Replies

1. 
   frammer52 | Aug 22, 2009 05:52pm | #1

   If you are using more than one level of block, spread it out among the levels!

1. 
   dhbret | Aug 22, 2009 06:09pm | #2

   I'm using the dry stack, surface bonding cement method so I wouldn't be able to ease it up with each layer. The block wall is only going to be three high to get it above grade. Thanks for your help. David

1. 
   whitedogstr8leg | Aug 22, 2009 06:40pm | #4

    IF you have access to a saw for the blocks, lay the first block AT the LOWEST corner.  place a few blocks along the wall area all the way to the next corner and then chalk a line (level, that is) on those blocks.  cut away above the chalk-line, flip the blocks over and mortar them in place, checking for level.  First course is now "flat" and ready for the next course of block, un-cut.

2. 
   RalphWicklund | Aug 22, 2009 06:40pm | #5

   You do know that you start at the corners to lay up block, right?Set up your transit, bed the high spot first with minimal mortar and then do the other 3 corners, bringing them up to the necessary level. Place your string between the corners and set the rest of the first course. Then dry stack.Or, forget the dry stack and do it the conventional way.How are you anchoring your block to the slab? Vertical rebar? Fill all cells? Are you required to place horizontal bar in the top course, tied to the vertical?

2. 
   BoJangles | Aug 22, 2009 06:36pm | #3

   First off....If you actually have a regular transit that you are using....it's possible that the transit could be totally out of adjustment.  They are the most easily misaligned instrument you could use.  Be sure it's accurate.  Look in the owner's manual.  It will tell you how to check it.

   If your slab is that far off, the installer must be a total hack!

   You need to lay blocks with mortar between them and make up for the errors in the slab.  Lay all the corners first, to the right height, and then string between them as a guide when laying the blocks.

   You're lucky you have three rows to work with.

1. 
   dhbret | Aug 22, 2009 07:19pm | #7

   I'm checking the transit now. Hope its out and not my concrete contractor. I'd rather apologize to him. I'm going to cheat on the stud lengths to level out the top plate and all will be good. After 35 years doing woodworking for a living I'll have my own space to work and enjoy the fellowship of my woodworking friends. Thanks for all the help. David

3. 
   brownbagg | Aug 22, 2009 07:15pm | #6

   cut the block
4. 
   shelternerd | Aug 22, 2009 08:12pm | #8

   you aint building a piano, just a garage to hold the truck to haul the piano. don't sweat it being an inch out of level. just adjust the door jambs to be plumb and run with it.

   m

   ------------------

   "You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."

5. 
   Matt | Aug 22, 2009 08:46pm | #9

   No slab is perfect but I'm usually expecting to within a 1/2".  1" is excessive.  Like others said, cut the block.  Above, White Dog has some good instructions.  Bricklayers call it "hoggin-out".  I had a house footer that was out of level 4" !!! about a year ago.  I wanted the footer guys to install another 8" or so of concrete on top to fix it.  Would have saved me a whole course of block too.  :-)    They said they would rather pay the brickies to "hog it out".  I'm sure the brickies were happy for the extra work - the way the economy is these days.

   Or you could just go with it as SN suggested above.  I'd be looking to take a few $$ out of the concrete guy's check though...  as long as you get the doors correct, no one will ever know - except you and the 10,000 of us here on the Internet :-)  Oh - and you might mention it to your gutter guy :-)

   Or maybe the concrete guy will lend you a diamond masonry saw (same as concrete saw) for a few days to fix his F-up....  Seems like a reasonable deal to me. 

   BTW - not to be a smart a$$ but the time to use your transit (laser level in modern times) is to check the forms (etc)  before the concrete is placed.

1. 
   bobbymagee | Jan 09, 2021 01:08pm | #10

   So anything over 4" I should just pour like 6" more on top of the footer and level it?