Replies

1. 
   PaulBinCT | Dec 06, 2008 11:58pm | #1

   Not sure how they define not of kitchen quality, but you surely will want a very smooth finish to aid cleanup.  If you haven't done one before I'd sure look into one of the books by Chang or Rhodes.  It wouldn't be my first choice, since sauces and greasy BBQ fare will make cleanup even more difficult and staining much more likely.  Sealers have to be reapplied periodically, especially if this will (presumably) be outdoors...

   Hope this helps.

   PaulB

   http://www.makeabettertomorrow.com

   http://www.finecontracting.com

2. 
   Jed42 | Dec 07, 2008 01:28am | #2

   Search "concrete Countertops.  I found it and used it.  It is Sorta difficult, but I thought it was fun.  I added the concrete color while mixing, but I've seen people add it just before screeding.  I used an orbital sander around the form to get all the air out. 

   Just google it, you'll find it.

   No Coffee No Workee!
3. 
   ted | Dec 07, 2008 01:48am | #3

   I've done a few tops before and so has Waters that posts here every once in a while. As mentioned not sure it would be the best choice around a potentially greasy work zone. You'll want to apply an epoxy or impenetrable finish that no doubt will have to be reapplied periodically and have to be able to withstand UV and the weather.

1. 
   timc | Dec 07, 2008 02:24am | #4

   With the Kitchen adjacent to the BBQ area the countertop would not be used for food preparation and any food put on it would be on plates etc. However, there may be spills (ketchup etc) or grease from the BBQ itself that just needs to be wiped up. They have decided they want concrete so I'm looking for an inexpensive solution that can be sealed. If it gets stained so what, so long as they can keep it clean they'll be happy.

2. 
   JLazaro317 | Dec 07, 2008 02:26am | #5

   You're being paged....John

   J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.

   Indianapolis, In.

    

4. 
   andybuildz | Dec 07, 2008 02:58am | #6

   Here's a BBQ island top I did a few months ago.They didn't want a porous top being they prepare food a lot out there plus they wanted it a bit more ornate and to match the gazillion dollar patio they had done. That BBQ top wasn't cheap!! Probably close to 10K!!! They bought  the tiles. All hand made and those trim tiles were about $50 each!! Don't ask. Was a serious PITA to build for a million reasons one of which was that it was about 90+ deg every day I worked out there that the tiles and Hardie got so hot I could hardly touch them, never mind setting thinset down.

   Use the "slide show" to view it best. http://picasaweb.google.com/andybuildz/BBQTILETOP#

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

1. 
   LeeLamb | Dec 07, 2008 05:57am | #11

   Sweet!  That would look nice alongside my pond.  Now you got me thinking...

1. 
   timc | Dec 07, 2008 06:17am | #12

   All this has been really helpful, much appreciated. I feel like I could take on any job, if I haven't got a clue I just post a question, go back the next day and bs the client

1. 
   timc | Dec 07, 2008 06:19am | #13

   oh, now they want speakers in the brickwork. Where do I start? Suggestions for decent exterior speakers and speaker wire please.

2. 
   woody1777 | Dec 16, 2008 07:54pm | #22

   That is a seriously cool BBQ island !Naive but refreshing !

1. 
   andybuildz | Dec 17, 2008 12:28am | #23

   YEh it is...don't even ask how long that took me. I coulda rebuilt The World Trade Center Towers in the time it took me...lol

    

    

    

   http://www.cliffordrenovations.com

   http://www.ramdass.org

    

5. 
   ponytl | Dec 07, 2008 03:16am | #7

   you have 2 choices  cast in place or  cast it and then place it...  both work... but size is a consideration if you cast it... then place it... you can with little effort get concrete as smooth as any polished stone...  if you can cast it upside down you can get a very slick finish right out of your mold... if you construct or line your mold with lexan or slick formica...  this subject has been addressed many times on this board  so you might do a search for ideas and methods..  it's not hard work and it shouldn't be expensive for you to do... what you charge thats up to you... material wise... a few bucks a SF...

   good luck

   p

6. 
   mikeroop | Dec 07, 2008 04:32am | #8

   Poured mine upside down on plywood covered with plastic then stained with the liquid concrete stain works and looks fine

1. 
   timc | Dec 07, 2008 05:33am | #9

   What about the mix, I'm guessing Ready Mix won't cut it because of the size of the gravel. Is there any mix that comes in a bag that would be suitable for a smooth finish?
   Any suggestions for integral color and sealers?
   Thanks again

1. 
   joeh | Dec 07, 2008 05:52am | #10

   Top left, "advanced search" - concrete countertops will get you way more info than any book out there.

   It's been discussed and dissected here more times than I can count.

   First one was Mongo, about 1997 I think.

   Everything is there and it's free.

   Joe H

2. 
   Waters | Dec 07, 2008 07:02pm | #15

   Looks like you've had plenty of response.

   Ponytl is spot on with all his suggestions.   He and Mongo, also, great contributors to a thread I started "Dirtbag Backyard Concrete Counter Method" which has contained everything you could need, want, or even not care to know about doing your own concrete countertops.

   As to the bagged mix--if you're out for an 'earthy' color you can buy 'crack resistant 4000' quikcrete mix (H depot) which has admix and fiber already in it and is a 'richer' mix.  Use it all the time.  It appears they did change this mix--was 'crack resistant 5000' b4.

   I'll sift thru your other responses and add what I can.

   Pat

   (Oh!  there is is right there...)

   Edited 12/7/2008 11:03 am by Waters

7. 
   danno7x | Dec 07, 2008 07:54am | #14

   Nobody mentioned the "dirtbag concrete countertop" thread here.  I thought it was excelent and will definatly refer to it WHEN I do some at least for myself.  Its a good long thread and as the name implies probably cant achive top results for much less money. Ah here it is for ya  101058.1 

   
   

   ---

   Edited 12/6/2008 11:57 pm ET by danno7x

8. 
   Waters | Dec 07, 2008 07:15pm | #16

   Here's a link to sealers.

   http://www.decosup.com/concrete-countertop-sealer.html

   They sold me a product called "fusion 1" or "fusion 2"

   The common method for sealing cc counters is to use a polymer tile sealer, then wax and polish.

   The above sealers are a more permanent film that is not porous like tile sealer and wax.

   Pat

    

1. 
   timc | Dec 16, 2008 06:22am | #17

   As with all tools there are good ones and bad ones. Does anybody have any recomendations (be specific) for grinding/polishing tools and pads and where did you buy them. I have a 4 1/2" De Walt angle grinder, it isn't a variable speed though, is it good enough or should I invest in a new one
   thanks

1. 
   alwaysoverbudget | Dec 16, 2008 06:59am | #18

   i hit ebay for pads for my granite,they were really pretty cheap.

   if you don't have a variable speed ,no problem go by harbor freight and pick aup a router speed control,about 12.00. plug your grinder in and adjust the speed.if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?

2. 
   Waters | Dec 16, 2008 07:40am | #19

   You must have the variable speed unit, or controller.  Pads are meant to be driven at 3,000rpm or so.

   http://cgi.ebay.com/4-Standard-Diamond-Polishing-Pad-Disc-SET-Granite-Tool_W0QQitemZ190274485410QQihZ009QQcategoryZ46572QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

   Here's a sale for a full set of pads, and the driver.  You wont use anything above that 1000 grit, likely, but very inexpensive. 

1. 
   timc | Dec 16, 2008 08:08am | #20

   Thanks for responding so quickly. I just placed an order. How long do these pads last? It's a very small job (about 18sqft). Will it get me through that?
   What about recomendations for variable speed grinders?
   thanks

1. 
   Waters | Dec 16, 2008 07:20pm | #21

   I'm still using the 1st set of pads I bought three years ago.  The 50 and 500 pads are almost toast.  Very surprised at the durability. I bought mine from a supplier in China tho.  Looks like the same kit to me, but mine didn't come with the driver!

   I'm on my second Makita http://www.amazon.com/Makita-9565CV-5-Inch-Grinder-Variable/dp/B00005Q7BG

   They also have a  model 'wired for wet'  http://www.amazon.com/Makita-PW5001C-4-Inch-Variable-Polisher/dp/B0002HC2HU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1229444131&sr=1-1

   or this thing--I don't have any idea the quality of it  http://www.amazon.com/Secco-Variable-Polisher-Granite-Polishing/dp/B001KAM3K4/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1229444188&sr=1-3

   I like the makita I have--I got it for polishing but used it all the time for other regular grinding applications.  It's nice to have one that isn't blazing at 12,000rmp all the time.  Use it for cutting plaster inside, or whatever when you don't want to blow tons of dust everywhere--dial down the rpm's

   I destroyed the first one cutting concrete block with it after 2 years of countertops. 

2. 
   timc | Dec 17, 2008 07:43am | #24

   The pads that you recomended are 4" and the grinder is 5", are they compatible?
   Thanks again for your advice

3. 
   Waters | Dec 17, 2008 06:47pm | #25

   Yes, the grinder can drive 5" so smaller is no problem.  I use 4&5" interchangeably on it.