Circular saws vs Framing Saws (Specifically Ridgid Fuego)
At the risk of asking a dumb question, I’m a little confused when it comes to buying a circular saw.
I’m currently in the market for a circular saw. I will mostly be using the saw to cut 2×4’s for framing but I also interested in a saw that I can use to rip MDF/Plywood for making formica countertops. The saw I’m most interested in the Ridgid Fuego Framing Saw. This has also caused me some confusion though. I like the lighter weight and smaller size of the Feugo but I’m worried that it may only be used for rough cuts and I wouldn’t be able to rip sheets of MDF.
I guess my question would be. Can the Fuego be used to rip sheets of MDF accurately? What about cutting length off doors and for trim work? Does the fence on the Fuego allow the saw to be used easily with a straight edge?
I know this may seem kind of obvious but I’m a little overwhelmed by all the different choices, so any advice would be appreciated.
Replies
jt
I'm sorry, have no experience or information on the Fuego-tho the rear fenders cracked on a car by the same name.
The saw I have used for framing, applicable finish, former countertop deck making, door triming etc is almost 40 yrs old. A good saw, no vibration, good blade run and registration to the base, and reliable.
Now I use a sliding mitre saw and track saw.
Before I would use jigs, guides and shooting boards to attempt the same projects. While the results were comparable, the set up time and effort necessary to produce quality resuts was much more time consuming. It was said when I started out in the trade that a circular saw was all you needed to build a house start to finish. While that is probably still true, the improvements made in dedicated tools have made the idea a bit antiquated.
First of all, I don't own the Ridgid Fuego, so my comments are not based on personal experience. Having said that, the only negative comments I've ever heard are that it may not be quite as rugged as a professional 7-1/4 circular saw when subjected to job site abuse. This is probably not a consideration unless you plan on doing production framing. It also will not cut as deep (2-1/8" vs about 2-1/2"), but that doesn't seem like an issue in the real world because it's pretty rare to use a circular saw for such deep cuts anyway.
I don't know why the call it a "framing" saw, but I suspect that it's to dispel the notion that the Fuego is somehow not up to task of traditional circular or wormdrive saws. Wormdrive saws, btw, are an excellent choice for serious framing where their design, weight (sometimes heavier is a good thing) and ruggedness are well-suited. I've done plenty of framing with a circular saw and I don't plan on buying a worm drive because I'm not a full-time framer.
The Fuego will be just as good for cutting sheet goods as any circular saw. Maybe better because it's lighter weight should provide better control. I'm sure it has enough power. The quality of your cuts will depend more on technique/skill than it will on which saw you choose. If you're cutting a lot of MDF, keep an eye on the blade because it will dull a little quicker cutting MDF than plywood. That, of course, is true for any saw.
Instead of a straight edge, consider making a simple shooting board to reduce edge splintering. If you don't know what a shooting board is, google it or ask.
I already own 3 circular saws so I'm not in the market for another one right now, but if I was only buying one, I would seriously consider the Fuego.
Many years ago I bought a cheapie B&D circ saw and got one of their 5-1/2" saws for free in the deal. Didn't quite know what to do with it (a bit underpowered/underbladed for framing, etc), but I discovered that it made a pretty good panel saw. The light weight made it easy to control on the "reach" when cutting a 4x8 sheet, and with a decent quality plywood blade it made exceptionally clean cuts. (Couldn't find a veneer blade in that size, though.) Ditched the big saw about 15 years back (traded for a PC), but still have the little one.
My ex-BIL had a very nice PC 6-1/2" saw years back. He was part-time construction and used it for all his work. Lighter and easier to handle that the full-sized units, but didn't lack for power and made sweet cuts.
I've heard nothing but good things about the Fuego. I have the Ridgid worm drive and I love it.
I hear JunkHound tried to build his own worm drive but they kept slipping out of the harnesses.
I thought he just bought worm drives at garage sales for 50 cents each.
>>>I hear JunkHound tried to
>>>I hear JunkHound tried to build his own worm drive but they kept slipping out of the harnesses.
Hahaha.... he just needs to figure out better overdrive gearing for the hamster wheel stuffed full of worms....
Dont think I've used my B&D
Dont think I've used my B&D worm drive for a couple of years at least, too heavy for me anymore, I like the plastic Skil saws, nice and light - and they are only about $1 at garage sales, so a burnout is no problem <G>
Use the 8" Makita SW for most heavier work rather thant he worm drive.
Speaking of worms, one of the grandkids HS class had a lecture where the prof showed them a worm left in a tray with tobacco - it died.
Next he left a worm in Grey Goose vodka, it died. Then in Thunderbird, that worm died also. He also put the worm in a cup of chocolate, and that worm even died.
Finally, he put a worm in a nice bed of broccoli and cauliflower, and the worm thrived - there were even a few more worms after a few days.
So, prof asked GD what did that show? -
Says she:
"You eat broccoli and cauliflower and you'll get worms; but, drink vodka and thyunderbird, eat chocolate, and smoke a stogie once in awhile and you'll never have worms!
You know how old that line is? It was already old when Tommy Kirk used it in "The Absent-Minded Professor" in 1961.
So, what have you decided?
I own a Fuego, plus Skill 77, Bosch, DeWalt and Makita framing saws. For general framing I normally use the Makita or Bosch. The Skill is set up for HardiPlank. The DeWalt is up on the boat.
The Fuego has a nice feature set, but is a bit light for the job site. I gave it a tryout on a roofing job where we had to cut a lot of ply. I was gang cutting sheets on the stack and found it a bit skittery. Wound up using the Bosch, cuting five sheets at a go. The worm drive framing saws are heavier (always get the Mg model). The handle is behind the blade. They track better.
If you are a homeowner and want a decent little saw, it will do. I now use it as the garage saw. It will make most of the cuts that a framing saw will do. It will cut sheet goods (use a shooting board). It may shine up on a roof where you are cuting OSB or ply.
If you are on the Left Coast, the Skill 77M is the "saw that built the West." Look for a good reconditioned model. They will last for decades.
Skil Mag 77
I own one saw and do everything from rough framing to cutting doors to height to miter cutting sheet goods with a shooting board. I have a few blades to change out for whatever need I might encounter. It might be heavier than some care for but more than makes it up in versatility and accuracy. Like another poster said, it's more a matter of technique and skill than the saw but I still like my wormdrive over anything else I've used through the years. The only sidewinder I've found I liked was a left handed PC. I like seeing my blade without having to lean over the stupid thing trying to make an accurate cut.
I own several of the Ridgid tools and i am pleased with all the tools that i own. I dont currently own the particular saw that you are talking about. I do know that this saw is called a framing saw because it was designed to be lightweight giving it the ability to be used all day on a framing site. So to answer to you would be that this saw we be sufficient for all the applications that you would need it for. But if your are looking to do a lot of trim and ripping sheets of plywood i would recommend a Festool track saw. I hope that this advice helps you out.
A circular saw is a circular saw, changing to an appropriate blade should enable you to cut whatever you want. Balance, power, durability, cord length etc are the features I expect to be lacking in a cheaper saw.
Foiled Again!
I read through this thread just achin' for a fight but was surprised to see that there wasn't a FOG brain Festool advocate to make a suggestion for a TS55 saw. No luck there but sisyphus' quote "A circular saw is a circular saw" proved applicable enough.
Not that I don't like the saw/rail system but I was working on a metal roof last week and had to make some angled cuts so I made my own saw guide to do so. It worked great and cost me $0. I thought to myself how I couldn't imagine anyone owning a Festool saw&guide to have the coconuts to attack corrugated metal with their precious green machine. Then next week I will be R&R'ing a shingled roof (BTW, I am not a roofer). I went yesterday and cut back part of the overhang in anticipation for a facia detail in the project; using my circular saw to easily chop through the shingles, plywood, some nails and drip edge. Again I had to snicker to myself imagining what a Festool saw owner would do. What if you wanted to accurately cut a skylight opening out of an already shingled roof? Any track saw users up for that? HA, HA.
So is a circular saw just a circular saw? or is it worth having specialized saws?
Personally, I could see having an even smaller/lighter circular saw like the Fuego for framing (just enough to cut 2x) used in conjunction with a larger saw like a big 10" Milwaukee that could cut 4x's. A trim saw like a Festool t55 for cabinets and countertops - but nothing like the PC trim saw, I've used that and hated it. Someday maybe even a real work worthy battery version.
For now I have a Milwaukee sidewinder (the one with the adjustable handle) and use it for everything; changing the blades for different tasks - maybe taping over the dirty foot and scraping out the shingle poop before using it to cut out cabinet parts or trim down doors.
DC