I am working on a job to replace a kitchen linoleum floor with hardwood. I need to remove a layer of 3/4″ plywood in order to have the adjoining rooms (floors) line up flush with the new hardwood. There is a layer of 1″x 8″ stock between the joists and the 3/4″ plywood.
Without removing the existing cabinets, I need to remove the subfloor that is under a 3-1/2″ by 3-1/2″ cabinet toe kick.
My initial thought was to use a battery operated 3-3/8″ Makita circular saw, but that is too high and won’t fit under the toe kick. I have a 10″ blade for a sawzall, but that seems too unstable. I have a 4″ grinder, but I don’t want to rip my face off…
Can you tell me what is the right TOOL for the job?
Replies
Hi, Chris-
Use the Sawzall with a new (sharp) 12" blade. The blade length is key because you will spring it against the kick to saw down flush with it. Cut down slightly into the 1x8. Usually you will install trim on the kick which will cover any marring caused by the blade action- it will also cover the edge of the flooring after you install it.
Good luck, Ken Hill.
Many times I've wondered why the blade mfgs. can't or won't make a blade with an upturned (and toothed) tip for starting plunge cuts like this. I sent an inquiry to one mfg. and heard zippo.
Back to the toe kick...Milwaukie (and probably the others) make a flush-cut offset assessory that doesn't cost much and it's pretty handy at times.
The right tool? toe kick saw The next time I have $250 to hide on a shelf I will buy one.
Me, long sawzall blade, or knife it and snap. I bet you could mount a blade to a drill to do the same thing, and I might just rig up something like that the next time around.
chris fein tools make a tool called a multi- tasker or master . triangle sander, saw plus alot of neat little attachments , give a look see under there web page . the address escapes at this time , sorry for being so vague. but for the sake of expediency. cheers the bear
That little Fein tool is great...not so expensive as they one were....lots of blade choices. I would probably not use it on the subfloor application though because it would take forever...but if I did, I'd use the offset half-round metal cutting blade in case there were nails...and there will be.
The tool is less expensive (about $156 here, but the blades are spendy...the one I mentioned is about $45)
notch- they are pricey, but i figured on the the more visible area it would be worth it. i do love that muti-master, i do alot of historical renovation work and that tool is indespenseable. for numerous apps. cheers bear
Bear,
Hope you're not the bear that tore my leg up a few years back!
The Fien tool is great for renovations...like taking out a clean line of shingles around a window and trimming out right to your removal line and not having to repair/replace shingles...or that putty/caulk removal blade...I even timmed 3/8" off a steel door bottom; perfect cut!
And I don't even own stock in the company!
YUM-YUM
had same problem once i ended up moving the cabinets , nothing is ever easy is it???? . try dremel tool with flex shaft , they have slution for everything they claim ha,ha , but it might work for a short cut in floor. get about 10 so when one burns out you have anotherone to keep working, had 3 burn out in 4 mo, used them very little. just had to slam dremel..
All right, time to vote....assuming that Chris goes with the Fein tool, which blade does he use?
http://feinus.com/multimaster/newimages/newcutting.htm
The flush cut if he wants to get in tight and smooth, but I'd go with the segmented metal cutting to score it. With the segmented you can get into the corners. If he cuts clear down he'll back cut about 20 degrees but so what? The segmented blade is more versatile and costs less. But you know that, right?
Edited 4/18/2002 9:24:57 AM ET by Notchman