Replies

1. 
   DonCanDo | Jan 30, 2006 03:24pm | #1

   I've used an 18 gauge finish nailer on composite (plastic) trim.  It worked just fine, but I'm not a fan of plastic trim.  It was supplied, so I worked with what I was given.  I doubt if it would've worked on shoe molding without cracking.  The stuff is so cheap, why not experiment?

   I think you'll be fine with the paster too.  Finish nailers probably cause less vibration to the walls than hammering, even with a pilot hole.

   -Don

2. 
   FastEddie | Jan 30, 2006 04:56pm | #2

   Glue to trim in place.  Get a small tub of the adhesive that's used for rubber base.

    

    

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   Doc | Jan 31, 2006 01:29pm | #3

   Thanks for the tips.  Both of those ideas are things I was considering.  I may cut a small piece and test the use of a finish gun inside the closet where it won't matter if something doesn't work out.  Also, I had thought of glueing it as well.  Hopefully the combination works out.  I'll give it all a try this weekend.  Thanks again.

1. 
   Matt | Jan 31, 2006 02:11pm | #4

   Just out of curiosity, when you say "composite trim" exactly what do you mean?  Plastic, wood/plastic combination, MDF, or what?  Composite is kind of an ambiguous word...

1. 
   Doc | Jan 31, 2006 03:53pm | #5

   I'm sorry, I thought I specified that in my original post.  It's plastic.  I bought it at Home Depot.  I've seen the trim that feels like styrofoam, but this is a fairly heavy and dense plastic.  Hope that helps. 

1. 
   csnow | Jan 31, 2006 05:32pm | #6

   It's, probably the "Marley Mouldings" stuff, or "Royal Mouldings" is their new name.

   Good stuff. It will not split or crack.  It can sometime leave a bit of distorted plastic proud of the face, which can be cut off flush with a razor blade or utility knife.

   If you are not painting it, consider using glue so you do not have to patch the holes.

   View Image

3. 
   rasconc | Jan 31, 2006 06:38pm | #7

   I use the Loctite "Powergrab" adhesive.  Then caulk the top with "White Lightning" on base, top and bottom on cove, etc.  A couple of 18 ga nails usually helps.

   
   

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   Edited 1/31/2006 10:40 am ET by rasconc

1. 
   Doc | Feb 06, 2006 05:17am | #9

   Thanks for all the tips.  I used Loctite, and everything went perfectly.  One more step closer to finishing this project that I've been dragging my feet on.  Thanks again.

4. 
   mike4244 | Jan 31, 2006 09:19pm | #8

   Locate the studs on the wall and nail the trim with any nail gun.I use a 15ga for base,18ga for smaller stuff,exactly like it was wood. Some plastic trim the joints can be glued together with a special cement.Azec is one brand. If  there is a particular glue that is specified,use it, don't substitute.Finish nails for pneumatics are 2 1/2" maximum length.If the plaster and gyp board behind it are 1 1/2" or so thick and your trim is 3/4" thick,then hand nail with 16d casing nails. I use a nail spinner for this. The spinner will turn the nail about 3/4 of the way in, hammer and set the nail the rest of the way .

   mike

5. 
   Cash | Feb 06, 2006 05:53am | #10

   When we install solid surface material, and paneling sheets that cannot have any holes, we use a good adhesive, and hot melt glue to hold it until the adhesive sets. Might try it on scrap first to avoid melting your trim.