Replies

1. 
   calvin | Mar 15, 2010 08:55pm | #1

   Best of luck

   Draw continuous straight lines that are the outside and inside of the two pcs of trims.  These lines will cross each other.  I realize that the curved one will continue to curve.  Where these lines cross are the possible cut lines of the ends of the trims.

   cut out some strips of paper, paperboard, or cardboard to verify what I'm mumbling is true-put them together on the wall as if they were the trim.

   You'll have to hold the curved one on the saw in position-or put a sacrificial board on the bed of your saw-fix it somehow and then add stops to hold the flextrim in position.

2. 
   DanH | Mar 15, 2010 09:21pm | #2

   The basic rule is to divide the angle in half, if the two pieces are the same width.  Think about it:  A straight piece is 180 degrees, and if you cut two pieces at 90 degrees (ie, square cuts) they'll fit together into 180 degrees.  Likewise, for a 90-degree joint you cut the pieces at 45 degrees.

   In your case the angle of the pieces near the joint will likely be something larger than 90 degrees -- say 110 degrees.  So divide 110 in half to get 55 degrees -- cut the ends at 55 degrees and they'll fit together in a 110 degree angle.

   Of course, with a curved piece you have to extrapolate, sort of, to get the angle at the junction point -- you can't just slap a protractor on the curved piece.  So some eyeballing is required.  What you want is the angle at the joint, not some average angle for the last several inches.

3. 
   calvin | Mar 15, 2010 11:20pm | #3

   Fit the straight to the curved

   After you figure the bisected angle-cut the curve and place it.  Then cut the straights-easier to cut, fit and pay for if you screw up.

   We're assuming the curve dies into the lower windows. 

   You got a picture of what exactly you're working with?

1. 
   brandon1992 | Mar 16, 2010 03:46pm | #4

   no pics my camera is broke, i will try the ideas you guys have given me. Ill let you know how it goes

1. 
   calvin | Mar 16, 2010 05:29pm | #5

   What'choo got.

   Is it a half circle window sitting on top of two windows and the outside dimension is the same?

   or is it what I am most used to:  smaller half circle window on top of another with flanking windows off both sides?

   or an arch top?

1. 
   brandon1992 | Mar 16, 2010 10:01pm | #6

   Its a Andersen circle top, it sit on top of two casements. The horizontal base of the circle top is the same width as the casements and sits on top of them. Some may call it an arch window or round top but it is not an elliptical. I hope this helps

1. 
   calvin | Mar 16, 2010 10:10pm | #7

   OK

   Then I'm thinking at the point they meet they are almost a square cut, no?

2. 
   brandon1992 | Mar 16, 2010 11:44pm | #8

   Yes, but i dont want to butt them

3. 
   calvin | Mar 17, 2010 06:06am | #9

   I apologize brandon for being thick headed.  If the joint is almost straight, the mitre cut is only going to be a bit off a 90 degree cut on your saw.  On casing there's a mitre cut and no bevel.  Doesn't make a difference if 2-45's or 2-7's.

   You mention you don't want to use a lap joint in the first post, so that leaves out beveling the cut.  I'm sort of lost now.

   A good joint is one that becomes invisible, as if the wood just bent around, all the lines of detail meet up and blend.  I think no matter what you do to achieve this a bisquit in that transition would be good to keep the registration.  However, I've never stuck a bisquit in flex trim.  You are using that rubbery trim for the curve, right?

   Best of luck.

4. 
   Snort | Mar 17, 2010 07:24pm | #10

   Yes, but i dont want to butt them

   Is that for a challenge, or some other reason? I'm assuming it's paint grade, actually hoping<G>. Flex trim profiles rarely match stock wood trim exactly... you will have to do some fairing, shimming, and general cajoling.  And, unless you install the flex within the temperature swings of the finished house, it will move, pucker, pull, or push.

   Or, maybe you're talking about joining bevel cuts?

5. 
   brandon1992 | Mar 17, 2010 10:09pm | #12

   The flex trim matches the Windsor One moulding exactly. It was made for that exact circle top and is made out of a hard dense rubber, i bet that sucker weighs 20 pounds. I have made a small template out of cardboard and will be trying it out tomorrow. All you guys have been great, Thanks

4. 
   Gene_Davis | Mar 17, 2010 07:46pm | #11

   Which is it?

   Circle top or springline arch?

   Whichever way, a tangent line is drawn to the arc where the arc meets the straight (side).  You draw a line on the wall where your outboard molding edge goes vertical, at your straight side, then another line parallel to that line tangent to the arc, also at the molding width. 

   Connect the outside corner and inside intersect, and that is your miter line.  Use a couple pieces of scrap straight molding, to help draw these lines, and to mark for setting your miter saw.

   
1. 
   brandon1992 | Mar 17, 2010 10:12pm | #13

   Gene, its its the circle top just like your pic

5. 
   Joe | Mar 18, 2010 09:10am | #14

   Here are some pictures that might help:

   http://picasaweb.google.com/josephfusco.jr/ArchedWindowTrim#