It does make much sense to do both with one roof set up if the budget will allow.

            My point was that they could be done one at a time,but you're also correct it would be better to combine the work.

          10. Hazlett | Jul 04, 2005 01:41pm | #24

             slateman----and  Rich,

             another thing about missing flue liners------

             I have found a lot of chimneys that ARE lined with clay flues----but the flues sections don't reach all the way to the top of the chimney. the flue sections stop several feet below the the top of the chimney. Often the top 4 feet of the chimney needs rebuilt, and on lower pitched roofs, or chimneys near the ridge----we re-build from the roof line up.

            In fact, rich and I may have had a brief conversation about this on another occasion.

            It's definite;y a " profit opportunity" for you Rich----I stumble across a few of these every year or so and it's always a nice score------plus the sub does the real work( somes I labor for him and hump the bricks up and down the ladder for him-, and bucket the mud up to the roof for him.

            Best wishes, Stephen

          11. rich1 | Jul 04, 2005 05:43am | #21

            Don't forget, if a liner is installed, the chimney should still be repaired. There still may be work for you, if you really like working on slippery roofs. LOL.

  3. User avater
    rjw | Jul 02, 2005 07:50pm | #6

    My experience (limited) is that they are more brittle than slate. (there were several different thicknesses, from what I have seen, and the thinner ones would almost certainly be more brittle than the thicker.)

    I'd be cautious about using a ripper and removing them, unless you know some old roofers who have a stash they use for repairs.


    View Image
    Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
  4. Piffin | Jul 02, 2005 08:12pm | #7

    It would be possible for an experienced hand like the Slateman to rem,ove and save for re-installation

    But

    In the photo, I see a couple with broken corners already and I bel;ieve I see one at the upper chimney corner well beedded to the criket flashing with caulk, suggesting previous repairs. I would figure on losing a third of these to breakage if I were removing them, based on previous experiences with asbestos shingles. On easy good ones you can lose 5-10% anyway So find a source for replacements first.

    But then you might end up looking for replacements even if you do the scaffold over it deal with cushions.

    My concern would be a disclaimer and disavowing futrure responsibility on this deal, if a lawyer could write me a good loophole, and adding a generous risk factor. The whole thing couild escalate - you fail to find replacements, than it leaks and you have to replace the whole roof, then you find how hifgh costs for disposing olde asabestos is, then you meet the bankruptcy judge, then you...

    Naaw, I might just pass on this one

     

     

    Welcome to the
    Taunton University of
    Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
     where ...
    Excellence is its own reward!

    1. theslateman | Jul 02, 2005 10:22pm | #9

      Rich,

      If you think replacements are in order than find some first as others have suggested.

      A source to look for them might be http://www.jenkinsslate.com

      They have several names of recycled asbestos shingle salvagers-although I bet there are roofers locally that would have some that match whats on this roof.That can't be the only house with those shingles in your town.

      Lots of times there are extras stored in the cellar or attic of the home itself since most good roofers would leave spares for future replacement on a roof expected to last for 80 to 100 years.

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Choosing a Paintbrush

Tips for picking the right paintbrush based on paint type, surface, and personal comfort.

Featured Video

Builder’s Advocate: An Interview With Viewrail

Learn more about affordable, modern floating stairs, from design to manufacturing to installation.

Related Stories

  • Podcast Episode 695: Saving Bricks, Cut-and-Cobble Insulation, and Waterproofing Foundations
  • FHB Podcast Segment: Waterproofing Below-Grade Foundation Walls
  • Midcentury Home for a Modern Family
  • The New Old Colonial

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Fine Homebuilding Podcast
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 333 - August/September 2025
    • A Practical Perfect Wall
    • Landscape Lighting Essentials
    • Repairing a Modern Window Sash
  • Issue 332 - July 2025
    • Custom Built-ins With Job-Site Tools
    • Fight House Fires Through Design
    • Making the Move to Multifamily
  • Issue 331 - June 2025
    • A More Resilient Roof
    • Tool Test: You Need a Drywall Sander
    • Ducted vs. Ductless Heat Pumps
  • Issue 330 - April/May 2025
    • Deck Details for Durability
    • FAQs on HPWHs
    • 10 Tips for a Long-Lasting Paint Job
  • Issue 329 - Feb/Mar 2025
    • Smart Foundation for a Small Addition
    • A Kominka Comes West
    • Making Small Kitchens Work

Fine Home Building

Newsletter Sign-up

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox.

  • Green Building Advisor

    Building science and energy efficiency advice, plus special offers, in your inbox.

  • Old House Journal

    Repair, renovation, and restoration tips, plus special offers, in your inbox.

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Follow

  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
  • Fine Homebuilding

    Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X
    • LinkedIn
  • GBA Prime

    Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.

    Start Free Trial Now
    • Facebook
    • YouTube
  • Old House Journal

    Learn how to restore, repair, update, and decorate your home.

    Subscribe Now
    • Facebook
    • Instagram
    • X

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell or share my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2025 Active Interest Media. All rights reserved.

Fine Homebuilding receives a commission for items purchased through links on this site, including Amazon Associates and other affiliate advertising programs.

  • Home Group
  • Antique Trader
  • Arts & Crafts Homes
  • Bank Note Reporter
  • Cabin Life
  • Cuisine at Home
  • Fine Gardening
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Green Building Advisor
  • Garden Gate
  • Horticulture
  • Keep Craft Alive
  • Log Home Living
  • Military Trader/Vehicles
  • Numismatic News
  • Numismaster
  • Old Cars Weekly
  • Old House Journal
  • Period Homes
  • Popular Woodworking
  • Script
  • ShopNotes
  • Sports Collectors Digest
  • Threads
  • Timber Home Living
  • Traditional Building
  • Woodsmith
  • World Coin News
  • Writer's Digest
Active Interest Media logo
X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Online Learning

  • Courses
  • Project Guides
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • FHB House
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Signing you up...

This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters
See all newsletters

Follow

  • X
  • YouTube
  • instagram
  • facebook
  • pinterest
  • Tiktok

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to 70%

Subscribe

Enjoy unlimited access to Fine Homebuilding. Join Now

Already a member? Log in

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in

Privacy Policy Update

We use cookies, pixels, script and other tracking technologies to analyze and improve our service, to improve and personalize content, and for advertising to you. We also share information about your use of our site with third-party social media, advertising and analytics partners. You can view our Privacy Policy here and our Terms of Use here.

Cookies

Analytics

These cookies help us track site metrics to improve our sites and provide a better user experience.

Advertising/Social Media

These cookies are used to serve advertisements aligned with your interests.

Essential

These cookies are required to provide basic functions like page navigation and access to secure areas of the website.

Delete My Data

Delete all cookies and associated data