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Being a homeowner, and a guy who gets a woody around power tools; I’ve been eyeing Compound Mitre Saws for the last little while.
I almost had my Father convinced to go halves on one with me until he heard what I was looking for, then he told me I was crazy and had the thinking all wrong, and ought to do everything with a Circ Saw and some fixturing.
Anyway, here’s what I’m thinking and If I’m wasting my cash on a saw let me know what you think,
I am looking at framing a shed for my backyard – use saw for cutting trusses with 2X6 chords and 2X4 everything else.
Building cute picket fence to keep Wife happy – use saw for making cute pointy pickets out of 1X6
General trimwork around the house etc.
Now here’s what Dad Says… Them saws aren’t for cutting through anything heavier ‘n baseboards and trim. You can’t set up a workspace that will hold a 10 ft board well enough to get an accurate cut. 2X6’s and 2X8’s are too heavy for them saws.
I want to get a Makita Double Compound with Sliding Rails ($750). He thinks a Black and Decker single mitre no slide ($175) is all thats justifiable in these saws.
So who’s out of their tree????
Replies
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There have been a number of posts on this including a pretty good one a few weeks ago. You can do a search of Breaktime archives and you will find many articles - unfortunately they start with 1998 articles so it will take you a while to work up to the recent one.
Before you do that, however, you might want to check the review articles at the Journal of Light Construction. Check out the "Compound Mitre Saw" and "Sliding Compound Mitre Saw" reviews at:
http://www.jlconline.com/jlc/archive/tools/
*Chris, this is from a dumb carpenter so take it for what it's worth. With lite use, you could use it for both but I wouldn't use it for both. Cutting framing members with a precision tool doesn't do it any favors. You could certainly do what you mention with a circular saw and scribed pattern or a jig. If you got the money and want something to add to the tool collection, then by all means, have at it. Set yourself up a long knockdown bench to hold the work and proceed slowly through the framing members. Be very careful of bind, there's alot of power in that saw and it'll jump right at you.
*Thanks Casey and CalvinI am a Machinist by trade, and so I am a Thousandth of an inch perfection freak when it comes to seeing things fit right. I agree with what you're saying Calvin about using a precision tool for rough work, Maybe I oughta just make up jigs for framing and go rent a saw for a couple days for the lighter stuff. I rented a Hitachi to put in T&G Panelling on a staircase and was really impressed by the way the saw sped up the work and held its cuts. I thought the versatility and ease of use on these saws made them a do-all and a pretty excellent addition to anyone's tool assortment.If the larger models won't handle the heavier framing cuts without losing their accuracy, what is being used on jobsites to speed up jobs involving angled walls etc??
*chris,a compound mitre will speed up some jobs like siding and trim and slow down others like framing, so unless your framing or trimming with 10"lumber i would think that a smaller saw is what you need. plus it's the type of blade that can make a big difference. buy a new table saw with the money you save.just a thought. cc
*I use my 12" compound miter saw every day for framing, trim, and anything else that is not too wide to fit. Framing members cut quickly, accurately, and do absolutely NOTHING to mess with the accuracy of the saw. I have a radial arm saw in my shop, but when my miter saw is at the shop with me instead of on a job site, I'll use it BEFORE I use the radial arm saw.Setting up a table or roller stand for holding the workpiece is a breeze. Good miter saws were made to handle the rough lumber, thin stock, trim stock, etc... with ease, and with plenty of power. Blade choice is also important.Go for the miter saw. It will add a very versatile tool to your collection, and you will never regret the decision, so long as you buy a good one. Check them ALL out and buy what you feel comfortable with.Just a thought...James DuHamel
*I Agree with Mr DuHamel. I have two of the Hitachi 8" compound sliders and they have both held up tremendously. One has a commercial fence and extension table, the other is homemade. With a 24 tooth blade they have both been used for heavy framing. Swap in a 60 tooth trim blade and they will both cut near invisible trim cuts. Mind you I do not drop muddy 2X12's on them, but they will cut them fine when they are clean.
*Go with what James said. Don't hog the saw (let the blade cut without forcing it)and it will cut anything, keep the good one sharp for trim.
*I've long been in the skil saw can almost do it all camp. Laughed at guys dragging every stick in a frame job over to a chop saw. Shook my head in disbelief at carpenters that couldn't rip a board without a table saw. That being said i've come over to using my sliding compound for small framing jobs. Last week i crosscut and ripped almost all the cuts pieces of sheeting on a 25 sq. shop roof on the table saw. The table saw was in the center of the roofless shop so cuts could be handed up through the purlins.The chicken coop this spring was almost exclusively cut with the 12"SCMS and the table saw. Bottom line a good carp should be able to cut accurately enough with whatever saw is at hand. That being said, the first saw to really master should be the skil saw.Like James i wouldn't worry about wearing out a SCMS on frame lumber. If tools like good knives, shiny trucks, and accurate saws are to expensive or pretty to use they are worthless to me.I think Chris needs a SCMS anyway they are so nice to use everyone should have 1 or 2.joed
*Thanks for all the input. Maybe I aint so foolish drooling on these things after all.Chris
*Chris if you don't buy it now you'll still be wanting it.I recently got a 10" Makita slider and it is a pleasure to use.Set up is important.Take a little time to build a table for itwith a fence. Skip
*By-the-bye, I see that DeWalt has released a new double-bevel 12" CMS (i.e. non-slider) that has an offset motor and can cut 6 5/8" deep and a 10" that can cut 6" deep. A lot lighter, less expensive, and probably hardier, than a SCMS. Anyone seen one yet ?
*Have you a Home Depot, Bldrs Square or Lowes near you? Check out a cheap ($100 or so) 8" miter saw and save the slider compound for tight work. I have the Dewalt 12" sliding saw, and it's marvelouslly powerful and precise; I wouldn't use it for rough work.
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Being a homeowner, and a guy who gets a woody around power tools; I've been eyeing Compound Mitre Saws for the last little while.
I almost had my Father convinced to go halves on one with me until he heard what I was looking for, then he told me I was crazy and had the thinking all wrong, and ought to do everything with a Circ Saw and some fixturing.
Anyway, here's what I'm thinking and If I'm wasting my cash on a saw let me know what you think,
I am looking at framing a shed for my backyard - use saw for cutting trusses with 2X6 chords and 2X4 everything else.
Building cute picket fence to keep Wife happy - use saw for making cute pointy pickets out of 1X6
General trimwork around the house etc.
Now here's what Dad Says... Them saws aren't for cutting through anything heavier 'n baseboards and trim. You can't set up a workspace that will hold a 10 ft board well enough to get an accurate cut. 2X6's and 2X8's are too heavy for them saws.
I want to get a Makita Double Compound with Sliding Rails ($750). He thinks a Black and Decker single mitre no slide ($175) is all thats justifiable in these saws.
So who's out of their tree????