The plumbers arrived today to install the new sewer and water line to the house I am building. They had to cut into the street and when they found the sewer line it was only 3’7″ from the top of the asphalt. the house is about 135′ away. My sewer line would have to be about 2′ below ground where it goes under the curb. The city (small city) crew and city engineer spent several hours looking it over and later in the evening they were back to run a camara through the sewer. The mayor also showed up but wasn’t very talkative when I attempted to make some conversation. The city engineer has told me he personally would like to have the city sewer replaced which would solve the problem but some of the commissioners apparently don’t agree with him and some do. They will hold a city council meeting Monday and discuss what to do. The code here in South Dakota says the sewer lines must be 42″ below grade – I assume to prevent freezing.
I now have to have the 50′ trench in the street filled and wait until Monday to see what they decide to do. I will take pictures before refilling the trench.
Any suggestions on how to deal with this?
There is only one other property (on the other side of the street) which might be impacted by the sewer situation in the future.
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I can hear he city's reasoning now: "We are 43" below grade", grade being where ever they call it. You will have to get your line under the 42" mark. Put in a grinder and a pump.
Yes, I have already heard the city engineer utter those very words.
I don't know how that could work though as the line would still have to be only 2' below the curb in order to have any flow.
yur fondation just got taller...
not to mention new elevated landscaping..
...the front walkway just got shorter?
Your 'plumber' cut the trench BEFORE finding the sewer in the street???. The city probably provided him/her with a map of where, but not how deep.
SOP is to find the sewer BEFORE planning the routing. Most people find the ends they are aiming for before digging.
He did attempt to get the information but this is in the old original part of the town (so no information on depth) and this apparently was installed when sewage was allowed to just flow into the Missouri River about 300' away.
The city checked the elevations at the manhole upstream (7') and downstream (9') and the street drops about 5' in that distance so we assumed it would be about 8' deep.
"The city checked the elevations at the manhole upstream (7') and downstream (9') "
Would the fix be as simple as extending your sewer to one of those points?
If you head to the lowest point you know of, you might be able to get more slope in your pipe. It might cost more money, but it would be better than having a grinder pump IMHO.
It's lonely at the top, but you eat better.
I could go downstream but it would be about another 75-100' of cutting the street which would make this a very expensive project. I'm still hoping the city will replace their line, putting it down where it should be.
Trenching in 75 to 100' of sewer might not be more expensive than putting in a pump. And it sure would be easier to live with.
Strive not to be a success, but rather to be of value. [Einstein]
Yeah, I'd start making provisions for a pump. Plan it so that if/when they fix the sewer you can drop the pump from the plan or remove it if it's already installed (keeping in mind that they may fix this next week or ten years from now). Among other things, this may mean planning so that the sewer trench can be reopened easily without trashing sidewalks, plantings, etc.
How will a pump solve the problem of the my sewer line at some point
having to be within 2' of the surface of the ground exposing it to freezing? We have real winters here in SD and the ground can freeze over 3' down. Pumping would seem an option if it somehow allowed me to avoid the freezing problem.Does the city have any responsiblity to provide sewer access for adjacent property owners? When the main sewer line is not meeting code and it is only 2' below adjacent lots shouldn't they have the responsiblity to make it right? I need some ammo for that upcoming city council meeting.
Well, you can always add a storage lagoon for winter. :)The pipe's not apt to freeze up unless water sits in it for an extended period. You basically have two options:1) Run the pipe below 48" out to just shy of the sewer connection, then have it run uphill.2) Run the pipe high so it slopes down to the sewer connection, but include an air vent so it can drain down. Insulation can be added above the pipe to minimize the chance of freeze-up.