Replies

1. 
   Brickie | Mar 23, 2009 07:50pm | #1

   Is it glass block?

   Sorry, I couldn't resist.  Seriously though, you're saying that you see - what, a ghosting type image when viewed from the side?

1. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 23, 2009 07:57pm | #2

   what i see is exposed rebar, right at the surface. Wondering how long before the wall is laying in a heap in my yard.ML

1. 
   McMark | Mar 23, 2009 08:00pm | #3

   Can you post a photo?  It doesn't sound like CMU, or else the block is gone, and you are seeing the remants of the bond beam

2. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 23, 2009 08:13pm | #4

   heres a couple of the pictures.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/Mntngoat/Home%20Improvement/IMG_2222.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/Mntngoat/Home%20Improvement/IMG_2221.jpghttp://img.photobucket.com/albums/v648/Mntngoat/Home%20Improvement/IMG_2218.jpg I'll be better pics tonightML

1. 
   McMark | Mar 23, 2009 08:35pm | #7

   I can't make out what I'm seeing there.  Is the bar poking out at mortar joints?

1. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 23, 2009 08:41pm | #8

   yes the rebar is visible at the morter joints, as if the rebar is pushing out the moter.ML

2. 
   YesMaam27577 | Mar 23, 2009 08:41pm | #9

   Looks to me like you need to re-point that area. Maybe something caused some minor movement, popping the mortar out in the reinforced joint.

   Politics is the antithesis of problem solving.

3. 
   davidmeiland | Mar 23, 2009 08:29pm | #5

   I'm confused, isn't rebar supposed to be run thru the core of the block? Got any photos?

1. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 23, 2009 08:34pm | #6

   exactly, why is is at the surface of the block, visible at the morter joints that are broken.ML

2. 
   CheckerContracting | Mar 23, 2009 09:15pm | #10

   I was confused by the rebar part of this ... are you talking the horizontal reinforcing wire? A bit of semantics I know, but when I think rebar I think of #4 or #5 rods vertically in the cells. Horizontal wire is layed in the bed joints.

   It looks to me that when the original wall was built they placed the horziontal wire too close to the face of the units. Over time the bed joints have degraded and the mortar has fallen away. It's not a critical issue, but if the wire is far enough from the face you should be able to tuck point the joints to dress it back up again.

   Shawn

   -------------------------------------------------------------------------------

   Checker Contracting - SE Michigan

1. 
   Brickie | Mar 23, 2009 09:34pm | #11

   Confirmed - it's what's called "K-web"  The idea is that it can substitute for typical bond beam reinforcement by being laid in the bed joints of the block.

   We masons hate it, for the reason shown in the homeowner's photos. 

1. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 23, 2009 09:44pm | #13

   Thanks Gentleman, There are also several area's where there is cracking at the H- block columns. Not to mention the eroding of the block as can eb seen in a couple of the pictures? We are anticipating that the wall will need to be replaced and at this time we would like to have it built taller, Typically will an engineer need to be hired to order to determine the footing required for a 8' wall?ML

1. 
   KFC | Mar 23, 2009 10:19pm | #14

   Also known as "ladder tie".

   I wouldn't expect it to collapse just based on that...  I'd re-point it. 

   k

2. 
   theslateman | Mar 23, 2009 09:34pm | #12

   Very good Shawn. Thats the same as I was thinking after looking at the pictures.

3. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Mar 24, 2009 06:24am | #15

   Dur-O-Wall - It's rusting.   Rust expands.

   Also, wind load on the wood fence would tend to put stresses on the wall that could open things up too.

   Jeff

   
   

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   Edited 3/23/2009 11:26 pm ET by Jeff_Clarke

1. 
   calvin | Mar 24, 2009 03:58pm | #16

   There seems to be dark arcs in those block wall sections.  Is the cap allowing water into the cores of the block?  If you go to pointing the joints you might have a look on top and take care of that too.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 24, 2009 06:06pm | #17

   It is back filled on the reverse side of the wall, with soil and crushed chip base for the utility co, service road.

1. 
   popawheelie | Mar 24, 2009 06:29pm | #18

   Unless it was designed for it the wall can not have anything against it on one side.

   Just about anything on one side will push it over eventually.

   If it is designed for it, it is a retaining wall. Very different and much more expensive.

1. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 24, 2009 07:36pm | #19

   Yep agreed, when the revised this service rd, they raised it up about 2.5' it is cut back so it is not directly up against the block on the back side, but since all the panels between the columns are loose, I can rock each section as if it's loose. I think time has taken it's toll on it, and will probably need to be replaced soon.
   afraid I'll have to get a engineer involved, ML

2. 
   KFC | Mar 24, 2009 08:27pm | #20

   I'm not trying to talk you out of anything, but I guess I don't fully understand the impulse to re-do it.  Is it in a very visible area, or beside (over!) a children's playzone?  Or are you really really into the extra height?

   I don't dispute that it sounds less than optimal.  Just kind of curious.

   If the soil behind is graded away so it's not loading it, what force are you concerned about rocking it over?  High winds?

   How's the drainage?  I'd be tempted to core a few weep holes and let it ride, but I don't think I see the whole picture.

   k

3. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 24, 2009 08:49pm | #21

   K, The Mrs is just concerned about the integrity, The wood extension at the top needs to come down and be replaced at a minimum, I could re point some of the sections, where the mortar is missing. Think there is any issue with removing the split face at the top and adding 3 courses? I know it will add weight to the wall but need to replace the wood anyway and she would like something to looks better.ML

4. 
   KFC | Mar 24, 2009 09:21pm | #22

   K, The Mrs is just concerned about the integrity

   Ah.  Say no more. 

   (And, I can see why She's concerned about the integrity.  I question the integrity too, I just probably wouldn't get off my tired/lazy butt and do anything about it unless it was really endangering something.  But then, my wife is eternally frustrated with my approach to maintaining our home...)

   Well, given that motivation, I can see why you're looking at re-doing the whole shebang.  It'd be a chunk of change, but could be worth it...

   I'd hesitate to add more block to the top off an unstable wall.  If I did, I'd want to make my the first of my new runs into a bond beam. 

   I don't know what code issues you'd be up against, it'd be structurally a whole different animal at that point. 

   k

5. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 24, 2009 09:28pm | #23

   Thanks K

6. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 25, 2009 09:06pm | #24

   Her'e's  more pics  think teh crack on teh column is to be concerned with?

    

    

   
7. 
   KFC | Mar 25, 2009 09:39pm | #25

   Yeah, that vertical crack is a little troubling.  What is happenning to the run of wall at that column?  Does it appear to bow in or out? or settle?  Is it possible the re-grading of the road behind damaged the wall? 

   If that was a foundation wall, I'd be very concerned.  But if it's simply a visual/sound wall, less so.  What is the property like just inside the wall?  Is it a highly used area?

   I guess the parallel that comes to my mind is old brick chimneys here in the Bay Area.  If the falling brick is going to endanger people or valuable property, I'd strongly encourage removal (or serious bracing). 

   But when it's like my chimney (I can rock it with one hand), which is above an unused side yard and whose firebox is well away from any sitting/sleeping or play areas inside, I just figure I'll be picking up bricks someday.  (My wife even seems ok with that.)

   k

    

    

    

8. 
   MSLiechty | Mar 25, 2009 09:52pm | #27

   the yard slopes from the house to the wall uphill! Makes sense right? Not sure who did the final grade, but at the wall grade is 2' higher than at the slab 44' FEET AWAY.The wall is not bowed out, that I can see. Need to get in touch with the city and utility company and see how they will fill about me disturbing there service road when I replace the wall.ML

   Edited 3/25/2009 2:53 pm by MSLiechty

9. 
   KFC | Mar 25, 2009 10:19pm | #28

   the yard slopes from the house to the wall uphill! Makes sense right? Not sure who did the final grade, but at the wall grade is 2' higher than at the slab 44' FEET AWAY.

   The wall is not bowed out, that I can see.

   Ok, I imagine the lot slopes with the general lay of the land, from the wall to (and past) the house? 

   If the wall isn't bowed in or out at that crack, or settling noticeably, then I wonder what force caused it.  Have you peeked at the other side for back-hoe marks? 

   Or could have been just seasonal movement.  Are you on clay?

   FWIW, engineers calculate the ultimate strength of concrete beams assuming the concrete will have cracks, and the tension load is being carried solely by the steel.  So a crack, while disconcerting, may not imply impending failure in itself.

   But I still get your desire to have it re-done. 

   While you're checking with the muni, maybe find out if there's any chance they repair or replace walls along their right of way which, ahem, seemed fine right up to them re-grading their service road.  It's a long shot...

   Ok, I'm going to try to get some work done today.  Good luck.

   k

    

10. 
    frammer52 | Mar 25, 2009 09:39pm | #26

    Much better picts.

    I might be tempted to cover the wall with a product, can't remember the name, that is morter and fibreglass that can tie the whole wall together.

    I saw a video of the product, they drove a truck into it and the wall survived!

2. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Mar 26, 2009 07:40am | #29

   If it was a traffic road where they apply salt in the winter (I see you're in SoCal - I would suspect salty water runoff corroding the Dur-O-Wall - it expands and literally lifts the block up, breaking the mortar bond.

   But since you're not likely subject to freezing, it was the raising of the road that likely added lateral pressure to the wall, along with wind load on the wood.

   Jeff

   Edited 3/26/2009 12:41 am ET by Jeff_Clarke