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Closetmaid® shelf-track system

techscribe | Posted in Tools for Home Building on November 22, 2006 12:25pm

I’m planning to install a Closetmaid wire closet system–the modular one with the hang track, not the fixed one where the shelves are attached to the wall. Of course, the standard parts are not the measurements that I need. The salesguy at the store said that they can cut the wire shelves, but I have to cut the hang track and the clothes rods.

They’re not lightweight metal, and I’m not sure which tool to use. The salesguy suggested a hack saw, but if that’s best, what blade density should I get, or should I get the multi-pack and try them all? Or is a different type of saw a better choice?

And BTW, has anyone ever seen a catalog for this system? Their online catalog is impossible. You have to know what you want already because you can see only one part at a time!

Thanks for any help!

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Replies

  1. User avater
    IMERC | Nov 22, 2006 12:38am | #1

    Bolt cutters work well here..

     

    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming

    WOW!!! What a Ride!

    Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

  2. Norman | Nov 22, 2006 12:40am | #2

    I use a sabre (jig) saw with a metal cutting blade.

  3. User avater
    BillHartmann | Nov 22, 2006 01:16am | #3

    These are the best. But it looks like they have all the parts.

  4. KevinH | Nov 22, 2006 01:41am | #4

    I've done a ton of this stuff and really like the system - a couple of thoughts...

    Definitely get a pair of bolt cutters  (they can be the smaller version) as this is the quickest and cleanest way to cut the shelving right where you need it.  Just buy long lengths and cut according to your needs. No matter how much you pre-plan - something will always change once you get going - kinda of precludes getting the shelves cut at the store if your talking about a complex custom job.  Make sure to check the height of the closet (including any base board or trim so that you hang the rail high enough to hang the long verticals without cutting (learned that the hard way).

    The optional rubber caps are cheap and provide a clean end and are worth it because they help prevent clothing snags on the cut wire ends.  Just remember to cut the shelves in the middle of the one inch space so that you have enough of an end to install the cap.  When it comes to the round closet rods, you will have to pull out the hack saw or some power saw with a metal blade (my cut-off saw works great although its a bit overkill).

    BTW - good choice on the system - once you have the hanging rail up, all the shelves and accessories are extremely easy to arrange and re-arrange as your needs change.  I hate the lesser system with all of the angled brackets, etc...  If I can't easily get the pre-punched holes in the hanging rail to align with studs I will usually drill a few of my own to align with studs - just can't get myself to trust the whole system hanging (even partially) from toggle bolts in the drywall.

    Have fun

    1. User avater
      techscribe | Nov 22, 2006 02:08am | #5

      KevinH: Are you suggesting that I use bolt cutters for the hang track? Seems like they would collapse the shape and bend the metal.  The hang track profile is boxy, kind of like this:

      ____|    _|||||    _|___|

      Thanks for the tips on cutting the other pieces. It's not a complicated design, but still I'll definitely cut the shelves myself rather than have the store do it.

      1. User avater
        IMERC | Nov 22, 2006 02:17am | #6

        metal cutting blade for a jic saw... 

        Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->

        WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->

        Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!

      2. RichMast | Nov 22, 2006 06:13am | #9

        Like Kevin said, don't be afraid to drill extra hanging holes to line up with studs.  Often have to do that at the ends to catch corner studs.  Cut the track with a jig saw with metal cutting blade, 24 tpi is probably good, 18 or 32 would work.  If you don't have one, a hacksaw with same tpi blade will work.  You may have to cut more than one piece across the back to get them to line up with studs.

        if you can line up the verticals with studs it is easiest to screw them in.  most of the time you can get the layout to work that way.  if not, plastic anchors are okay since they aren't holding any weight.

        Bolt cutters are definitely the easiest for cutting shelves.  Jig or hack saws will also work, but slower.  Be careful measuring, the shelves will only clip into the supports when the supports are aligned between the wires, so you need to measure from where the shelf will be when it is clipped in. Sorry if that wasn't clear, try it out and you'll see how it lines up.

        Hope this helps.  Rich.

        Edited 11/21/2006 10:19 pm ET by RichMast

    2. masiman | Nov 25, 2006 01:19am | #14

      +1 on the bolt cutters for shelving and jigsaw/sawzall/hacksaw for track.

      I have done ~10 closets with this system.  First one with just a hacksaw.  I bought bolt cutters the next day.

      A good thing to do is to redo the walls while you have the closet cleared out.  Patch any holes.  Get a quart or gallon gloss, gloss, semi-gloss, eggshell (in that order of preference) of oops paint from your paint store of choice .  Prime the patches.  Paint on.  The gloss helps brighten up the space.  Plus you will likely never empty that space out again until you move so do it now.  The patching and painting add about a day to the job, mostly waiting for the paint to dry.  You could do 3-4 closets in a weekend.  Time consuming part is unloading and loading the closet.

      If you are worried about the load you will put on the system, after you are confident of the setup you have, put a screw  or two into each vertical rail through a stud.  Makes it less adjustable but can give you peace of mind.

  5. rwjiudice | Nov 22, 2006 03:29am | #7

    My contractor installed a "wire" type system in my new home's large walk-in closet several years ago. The type installed (don't know the brand) used plastic "clips" screwed into the studs, then the shelving was put in the clips which wrapped around the wire and clipped to themselves, holding the shelving.

    About two years later, about 2am, ONE of those miserable B@#$%rd clips apparently lost its grip. Lose 1, lose 2,  lose 2, lose 3........ like dominos those #$%^ all let loose.

    You can't IMAGINE

    1) the noise of an entire closet falling to the floor at 2am and

    2)what the mess looks like and

    3)How long it took to sloooowly pick up everything.

    Next day I went to Lowes, found the type of clips that straddle the wire and srewed each one into the studs.

    Good luck !!

    Dick J

  6. reinvent | Nov 22, 2006 04:00am | #8

    If you do a fair amount of metal cutting during the year this saw is the cats meow. Cuts thru angle iron, threaded rod, pipe, you name it. And it is a clean cool cut, no burs or burning like abrasive cut off saws.

    http://www.amazon.com/Hitachi-CD14F-Horsepower-14-Inch-Machine/dp/B0000614UM

  7. DanH | Nov 22, 2006 06:21am | #10

    A hacksaw will work.  In general, with a hacksaw, choose a blade that puts at least 2 teeth on the workpiece at its thinnest -- any coarser and the blade grabs, any finer and it's slower going.  It doesn't hurt to have an assortment, as you may decide to use a different blade once you see how it's going.

    Or a sabre saw or Sawzall will work -- same basic rule on blade choice.  Or you can use a cutoff wheel in a angle grinder or even chucked into a drill.

    But there's absolutely nothing wrong with using a hacksaw, if you don't mind the exercise.

    People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck
    1. User avater
      techscribe | Nov 22, 2006 09:52am | #12

      Well, I used a hacksaw and a 24T carbon steel blade to cut the hang track. While it wasn't exactly like cutting hot butter, it was quick and efficient enough for me. Smoothed off the edge with a file and it was done! The ceiling's only 8 ft, so I intend to level the track with the top framing member. The outer standards align with the corner studs, and I'll use anchors with the middle standards.

      The best part? Container Store put together the same basic design using their system. They've got a 'platinum' wire system that looks really hot compared with the white wire. They cut all the pieces and package it up for you--you just bring it home and install it. I was going to go with it, but decided not to be lazy and to do it myself although the Closetmaid site is a nightmare. Well, not being lazy is going to save me about $110! That will more than pay for the coat closet and a six-pack ...

      Thanks to all for your tips and suggestions.

      Edited 11/22/2006 3:13 am by techscribe

      1. Norman | Nov 22, 2006 05:59pm | #13

        I have found Closet Maid to be vastly cheeper than the Container Store. I only go there when I want something they have that I can't find anywhere else. Which happens fairly often. Not cheep, but the Container Store can be a real interesting place.

  8. DanH | Nov 22, 2006 06:25am | #11

    FWIW, I used the system for our utility room and found it to be pretty good.  Put a lot of care into getting the top horizontal channel mounted level at the right height, and securely fastened.  Drill more holes in it if necessary so you can anchor to every stud.  After that the system's pretty much foolproof.

    People never lie so much as before an election, during a war, or after a hunt. --Otto von Bismarck

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