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Sorry about the length of this question…trying to be thorough….My home is an early 1900s Victorian, utilizing balloon framing in good solid condition. I’d like to finish the third floor, and much of it has adequate headroom. One section though, is low at about 7ft at the peak. That section is 13 feet wide. The second floor ceiling joists are an actual 2″ x 7″, 16″OC, attached to the wall studs, which are an actual 2″ x 4″. the roof rafters attach to the top plate, which is 14″ above the attic floor (top of the joists) Roof rafter dimensions are 2″ x 5″, 24″OC (where did they come up with these sizes? Perhaps these were ripped down to 5″ to match the 2″ x 6″ ridge?)The roof load is nominal: asphalt shingles.
I have been considering the concept of raising the entire section 18″, which would match the rest of the roof peaks, resulting in a windfall of usable space and headroom. I see several areas of trouble, the most significant being the need to add some form of resistance to the roof’s tendancy to spread, as the joint between the old top plate and the new 18″ wall section will most assuredly be a weak point. (I have considered eliminating the old top plate and sistering the studs, but is 18″ of sistering adequate?) And as collar ties will soak up valuable headroom at best, I’m looking for other options. Perhaps fabricated steel reinforcements at the critical section would be partial solution? Also, while the older full dimension lumber is stronger than a comparative peice of current nominaly sized lumber, the whole structure seems somewhat inadequate. What is my best direction here, or am I opening too many cans of worms
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If I'm hearing you correctly: I'd put a beam supported either by posts (or beam pockets built into the end walls)down the middle and place my rafters on top of it, that takes the load off the walls, you could probably build on top of the existing wall plates if you did it this way also, BUT I'm not there to see it so this is a suggestion only.
*You said inadequate when giving your description of the current framing, I would have someone look at it first. It does sound as your solution in the end will be a structured ridge as Jim said. Good luck.
*Based on your description, I'd agree with Jim; structural ridge with posts & proper bearing. I'd think that 18" of sistering would be better than none- although with a structrual ridge, the load vector will be vertical. All the same, you still have a hinge at that point (even with careful nailing of the sheathing). You wouldn't be able to get those collar ties low enough to do any good anyway.....Sam
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Sorry about the length of this question...trying to be thorough....My home is an early 1900s Victorian, utilizing balloon framing in good solid condition. I'd like to finish the third floor, and much of it has adequate headroom. One section though, is low at about 7ft at the peak. That section is 13 feet wide. The second floor ceiling joists are an actual 2" x 7", 16"OC, attached to the wall studs, which are an actual 2" x 4". the roof rafters attach to the top plate, which is 14" above the attic floor (top of the joists) Roof rafter dimensions are 2" x 5", 24"OC (where did they come up with these sizes? Perhaps these were ripped down to 5" to match the 2" x 6" ridge?)The roof load is nominal: asphalt shingles.
I have been considering the concept of raising the entire section 18", which would match the rest of the roof peaks, resulting in a windfall of usable space and headroom. I see several areas of trouble, the most significant being the need to add some form of resistance to the roof's tendancy to spread, as the joint between the old top plate and the new 18" wall section will most assuredly be a weak point. (I have considered eliminating the old top plate and sistering the studs, but is 18" of sistering adequate?) And as collar ties will soak up valuable headroom at best, I'm looking for other options. Perhaps fabricated steel reinforcements at the critical section would be partial solution? Also, while the older full dimension lumber is stronger than a comparative peice of current nominaly sized lumber, the whole structure seems somewhat inadequate. What is my best direction here, or am I opening too many cans of worms